rotoflex
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Everything posted by rotoflex
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Team Broom preparation
rotoflex replied to Saltddirk's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
What if you attached a short duct to the oil cooler, just enough to put a piece of mosquito screen over to deflect gravel? You could even use it to turn a corner. It would allow you to even mount it facing downward if that would be safest. -
Freebird wrote: Dunno, but Paddocks do one though it looks a tad slim. That's not the one I was thinking of. The one I'd seen was the lower lip, turn up, & about 8 or 10 inches into the whole front of the bonnet. I always wondered how it looked when used, as it seemed like it must leave a visible ripple from the weld across the front of the bonnet.
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Good luck finding an upholstery kit for that car. New Tan is scarce enough, but I've never even seen that pattern of plaid offered anywhere.
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cliftyhanger wrote: If worried about ZDDP levels, you can add zddplus or similar. I got some when I was visiting Bill in the states, much cheaper than over here. That really doesn't sound like a practical solution to me. As much as older cars leak/burn oil, a separate ZDDP tank with gravity feed would be essential to accommodate the times oil was needed but no time/place to get ZDDP additive, forgetting, etc.
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A ballpark cost would make the decision easier!
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My GT6 diff has leaked from the seals at the prop & where the axles are attached. Replacement of them was fairly easy, although dealing with the rear suspension for the ones at the axles was the usual fun palace danceathon.
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That's a very impressive mess it made!
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The factory used to make a bonnet repair section of the front foot or so of the bonnet. Would Fitchett's still be pressing them?
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The report of a shaking & rattling steering wheel also makes me think of the column brace at the dash.
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I think the domed pistons were only used in the last Mk3's, not necessarily for high compression, but as part of the BL scheme to use common parts across the 6 cylinder engines. What is the number on your engine?
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The gear knob switches have a reputation for sometimes shorting wires in the gear lever.
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Is the switch in the gear knob or on the steering column?
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Don't SU's have little brass basket filters in them where the fuel line attaches?
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The GT6 Mk1 carb inter-linkage is problematic in that it doesn't age well & becomes loose. My advice would be to call your uncle Andrew Turner at Andrew Turner Carbs & see what he suggests. He may have a solution, even if it is to get some part adapted to use the sprimgy clamps that were on the later GT6's. Personally, I prefer Strombergs to SU's, & especially like the Strombergs fitted to the GT6 Mk1 with the adjustable jets.
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It would be a shame not to have the wonderful & justly-famous Triumph 2.0 I6 if the opportunity came. It's heavy, but others have done it, & with modern fuel injection & engine management it would likely be a joy.
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My Mk3 had a used Mk2 engine installed by the BL dealership after their rebuild of the original engine expired. The Mk2 engine is really nice. When that engine went south is when I realized that the BL dealership was eating me alive & bought the shop manual to rebuild it myself. That rebuild then lasted a couple of decades.
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Can you tell where it is leaking from the diff?
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The car looks stunning as usual, Wim!
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I don't know how you'll ascertain the sealing efficacy of the rings in the cylinders with identical low pressure. It may be more work, but you may just have to replace the head gasket & do a compression test again.
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Here's the info from the shop manual:
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BrendanD wrote: Give me Strombergs any day..... Hear, hear! Another in favor of Strombergs. Tastes differ, but from my dealings with them both, I prefer the Strombergs. Not the least because the fuel bowl is more closely integrated with he carb body, making them less of an articulated beast to deal with.
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I am just now seeing this also! Sorry, Mr. Elsie! Here are the photos of the factory GT6 Mk3 springs, rotoflex suspension spring top, swing-spring bottom: The factory shop manual has rear spring specs as to number of leaves, arch, etc. I am not near my shop manual now, but if you're near yours, it's at the beginning of the section for the rear suspension.
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I agree, the best books for someone unfamiliar with the car are still the factory shop manual & the factory parts catalog. Finding the factory parts catalog can be tricky these days, but it's what's seen on the Canley Classics website when you order parts. My experience when first doing major work on the car was that the shop manual told you what to do, & the parts catalog showed how the pieces go together.
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It seems like if that's the point at which the thermostat is maintaining the coolant, monkeying around with the radiator won't change anything.
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What Mike said, although I can see how it would be hard for someone to tell who wasn't extremely familiar with the car's speed vs. rpms. It's interesting that it's a J-type overdrive. GT6's all came with D-type OD's, & fitting a J-type isn't a drop-in project.