rotoflex
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Everything posted by rotoflex
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There's a lucky car! Very nice work!
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As for the little hole that the license plate wires came through: you can mount a laser beam there to take care of the people who follow you with their lights on bright.
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Only the strongest can handle Triumph's most hardcore colors: brown & magenta.
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No stops for steering lock-to-lock.
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Those should fit - any single air filters should fit if they're spec'd for CD150 carbs. If you use an air filter housing, you'll need to ask if the Vitesse intake manifold mounted the carbs the same distance apart as the GT6 manifolds.
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I think it was because US federal regulations required separate braking systems, so the tandem system was offered as an option on the home market cars.
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It might be best to see a picture of the air filter housing. Did the 2L engines use different air filters from GT6 to Vitesse, etc.?
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Spitbits in the US has them for $199 http://www.spitbits.com/store/Master-Cylinder-C369.aspx When you get a new one, hang on to the old one. Then when you need another new one, just have the old one re-sleeved.
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It looks like 6J was a richer selection for the CD150s that were on the 2L I6 in the 2000: [Sorry, link no longer available] So if it's slightly richer, you should take advantage of the opportunity to try to make improvements increasing the air induction.
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Sorry you had to do the clutch, but good to hear it's fixed!
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What a worthy addition to the pantheon of exhaust system party music makers. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nnzw_i4YmKk And the classic Aermore whistle for the Model A: http://macsautoparts.com/model-a-ford-aermore-exhaust-whistle-kit-a18750kt/camid/MDA/cp/JS0R3CHL1136917/ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UxQeU4BMI1A
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I know nothing about the optional rear seat!
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How bad are the oil leaks? From where does it leak?
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A carb rebuild set will typically come with gaskets, diaphragm, & needle valve to fit all varieties of the CD, CDS, & CDSE. You will have some gaskets left over that are not for your carb. Needles, jets, & springs are supplied separately. I am unqualified to guess which ones to put in the carbs for your setup! However, needles, jets, & springs are not usually wear items. Changing them is usually done for calibration purposes. Edit: Your carbs appear to be the CDS carburetors. My understanding of the variants: 1st iteration: mixture adjuster on bottom, Stromberg CD 2nd gen: choke mechanism changed to "starter box" mechanism on side of carb, CDS 3rd gen: Emissions control assemblies added to side of carb, mixture adjustment moved to through the top & hole in float bowl plugged: CDSE And I think the Stromberg CD with thermostatic choke that late US Spitfires had were called CDSET or similar. We should assemble photos of each type for purposes of differentiation & put them on the Wikipedia page: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zenith_carburettor
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Wow, as Brendan said, Stromberg CD150 carbs. The are identified by having the mixture control on the bottom, & none of the later plastic emissions structures on the sides. Nifty carbs to have!
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Wow, as Brendan said, Stromberg CD150 carbs. The are identified by having the mixture control on the bottom, & none of the later plastic emissions structures on the sides. Nifty carbs to have!
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I have always had a GT6 and don't know a whole lot about Spitfires, but why did they make the seat on the hard top face backwards?
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If you're in the US, there are some other typical mirror options other than the bullet mirror Some say the late Spitfire square mirrors work better for them Some have recommended overtaking mirrors
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Strong gas/exhaust smell should not be present. I'd look for openings in the body shell & plug them up. Also I wonder if you may have an exhaust system with the outlet farther under the car than normal. Exhaust could enter missing wheel well plugs, rotted wiring grommets in the body, etc.
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4058 wrote:Don't know if I should talk to you now your working on an M.G! :P :P Do not ostracize, we have all had to help the lepers at some time, even if it was just to push them out of the way.
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It shows how tastes differ! I can appreciate how the additional towque of the 2.5 engine would be attractive, but having grown up in a time & place where V8's were in everything, I was completely seduced by the Triumph 2L inline 6! I remember back in the day of several visits to the British Leyland dealership for repairs at first, then just parts, the salesmen trying to get me in a new car & always being asked if I wanted to test drive a car instead of waiting. I well remember the TR6 and it being a nice car, but still liking the 2L in my GT6 better.
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I've not been into the motor before, & so couldn't tell what's supposed to go where inside it. If you want to just check the chassis wiring, there's a GT6 wiring diagram at http://www.oocities.org/rotoflex/mk3-wiring-variant.gif The switch & motor are at 37 & 38, respectively, & the wire colors are shown as well as the number on the connectors. I think the switch connector has numbers cast into it & so should be easy to check, but I'm not sure if numbers are cast into the motor connector.
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I have never known one to come out with just a gentle tap. You usually need all the inertia you can muster to get that thing out. Remove the circlip. Put a piece of 2x4 lumber down on solid ground (like concrete or ashpalt). Firmly grasp the outside of the cylinder with long-handled pliers like these: Draw the arm back, & with a long, tennis-like swing with lots of follow-through, strike the open end of the cylinder on the piece of 2x4. Wop! Do it again! Long swing, not necessarily hard or even fast, but with that all-important follow-through! Don't slow down as the cylinder nears the 2x4. Form is important in this one! Wop! Continue as needed. This is one of those fraternity-defining repair procedures.
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Should be CDSE 150 Rebuild kits usually come including pieces for a couple of similar carbs, so don't freak out if you have strange leftover pieces.
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Underseal sometimes traps stuff under it that corrodes the metal. I think that the best way for someone who always uses the car is to just have a can of body color (or close) in a can to put on with a paintbrush. Every now & then you can wire wheel the bubble area, then brush on the paint. That area won't look perfect, but it will be "traditional" !