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Spitfire2500

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Everything posted by Spitfire2500

  1. 5005 wrote:hi bill thanks for that,  and if they also have the A post closure panels, then i would say 99.9% they are nos ones then, any chance of a pic of these also plz. how does the top of the wing fit ( where the rear top of the wing has that little upward kick on it ) where it meets the bottom of the  A post, good or bad... Managed to grab some photos of the N/S wing in the garage tonight. Couple of pictures of the lower fixing bracket (doesn't look much like a proper curve to me :)): Detail of the rear of the top slap panel: A-post closure panel - now I know what they're called :) Couple of pics of rear top of the wings: The wing joins the A-post perfectly here. No adjustment required. Unfortunately I couldn't take any pictures of the wing laid on the car to show how well it fits because the car's the wrong way round in the garage ;D (so that I can work on the rear lamp panel). The N/S of the car is hard up against the far wall at the moment. Is it the case that the only sources to date for full front wings have been OE/Stanpart and Earlparts? Has no-one else manufactured full front wings over the years?
  2. 5005 wrote:bill, is the lower fixing bracket curved in the middle or is it a " straight " stepped curve,..lloyd I'll check when I get home this evening Lloyd. I'll take some pics. They also have the complete bracket at the rear of the wings that fit to the A-post just in front of the door - if you know what I mean  :)
  3. Richard_B wrote:If they are black etched or dark brown then they are probably OE. I think the repro ones were bare metal (although may have been red primer'd afterwards). Soft red/bowrn primer. No hole and captive nut for bumper which is why we suspect they're not OE/Stanpart.
  4. 1526 wrote: Remarks about fit is based upon statements at last years Spares Meeting at Stoneleigh... My recollection - which is often unreliable  :) - of the Spares Meeting is that it was specifically the repair sections produced by said manufacturer that people had issues with. That's a view I would tend to agree with. But so far the full panels I've had from them have been fine - but thus is presupposing that the wings I have are theirs. Provenance is unclear - got them Chic Doig about five years ago who had got them in turn from Jaguar dealership who were having a clear out a few years before that.
  5. 1526 wrote:- The only other potential source (and we have been spun along that some might be made for some 5 years now to my knowledge) are reported to require a massive amount of work to get them to fit in any sort of way... Absolutely no argument about the supply issues Ted, but I have what we believe to be a pair of these wings here - they will be going on our Mk 2 - and they are a very good fit indeed. Trial fits to date indicate that the N/S wing is going to go more-or-less straight on.
  6. Cheers Tim. As noted above Ted is sending me an early ARB engine crossmember which I should be able to modify but if anyone unearths a late type ARB engine crossmember that they no longer need please let me know.
  7. 4058 wrote:There is also the crystal headlights! They give a nice bright beam. (various makes, but go for a good one, for example wipac) Anyone in the UK with these fitted had any issues at MOT time? I fitted a pair of Crystals (Wipac 6072) and Chic Doig reported that the MOT man was having problems measuring a beam pattern on his equipment. They did get it to register something on his tester eventually by randomly fitting different bulbs - but it all seemed a bit odd and I didn't have a lot of time to chat about it when I collected the car.
  8. Appreciate the offer - but thanks to Ted Taylor an ARB crossmember will be with me next week. It's the earlier type but it should easy enough to re-drill it for the correct offset. Cheers,
  9. Sam - You can put me down for one of the satin back ones. Ultimitely I'd like to get my hands on one of the TT sloped ones as per Marcus's last pic but a satin black one as per Sam's pic will do for the time being   Back in about 1989/1990 I had about seven or eight of these lying about in the garage, of which three or four were SAH ones - would you believe I gave them away when Triumphs and I parted company in 1992 (temporarily as it later turned out)  
  10. Ted, FWIW the settings I have noted for the Webers are: Choke - 33 Aux Vent - 4.5 Emulsion Tube - F16 Main Jet - 125 Air Jet - 185 Idler Jet - 50F9 Pump - 40 Back Bleed - 0 But note that these are for the Sprint 90 camshaft we have fitted - which is a pretty peaky affair to be honest - comes on at 3.5k  ??) It is very nippy when it gets going  :) For something a bit closer to a standard 2.5 I have the following noted as a starting point: Choke - 28 Aux Vent - 4.5 Emulsion Tube - F16 Main Jet - 120 Air Jet - 175 Idler Jet - 50F9 Pump - 35 Back Bleed - 0 Cheers,
  11. 1526 wrote: Sounds a good deal ....... will swap for your Webers .......(whistle) That's a very generous offer Ted - I'll just need a little while to think about it...  :P  ;D  ;D
  12. OK - Wins have anti-roll bars in stock so are sending one out to me but I'm not having much luck tracking down an engine cross member. So, if anyone has an ARB engine cross-member (TKC1940) as fitted to late cars (75-77) I will gladly relieve you of it for a few goodies of your choice  ;D
  13. As per subject - on the lookout for an anti-roll bar and the correct engine cross member for a 1976 2000TC. Cheers,
  14. I would also be interested - one front and one rear.
  15. ferny wrote:£ 50-60 is about average.  I'd consider £40 as mates rates! Just what I was going to say  :) Personally I can't see past Stag/S alloys on Saloons. Revs would be my next favourite.
  16. tiggrr1 wrote:Penrite 20w/60 Been using that in the Spit since 2003 and in the Saloon when it was on the road. Personally I wouldn't use anything else now.
  17. tiggrr1 wrote:Penrite 20w/60 Been using that in the Spit since 2003 and in the Saloon when it was on the road. Personally I wouldn't use anything else now.
  18. cook1e wrote:...just follow the MOSS videos that I linked to earlier... I didn't know about these so thanks for pointing them out. I know my way around most of the mechanical stuff on my Triumphs but I'm still a relative novice when it comes to doing stuff with engines and I learned more in the half-hour or so I spent watching these videos than I did in the entire 1980s and early 90s with the stuff we had available to us back in the days before the interwebthingy  ??)  :B :B  ;D  ;D
  19. Gt6s wrote: Fit a Quaife to a 3.63 unit. The 3.63 diff in our Spit 2.5 (it's really a 2.7!) was built with a Quaife LSD eleven years ago now and it's been troublefree so far - and it gets a fair amount of abuse... ??) ;D
  20. 1555 wrote:been wonderful reading all the messages on message diary and seeing mint pictures,,,you deserve a pat on the back 8) 8) 8) Completely agree. I really enjoy the message diaries -- from both the 10CR and the RBRR. Hopefully from next year on I'll be contributing to the diaries rather than reading them from home  ;D
  21. The usual advice is to test with cellulose thinners and/or try rubbing it with a coin. If the primer comes off in either case then it's recommended to strip the panel back to bare metal. Otherwise key and prime as normal. The hard black primer used on OE panels is good stuff and normal advice is that it can be left on. However I recently had a couple of the OE panels that came in the hard black primer media blasted as part of a job lot and I'm glad I did cause there was corrosion starting under the primer in a few places. Maybe not that unexpected bearing in mind the age of OE panels and the conditions they may or may not have been stored in. For peace of mind I'll be doing this with all the new panels for the Saloon.
  22. Brilliant stuff. As Colin says the welding is top notch.
  23. :) I think you managed to describe it better than I did Bill  :)
  24. I'm struggling a wee bit to picture what you describe but it seems to me that you maybe didn't compress the spring enough? From the bottom up you should have cup washer, bush, spring plate, bush, cup washer then the two nuts. When fitting these the spring needs to be compressed to the extent that they are essentially a loose fit and then you tighten the top nuts to compress the bushes (but be careful not to over tighten). Then release the spring from the compressor.
  25. 4247 wrote:I'll reassess once I've got the car on decent (round, not old and still flexible!) tyres...  ;D Yeah - I wouldn't be looking at the prop until I'd got new tyres on. Been there etc etc...
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