DougBGT6
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Everything posted by DougBGT6
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Should look like this: http://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-spitfire-mkiii-alternator-mounting If you turned it upside down it would be on the front, but then then big hole would be upside down.
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Yes 0.7 is for GT6 1,2 and early mk3. Late mk3 (Feb 73 onward) are 0.75 which are no longer available. I may have to replace my 0.75 with a 0.7. I'm told this will increase pedal travel by about an inch. 5/8" is 0.625 So by rough rule of thumb..........If 0.05 reduction increase travel by an inch, 0.075 increases travel 1.5 inches?
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My car had factory fitted static belts anchored near the top of the wheel arches. When I got inertia reel they were mounted as John's. However they came with an additional bracket which fitted to the original static mount and angled the belt over my shoulder.
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Did you fit a 12v or 6v coil? I have a 6v, no ballast resistor but a ballast wire. I'd get a can of easy start or similar and squirt it in your carbs. If the engine tries after that your sparks OK. I had similar problems after a winter lay off, turned out to be the manifold gasket completely shot. Put your hand over the carb air intake, turn the engine over, is there suction? If there's no vacuum the fuel can't get into the bore. Are your plugs wet with fuel? If not the manifold is letting air in rather than the carb letting fuel in. Also check compression with a meter, they're quite cheap if you haven't got one. You're looking for all pots to be roughly the same, not zero obviously but about the same.
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Do you have a servo? White smoke was the first sign that mine was emptying brake fluid into the vacuum. Just a thought, check the fluid level.
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I've had a vertical link snap, an invigorating experience so say the least! ??) My car's PO thought lubrication was for wimps. As stated check the thread right at the top, any deterioration, ditch it. Regarding grease, grease was once water based and turned to damaging powdery grit so Triumph changed to oil for trunions. Oil is a better lubricant in this application but grease is no longer water based and your PO may not have done any damage using it.
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My MOT man failed my car for slack trunions, when I took it back he tested them exactly as described. He'd been an apprentice in a Triumph dealership and says he looks forward to seeing my car. He knows a little too much about Triumphs for my liking!
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Here's a link to some very good diagrams, although not as old as your car I'm sure they'll give you a clue. I find these far easier to follow than Haynes which are difficult to read and sometimes incorrect. http://www.triumphspitfire.com/wiring.html
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Yes John you're correct, mine's the same. I've just never noticed the Furflex on the quarter light and mentioned it, nothing to do with the question, sorry to confuse everybody. ;D
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Ummmm, Furflex. ;D
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John do you mean the strange carpet strips don't sound original? http://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-gt6-mkiii-rear-quarter-ventilator This diagram shows the rear quarter light seals have various colours, (not chestnut unfortunately) so I think it's standard.
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Just looked at mine, head lining! Never noticed before that the rear quarter lights are trimmed with narrow strip of carpet on top of the rubber seal. Odd!
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I bought one of these despite being suspicious of the price and it being made in China. However, it is good quality and just needed slight modification. Delivery was about 4 days. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/H4-H4-Headlight-Headlamp-Black-Booster-Wire-Harness-Cable-SAYG-/161266923711?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item258c41f8bf
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What nang said! Although, I bought an electronic ignition for a ballasted system (TSSC shop). Not cheap though, I'd been warned off cheap ones due to quality issues, the magnets aren't always accurately placed. But you'll probably be OK, I'm just a natural pessimist! :-/
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Iron and steam, interesting! I'll have a look around for that.
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I'm in a similar position (mk3 non roto) I still have most of the original Chestnut colour carpet but some of it badly faded and the rear luggage carpet almost transparently thin. I've been looking around for some time and got a few carpet samples. The benefit of the fitted carpet is ease of installation I don't know how you would make, the loose carpet fit on the wheel arches which curve in two planes. However, I've been uniformly disappointed with the carpet quality of the fitted offerings. Although I know many people are pleased with them they don't come near the quality of the original. Also there are very limited colours, I want Chestnut! On the other hand I've got some very good quality loose carpet samples from Coverdale and in the right colour! More expensive of course. I'm now thinking my current wheel arch carpet, although faded, is in reasonable condition so maybe I could dye it. Then replace the rest with the Coverdale carpet. Also as I'm making the loose carpet fit I imagine the underlay is not going to be a problem as it may well be with fitted carpet..
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An ingenious idea but I wouldn't use my BEST vacuum cleaner, for fear of retribution! ??)
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Interesting. That's a 3 way union, MC feed in at the top, rear brakes out at the bottom and feed to the servo out at the side. Except, the servo feed seems to be going into that strange bleed nipple arrangement. The pipe out the top of the bleed nipple thingy looks familiarly like the feed to the front brakes. So at a guess I would say the servo's not even in the loop! Difficult to tell from the photo.
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If your pumping the pedal and it goes harder, you've got air in the system I think. Sorry! :B Also halfway down isn't too good. How well adjusted are your rear slaves? Are they self adjusters? Mine are but they don't work too well. ;D Also are you bleeding the brakes in the right order? it can be confusing. On mine the pipe goes from the master cylinder on the driver's side, across the bulkhead to the passenger side, down to the passenger wheel and then another pipe across the chassis to the driver's wheel. Similarly at the back, so the furthest from the MC is the driver's side rear wheel and the closest the passenger side front. Which is sort of counter intuitive.
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Just to be clear my GT6 is non rotoflex late. It has a single master cylinder and had a Girling servo as standard. Master cylinder to 3 way union, (on the bulk head by the battery) one feed to rear brakes one to servo. Feed from servo to 3 way union (on the chassis near the passenger side front wheel) one feed L/H front, one feed R/H front. Steve, good pics! Red brake pipes! Wow! And a nice rocker cover. No vacuum?
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I haven't done any more work on this as I've been up in Scotland fitting new taps at my mother's house. Paddles instead of knobs, very good for the arthritic. So I haven't done anymore on the servo, thought about it a lot though! :-/ There has to be more fluid in the system after the brakes have been applied than before. If there's a leak or bleeding going on the master cylinder lets more fluid into the system when you release the brakes. I'm wondering if the master cylinder is letting in fluid quicker than the servo is releasing it and therefore too much fluid in the system. Dunno! :B First step is refurbish the master cylinder. Which means if I've got it off sort out the paint work, so better do the clutch master cylinder as well. And the slave I suppose, which means cowl off. Oh dear! :-/ Confused over adding the rear brakes into the servo system, I thought I read somewhere on here that was a bad idea? Might be wrong, I'm open to advice.
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I got my new Lockheed servo installed, it works! Except the rear brakes are binding slightly, which is quite odd as the servo is only on the front brakes! :-/ I'm thinking, I put my foot on the brake, fluid is pushed through the brass T piece, half to the servo, half to the rear brakes. I take my foot off the brake and fluid is expelled from the servo and should go back to the master cylinder, as should the fluid from the rear brakes. But what if there's a constriction between master cylinder and T piece? Then the servo would push the fluid to the rear brakes? Am I grasping at straws?
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On my GT6, which I think is similar, the hazard relay and the indicator relay look alike, although they have different part numbers. One is on the bulkhead near the horn relay, next to the battery and the other is behind the dashboard near the speedo. I forget which one is which! :B But easy enough to disable the bulkhead one and identify which one is which.
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Yup, that's the way! ;D did you use an assistant? Or, a cunning one way valve device? Or my own favourite, a long tube into a jar, frantic pumping and running round the car to turn the spanner?
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Agree with Andy that's EXACTLY what I do. Tighten them up before the MOT slacken them off after. Had it fail once, despite being in spec, in the circumstances described! I have no problem prising the cap off, screwdriver under the lip and twist, then the other side.