DougBGT6
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Everything posted by DougBGT6
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I had adhesive pads that came with my Mintex but I thought they didn't look very substantial so I used the ordinary metal anti squeak shims and so far no squeaks! The disks I haven't fitted were grooved and dimpled, not drilled. I can see that drilled would weaken the disk and be prone to cracking through the hole. Since becoming aware of them I've noticed all sorts of OEM cars have grooved and dimpled, mostly exotic stuff, Mercs, Porsche etc. Oh and by the way Wim, your pics show far worse wear on one side of one of the disks than the other which I think indicates a sticking piston problemette.
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Is this a hazard warning relay? Hazards weren't mandatory on cars this early, but it could be an optional extra. Hazards have to work with the ignition off so I would check to see if there's voltage on any of the relay pins with the ignition off (red/green?). Is the switch actually connected to the relay? Also I your black wire appears much thinner than the others, odd for an earth wire, maybe the relay gets it's earth by being screwed to the bulk head? So is black really earth?
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I don't have one but if I was doing a lot of motorway cruising something would have to be done. The roar of the engine is great.......for a while, but long distances? No! On the other hand, as you say, there are an awful lot of OD problem threads. As someone who's had no trouble rebuilding gearboxes I think the OD looks pretty complicated, which is probably why they go wrong a lot. In hindsight Triumph really should have gone for a 5 speed box rather than OD. In fact you will find a number of threads on here where people have converted to a modern 5 speed box. So, motorway cruising, you need OD or, a 5 speed box.
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Yeh... I thought lawnmower, but I didn't want to say. :B I also notice it wasn't keen to rev, you had to pull the cable 2 or 3 times to pursued it. So everything said above, then check the carb dashpots are moving freely and you've got oil in them. Then the usual suspects, timing, spark and mixture.
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Just an update on the parking sensors. I read you can actually hear them if they are working. So ignition on, reverse selected, hand brake on. Couldn't make it out at first but I got my beer syphoning tube, stuck it in my ear and pressed the other on each sensor. Sure enough a faint rapid tapping sort of noise from three at the back but the fourth, nothing! So that's the dead one. I think I can sort it without the gizmo but I'm gonna get it anyway.
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Ah....well.... a bit of understatement. :-/ When I say uneven they looked all right from the OUTSIDE but as the MOT man pointed out "The inner treads are down to the canvas Guv!" ??) I thought the tracking had been adjusted when I bought it, the steering wheel being at a bit of a slant. Had the tracking checked and it's OK. So the scenario is the tracking's gone out, it's been fixed but the tyres are damaged, so lets get rid while, at a cursory glance, the tyres look OK. Devious swine! As to the diagnostic gizmo, thanks guys! I've checked requirements and isolated a likely candidate on Ebay, should take delivery shortly. I'm hoping it's a loose connection as the sensors are a hell of a price and, to add insult to injury, you have to paint it yourself.
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My modern failed it's MOT for unevenly worn front tyres. £280 for the pair. Kerching! :-/ Bit different from my GT6, £100 for 5! (Buy 4 get one free!). My MOT man also advised me my rear parking sensors aren't working, not an MOT problem but, he could fix it for an eye watering amount of money. I think I need one of those diagnostic thingies which might tell me where this problem is. Anybody got any recommendations?
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So the explanation given here is incorrect then? http://www.subaru4you.co.uk/brakes/whygrooved.shtml
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I bought some grooved and dimpled disks which work best with Greenstuff and similar pads. Greenstuff give off gasses when under pressure and grooved disks dispel the gas. Mintex don't give off gas and are fine with plain disks. I bought some Mintex 1144s, they are better. Anybody want some grooved and dimpled disks? ;D
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Yes, think so, just checked Haynes, purple/white one side, earth the other. Other purple/whites are for door light & switches and tailgate switch.
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Thanks guys! I'll try that. I've just been putting up with it till now. ;D
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Mine is held on with an Allen screw. Despite being done up as tight as I can it drops off at the slightest tremor.
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Here is a link to Buckeye Triumphs which will tell you everything you want to know about refurbishing CDSEs. They are 175s not 150s but essentially the same. It does include re-calibrating the temperature compensators but this is not generally necessary, just replace the O rings which will be in the refurb kit. Buckeye will also tell you what happens if you blank them off. http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/CarbsI/CarbsI.htm
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Pete, what servo did you fit? My servo is pretty much ineffective but as the service kit is 2/3 the price of a replacement I'm thinking new servo. Surprised to learn you sold the Vitesse! ??)
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I got a rebuild kit from Rimmers had the butterflies, jets, spindles etc, but no needles. Checked Rimmer's web site for needles and found there were early & late. THEN discovered there were early & late jets, but the kit, described as universal, only came with early jets. I needed late but would they change the jets? Nope, can't split a kit!
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Couple of weeks ago for an ACR16 (34 amp) it cost me, regulator £8.99 rectifier £9.90 brushes £4.49 = £23.38 plus postage
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Under the black plastic cover the alternator has carbon brushes a regulator and a rectifier. These are easy to replace although the rectifier requires soldering, if you're up for it. Suggest you take the cover off remove the brushes and see if the rotor is worn. If it is it's a new alternator I'm afraid. Also if the bearings are worn it's not worth fixing. But if the bearings and rotor are OK the other parts are cheap and easily available on Ebay. Also make sure you get the right regulator they can be 2, 3 or 4 wire for the same model, so look at your one first.
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Sounds like time for the trusty voltmeter. See what happens to the voltage across the bulb with the flashers on. Should give you a clue. I might put an old rheostat in line with the LED and turn it down till it all works, or not! :-/ Then you'll know what resistance you'll need. Or, just found this: http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz
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I assume is down to its element not getting hot enough during the time it has current running through it. If it was an electric fire element, yes, but an indicator bulb? No. Haven't you got another one you can try, out something else?
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RBRR celebrity entry
DougBGT6 replied to Velocita Rosso's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
The honorary president of TSSC is called Fuzz? ;D Is this the TSSC getting down with the kids? Init. -
I've just replaced the regulator and rectifier on an ACR 16. The rectifier works or it doesn't, it's just diodes, so if you've got 17 volts I'd say it's OK. It's the regulator that gives you the correct voltage (that's why it's called a regulator! ;D) However, do some research because there were three sorts of regulator for my ACR 16, 2 wire, 3 wire and 4 wire, depending on voltage sensing. So eyeball your regulator before ordering. Ebay was good.
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It looks in similar condition to my one on the GT6! :-/ I think the windings have to be electrically intact to get any reading so you may be OK with that. The problem with mine was the aluminium case, aluminium is a conductor but, aluminium oxide is not. Once I'd cleaned up the case and the float mechanism it worked. But it's a fiddly job that could go horribly wrong. I have no expectation it will last and I have it on my list to replace at some point. As to reading backwards, what happens if you reverse the wires on the gauge? ;D
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Do you have a compression tester? £12 for a cheap one on Ebay. It will tell you if your fix is going to be very expensive or, hoprfully, slightly expensive. ;D
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All 160 is good, all 120 is OK but some 160 and some 120 is not good. Do a wet test as suggested. :)
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Yeh, sounds like a blockage/constriction further back. That's how it was with me anyway. Filter varied from half full to nearly empty. Cleared out the piping and change the whole section from the pump to the carb with the armoured rubber tubing. Sorted.