DougBGT6
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Everything posted by DougBGT6
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setting elecrtonic ignition without timing light
DougBGT6 replied to daver clasper's topic in Electrical
I also have a vacuum gauge and you can set it with this as nang suggests. It's sort of the same as by ear. Twist the dizzy for maximum vacuum and then back a gnats. Didn't mention it before as my gauge stopped working, it keeps filling with brake fluid from my faulty servo and I don't like to think about it! ;D Still, new servo to be installed shortly, once I've duffed up the bulkhead.. As well as the timing you can also set the mixture with a vacuum gauge. http://www.classic-car-magazine.co.uk/articles/tuning-with-a-vacuum-gauge.html -
setting elecrtonic ignition without timing light
DougBGT6 replied to daver clasper's topic in Electrical
Yep, I got a strobe but I generally do it by ear, twist the dizzy for highest revs then back a gnats, that's it! 8) -
Tim, I to am only reporting what happened. I don't know why people get so aerated around here.
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Read what I rit "Fitted as standard includes factory optional extras" Doesn't matter if it was fitted at the factory or the dealer, the car was ordered with a servo. As to "experts" are you being rude about me, or my MOT man? I would think he's an expert, a Triumph apprenticeship and 40 years experience. He say he would fail my car if the servo is no more. What else can I say?
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Tosh? :-/ MOT testing manual section 3.6 Braking Systems and Additional Braking Devices Method of Inspection. Servos and Master Cylinders Check servos for a. Presence Reason for rejection a. Missing when fitted as standard. Fitted as standard includes factory optional extras. And yes I can tell if there's been a servo fitted and removed from the bulkhead and if your unlucky so can the MOT man. My MOT man was a Triumph apprentice and knows my car inside out. Unfortunately.
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JohnD, my servo hasn't worked for 20 years, I wasn't bothered but it is now proving a liability leaking brake fluid into the vacuum line. My immediate reaction was to remove it, however I am reliably informed that removing the servo is an MOT fail. This even if the servo was an extra to the original spec. Coincidently confirmed this at the garage this afternoon picking up my daughter's Fiesta. So, I have to have a servo want it or not.
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Pete, Thanks for the offer very good of you, unfortunately I've already bitten Rimmers hand off and ordered one for £102. :( Andy, thanks for the pics. It wasn't on special, I suspect they are getting rid of them. A year ago they did both Girling and Lockhead new replacements plus repair kits for both, now they only do a complete Lockheed and probably for not much longer.
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Just discovered I paid off my credit card 3 weeks ago and again last week! Paid it twice. :B Pillock! But this does mean a new servo can be mine! 8)
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GT6, yes, rotor from distributor doctor and I got the very expensive Aldon electronic ignition from the TSSC shop. I was concerned about poor quality reports on cheaper EI plus I have a late GT6 with a ballast wire rather than a ballast resistor so some frigging about required with cheaper EIs. TSSC are selling this as the EI for my car so I bit the bullet and bought it. No regrets!
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Just upgraded to electronic ignition so replaced plugs, HT leads and dizzy cap. I've already got a red rotor arm, the rest all from TSSC shop. Incredible improvement and no problems. Could have got it less expensive but you get what you pay for.
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My Girling servo is kaput, in fact leaking brake fluid into the vacuum line. The service kit is very expensive and a new replacement, although a little more, seems a better option. People tell me the Lockheed servo is superior and in fact, on Canley's, the Girling servo service kit page, takes you to their replacement Lockheed kit. Canley's Lockheed kit is £159.50, Rimmers seem to have the same thing for £102 (Unusually cheaper!) does anybody know of any other suppliers?
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Are you buying or selling? £200 if your buying, if you're selling, I'll give you a tenner! ;D
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Yeh! 30 degrees C for the covers. I should mention they are cloth fronts and vinyl backs. l, I was more concerned for the vinyl but they came out fine.
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I replaced my seat foams with Park Lane ones. Very pleased with the result, one of the best things I've done to the car. I put my covers through the washing machine in a kill or cure move. ??) They came out transformed, like new, so I'll have to wait for the leather covers. :-/
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The TSSC shop does both types but, easy enough to drill them out, as said.
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Yes, there are metric ones and imperial ones. You have got the wrong ones! ;) But easy enough to open the holes out. I retained my original metal shims as I didn't like the look of the new shims. You will be well pleased with the Mintex, worth the effort! 8)
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I had the same symptoms, I'd 15 miles or so and the engine would die, then after 10 - 20 minutes I could start again. What was happening was an accumulation of sludge was trapped in the fuel line, this slowly moved around blocking the flow and starving the engine of fuel. Then after 10 - 20 minutes the sludge would settle enough to re-establish the flow and off we'd go again. I got on the trail of this after fitting a plastic fuel filter and realizing it was empty when ever it happened. :) I replaced all the rubber sections of the fuel line and dyno-roded out the metal pipes with strimmer plastic flex. Sorted!
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I'm with VR, it's too cheap, £5.66 from China, free postage? Don't get me wrong, I've bought stuff from China and I've got a reasonable price but they can't get around the postage. This £5.66 includes postage. I don't like the look of the connectors, is the wiring crimped or soldered? How old were the people that put this together?
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My brother sheared the head off the bolt with his stillsons! ??) He drilled out the remainder, re-tapped the hole and put a bigger plug in.
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full engine rebuild? or partial? Thoughts please!
DougBGT6 replied to rockrockmcrock's topic in Engine
Agree with Mr Cook, if it aint broke don't fix it! Groundswell of opinion is the memory of lead is good enough for an unleaded head so why do it? If your worried use the additives. Finally, it leaks, that's how you know it's a Triumph! ;D -
On my GT6 there is a short rubber section, about 6 inches, as OE standard where the fuel line crosses the chassis at the rear wheel arch. So not a fail!
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Uh...... So why did you ask the question? :-/
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I've been looking for a while. Although they fit I've yet to find moulded sets in decent quality carpet. The colours are also limited, I want chestnut but nobody does it. The luxury sets however, right colour and good quality. I'm confused about comments regarding the tunnel, my carpets are original and just sort of drape over the tunnel, not too hard to duplicate I think. As to the loose carpet moving about, use carpet glue. The only problem with loose carpet, for a GT6 anyway, is the wheel arches, curved in two planes. I can't see a way to do it other than to cut the carpet and I'm not sure how well that would turn out. Mine aren't badly worn, just faded, I might just leave them and dye them to match the new set. But enough about me! ;D
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Mr Tickle?
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Well......that's what I did but, I was young and thoughtless :B, Aren't you putting your gearbox in danger?