DougBGT6
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Everything posted by DougBGT6
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Have you got the carb to manifold gaskets on right? They can go on 4 ways only one of them right, obviously ;D. I got them on and off three times before I cottoned on. :B Compression test. Mine are all around 150 but less is OK, more important that they should all be within 10/20 of each other.
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Gloves would be cheaper! ;D
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An easy fix yes, but the damage may already be done. I discovered my car had bad end float after I bought it so I replaced the thrust bearings. All seemed OK but the oil was knackered within a month. Turned out the end float had made the bores wear in an elongated S shape, front to back. And so my first re-bore. :-/
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An easy fix yes, but the damage may already be done. I discovered my car had bad end float after I bought it so I replaced the thrust bearings. All seemed OK but the oil was knackered within a month. Turned out the end float had made the bores wear in an elongated S shape, front to back. And so my first re-bore. :-/
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But NOT GT6 Mk3, as I discovered. ;D
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Strangely I've had that! Well not so strange, the fuse box is a rubbish design. :-/ The clips at either end of the fuse are not one piece, each end has isolated upper and a lower parts. So you have four "spigots" which are only connected together when the fuse is inserted. You can get all sorts of weird effects when only 3 "spigots" connect. But maybe you know this already. ;D I have a new modern fuse box in my garage ready to go.
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I've recently been looking into this. You CAN have electronic ignition on a ballasted system. The electronics is normally wired to the coil. OK for a 12V system but on a ballasted system 12V at start up, (supplied by the ignition) and 6V while running. So to use 12V electronics don't feed it from the coil, feed it directly from the ignition.
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Sounds like you've got an ignition problem but as stated a multi meter will tell you all. I bought a couple in Maplins 2 for 1 @£10. I always think the old fuel thing is a red herring, sure fresh fuel is better but if it won't start there's something additionally wrong. When I didn't have the money to fix up my car it had the same fuel in the tank for around 15 years. It started no problem every couple of months, until the last time. ;D Even then It wasn't the fuel that stopped it. Blown manifold gasket was the cause. But by the time I found it I had drained off the fuel and put it in the Peugeot, no problem. Lawn mowers, I grant you, are a different kettle of dobbins!
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12.4v is not enough for a new charged battery, should be around 13.5v. Could be alternator, more likely earth strap? Have you a battery charger? Charge it up, try it again. If the same it's a bad earth strap.
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Yes, from inside the body towards the float chamber. And, from inside the float chamber towards the main body for the new one. I used the Rimmer kit. You may find there are some bits left over as they try to cover every variation of Stromberg. However, they only include the early jets, as I found out. :-/ They wouldn't change them as they are part of a kit so I had to buy the late jets separately. But with a Mk1 I'm sure you've got the right ones. Did you get the spindles and butterflys as well? Watch out for the butterflys, they have to go in the right way round, there is a lip on one side.
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Did mine last year! You are correct those are the temperature compensator seals and you are quite right not to mess with the innards of compensators! ??) It's a bi-metallic strip which opens up as it gets hot. There is a screw inside that sets the temperature at which the strip opens and once disturbed very difficult to get set right again. I found this link very informative although the guy has the bigger 175s they are very similar. http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/CarbsI/CarbsI.htm I assume your carbs are top adjusting as that's a jet for a top adjusting carb. ;D I changed my jets. They are very easy to push out using an old drill bit, a vice and a block of wood. And a block of wood and the vice to get the new ones in. Notice that the jet is NOT flush with the base of the carb but a few mm down. Use one carb as a model for the other. Are you going to change the needles as well? There are earlys and lates, I think yours are earlys looking at the jet. I found the rubber ring around the jet more difficult as you have to wind the needle right down till it disconnects with the mechanism and pull it out. Mine did not want to come out! You then push the mechanism up and out, there's a tiny retaining washer which can ping anywhere, if your not careful. ;D Good luck!
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Well....there's no guarantee that your needles and jets are exactly identical or assembled identically so you may wind up with one carb adjusted differently to the other. Best thing is to persevere with the manual I'm afraid. :-/
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Thanks for that Don. I did the test and yes, 6 volts across the coil. So definitely ballasted however, only one feed to the + connector on the coil. So the ballast wire must join the solenoid wire somewhere in the loom rather than at the coil. Most of what I've read says use a 12volt coil with electronic ignition so I'm going to have to find the ballast wire and replace it.
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I'm all for originality and shiny chrome but......... Perhaps it's my body shape and hence driving position because once strapped into the static belt I can't reach the ignition key! ;D One of the good things I've done to my car is inertia reel belts.
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I'm thinking of fitting electronic ignition, my car is a late GT6 mk3 so it should have a ballasted coil. I've measured it and it's 1.9 ohms which I think is correct for 6v coil. There is no ballast resistor but there should be a resistive ballast wire. I have a diagram which shows the solenoid wire, the dizzy wire and the ballast wire all running to the coil. However I only have two wires. Another diagram shows the ballast wire joining the solenoid wire half way through it's length. So my question is, where is the ballast wire and the join?
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Depends if you want moulded or hand stitched. Moulded are a better fit but most are poor quality carpet. Here is a recent thread with some suppliers names in it. http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1413656414/s-0/
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Most sell one carpet set, excluding the rear mat, for all GT6s. There are three different rear mats and everybody including Newtons sells them separately. The variations are Mk1&2 with a rear set, Mk1&2 without a rear seat, and mk3. I've also occasionally seem mk3 rotoflex and non rotoflex, what the difference this makes to a carpet I don't know.
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My gearbox cover is not what I'd call fitted, it sort of drapes like a table cloth, tucks in at the bottom and has an unseen cloth strap across the top connecting the two sides and holding them in place. It has always been like this and I assume original. I'm more concerned about the wheel arch carpets which are a tight fit, curved front to back and side to side.
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Not come across Coverdale before but just looked at their site. they do my colour, CHESTNUT!!!! >:( WoHOO! From what Bainzy says I guess they're not moulded. The only place it will really show is around the wheel arches and as mine aren't too bad in that area, I'm tempted! Just a question of colour match so I've emailed them for samples. Another £400 on the car! Doh! :-/
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TSSC shop also sell them. I got a sample, but unfortunately it was no where near as good quality as the original. The consistency reminded me of a plastic pan scourer. :-/ Also be wary of the ones that just say GT6 as the 1s & 2s are different from the 3s. I've also seen a rotoflex and a non rotoflex variation.
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Good idea! Very professional. Better than my Captain Bodgeit solution. :B
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Yup. I have a Swiss Army pen knife with a thing for getting schoolboys out of horses hooves. It is similar to the tool we used to call a "bradle". Follow the instructions they are very comprehensive.
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I think the foams cost me £160 for two seats additionally a pair of leather covers £315 plus head rests. It's all on here: http://www.parklaneclassics.co.uk/
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I've heard about the polythene bag trick but how do you get it out? Bit of a sweaty ride if you leave it in! :-/ In the end I didn't use it. It was dead easy, just follow the instructions and buy your Evostik beforehand. And a hot tip. There's a sort of shirt tail of vinyl that hangs off the front of the seat back (if you follow me) this just tucks in behind the base of the seat and holds it in place. This is out of sight when everything is back together. There was enough of this vinyl for me to cut a 3 inch strip off which I used to cover and repair my arm rest. Pretty neat as chestnut vinyl is unobtainable! 8)
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I once had a scissor jack topple over and deposit my GT6 into a flower bed. The car was OK but the flowers were not. I was in deep trouble! ??) These days, get it up with a bottle jack, slip in an axel stand, spare tyre and some wooden blocks my Dad made out of ceiling joists. Then it's safe for my son-in-law to go under. ;D