DougBGT6
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Everything posted by DougBGT6
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Here is a link to Canley’s spares catalogue for the engine. The item in question is 151134. http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/diagram/gt6mkiiiengineunitcylinderblocklinersoilpressureswitch.html&xhtmlcatalogue=xhtml/catalogue/gt6mkiii.html&category=engine&xsl=diagram.xsl Notice items 36234 which are wooden :-/ packing pieces. The leak is between 151134 and the sump. Two of the sump bolts screw into 151134. Steel bolts, aluminium thread. No matter how carefully you torque them up, do not over tighten, do not under tighten, eventually it leaks. Spillage for me was about an egg cup full a week, doesn’t sound like much but it used to drive my Dad insane! He was very proud of his garage floor!
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Hi Dan, we met again! Our old Uncle will be along soon! ;D I found rebuilding the bottom end disappointingly quick, hours rather than days. Still I didn't take the core plugs out. As I recall you hosed out the waterways and the consensus was don't use sealant on the new plugs. I'd start with those, you don't want to be swinging a hammer near your shiny new bearings and the block will be a little lighter to push around. When do you start?
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If I were replacing the callipers I would also be replacing the discs and pads. What do they say? Spoiling the ship for a halfpenny worth of tar?
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Aside from the two holes for the manifold bolts your carb has a third hole which I think is bypass or vent hole. The picture of the manifold shows the gaskets have no cut out to accommodate this. As Colin says you may be better off with an OE manifold.
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Sorry Alec, x is right next to c hence Alex :-/
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Alex, Number 1 it doesn't leak. And number 2 it doesn't leak ;D I have repaired the aluminium one in the past as you describe. It lasts about 6 month and then....... it leaks. I think Duckhams sponsored Triumph to install the original to increase oil sales. Doug
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A must have item! ;D
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Is your manual Haynes? If so front of Suspension and Steering Section.
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Sorry Alec, But I've had it happen to me and I've heard about it too many times from others to think it's not a problem, the thing is weak link and frequently a major source of leakage. As to availability another club has it in their shop and I believe it's a best seller. Doug
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I did this a long time ago. You have to undo the engine mounts and jack up the engine on one side to wiggle the sump out. I did it because I had massive end float and I did get those bearings in. Also changed the con road shells as they were in the kit but, as to the main bearings, I don't remember, not sure how I could have got them in. Also while you've got the sump off replace that horrible leak prone aluminium piece at the lower front of the block with a steel one. And did changing the bearings fix my engine? No it didn't! After six months end float as bad as before and oil turning to jelly. All due to elongated S shape wear it the bores caused by original massive end float. All fixed by my first re-bore and regrind.
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There are some dodgy pumps around. I had one fitted by the MOT man, he swore it was the right one but couldn't keep up and had no primer lever. I replaced it with a Rimmers £20 job and got a refunded from the garage.
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If you can afford to that much I'd go for Park Lane's Leather covers.
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Chrome! ummmmmmm.
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Cheers John! But I lust after an alloy! I read about the gasket. Roy above says more room under a mk3 but Canleys say it's the mk3 has the problem.
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My rocker cover is an embarrassment, rusty and bent out of shape. There's a nice one here going on a 6 cylinder spitfire. I want one! But I've also read on here that it's a tight fit in the power bulge and sometimes fouls it. Why does it fit on some and not others? Is there some adjustment on the bonnet height? Or is it down to slight difference in tolerances during bonnet manufacture?
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I'd test with a compression meter before taking off the head. More Important that all are around the same rather than a particular level, all around 150 or 140 or 130 etc is OK, but one at 150, one at 110, one at 130 etc. aint so good!
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Don't despair, you know more than you think. I know nothing of these hydro-carbons of which you speak! :K) I've had body work done at an MG garage. MGs seem more solid to me than triumphs but heavier, not as fast and not as pretty. Other things to check, manifold gasket, unlikely with a vacuum of 19 but could be leaking when you put your foot down. Also when you put the carbs back did the gaskets have a strange cut out which should align with a hole in the carb and manifold? I've put this back wrong twice!
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15 sounds a tad low, I would have thought up around 19/20 was ideal. You can set the timing using the vacuum gauge, here is a link. http://www.classic-car-magazine.co.uk/articles/tuning-with-a-vacuum-gauge.html
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Also, replace the pressure relief spring, Rimmer's do a standard and an uprated. (Don't know in what circumstance you would need the uprated) You can check the effect by putting some washers behind the spring and see if pressure increases. And as regards my Ex that wasn't the incident that led to her exit. More to do with the constant ear ache!
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To get my Euro box into my garage it would HAVE to have fold flat mirrors. Unfortunately I wouldn't be able to get out there's so little space! Even the GT6 is a tight squeeze. 30 houses down my street and I'm the only one with a garaged car.
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My ex ran mine for 40 miles with NO oil pressure. Didn't notice the red light. re-bore, new crank.
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Regarding earlier discussions on alternators and ammeters, the ammeter to have in this situation is a shunt ammeter. How this works is, a very accurate low resistance shunt is inserted in the alternator to battery cable. As current flows a variable voltage is generated across the shunt proportional to the current flowing. This is applied to the ammeter which is actually a secret volt meter, calibrated to display the current flowing. I used to have one but the shunt died and you don't see them anymore, only industrial ones with LCD displays.