James Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 Just wondering who would be interested in a set of these?If there is enough interest I will look in to getting some made - I already have a possible contact - tubular steel with a rod end on the inside.They'll be straight, so for those that have converted to CV joints.James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gt6s Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 jcarruthers wrote:Just wondering who would be interested in a set of these?If there is enough interest I will look in to getting some made - I already have a possible contact - tubular steel with a rod end on the inside.They'll be straight, so for those that have converted to CV joints.JamesIf you offer FREE removal of the long bolts I will have a pair. ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 James Cooper and I were considering these after inspecting the backend of a certain GT6 MkIII owned by Marcus. How long will they be and where will they pivot? Our cunning plan was to adapt a pair of front wishbones and weld on adjusters with tubes to take the rear trunnions. I was planning on welding brackets to the base of the chassis. Are you going to the Plough tomorrow? Maybe discuss it there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 James,Just a thought, but those running the R100 CV conversion need to be aware that there isn't very much spare plunge in the inner CV and adjusting the camber via lower wishbone length will affect this and might result in inner CV issues. Probably be fine for a small amount but care definitely needed!Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted March 20, 2011 Author Share Posted March 20, 2011 Richard- direct replacements for the originals.Nick- really just to make adjustment easier and remove a bit of weight! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 Could do with loosing some weight it is true :)Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 Sounds good to me :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99176 Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 Being selfish I think you should put a curve in them.Then I'll join the end of the line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burlingtonSS Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 Yep, I would be interested Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 the other way to go is to make up a bracket, that fits onto the chassis, that is bolted thru, bit like the frunt ones, only with two bolt holes to stop it twisting, and use shim plates behind it, like the frunts.this I had on the rear for 20 years, and was n probs at all, and easy to adjust.To be honest with you all, this did not get rid of the problem of rear steer, this was only got rid of when the tie bars were ditched, there is alottt of rear steer in there.So if you going to go this route, you might as well go to two arms, or as Rich and Jim were thinking,modded front whishbone.just my thoughts , but every yans got diff thowts. ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 Marcus, doesn't that require tubes etc being welded in to the chassis?Big difference between £100-150 adjustable wishbones and adding more suspension location points? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 jcarruthers wrote:Marcus, doesn't that require tubes etc being welded in to the chassis?Richard_B wrote:Our cunning plan was to adapt a pair of front wishbones and weld on adjusters with tubes to take the rear trunnions. I was planning on welding brackets to the base of the chassis. So there should be no need for tubes through the chassis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 Your both reet,!!!!if you doo it the way I did it originally, then yes, tubes thru chassis, to hold bracket on.as Rich is contemplating,and how mine is now, then its two brackets welded to the bottom of the chassis.Dont no where you getting the 100 - 150£ frae, cos all I used was the old radius arms, with the ends altered for my own positions.1 of the radius arms was bought of Rich for a considerrrrabbbble amount of looot,1£ to be correct. ;)I was one short, so just made one up.But suppose you going to pay some one for dooing it, then thats where the cost will come in.If you doo not want to doo away with the radius arms, I would never put the whish bone back into its original spot, as you will still get alott of camber change,Make em about 14 inch lang, stick em on bot of chassis, and you will have no camber change at all.not from full bump to full droop.Maybe not a priority with skinny wheels / tyres, but in my veiw, still worth while going this route. if you going to the expense of actually making a double whishbone that is adjustable, as you will only need the bott bracket to be welded on, so hoo hard can that be,!!!!If you need full dimensions of lower links then its easy to get em, but in the mean time, here a pick of the original,against the new , note length, as this was figured oot using a mock up.outer joints, but still retaining the castor angles.reason I did away with tie rod, see how its moved when on droop. Tie rod was use originally to get tracking same as it was, so did no need to alter it muchinner bracketsand the old adjustable bracket I wus on about. held on by two thru bolts,with welded in tubes to stop chassis crushing.maybe of some help to you lot,Marcus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyV Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 jcarruthers wrote:Marcus, doesn't that require tubes etc being welded in to the chassis?Big difference between £100-150 adjustable wishbones and adding more suspension location points?Definitly needs tubes welding into the chassis (at both ends of the tubes) Plus perhaps some thicker plate for the brackets to land on as the chassis sides too.I have a front wishbone bracket on each side of my rear cv jointed back end. With two bolts through each criginally with only one welded tube and one just straight through the chassis to stop twisting. Had it like that for about 3 years then on this winter rebuild just gone I took them off to find all sorts of chassis cracking. Rod ends are very unsympathetic!Edit as Marcus posted at the same time, my brackets are well low at the back too to avoid camber change. Where you actually put them will depend on your rear ride height. You want the wishbone to be sloping a very little from the chassis to the wheel when sitting normally so any suspension movement is around the horizontal area. So in conclusion, check how car sits BEFORE welding the brackets in place as moving them is a pain!CheersAndy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 Marcus— my £100-150 guestimate was for the cost of some tubular adjustables that replace the existing heavy cast iron ones. Whilst that might sound startlingly expensive to some— to others who are not proficient in metalwork, welding etc etc it's not all that much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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