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Dolomite Auto engine swap help


Darren Sharp

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8) Help!
Is thereany body out there who can assist me please I have a 1500 Auto dolly with very tired big ends the autobox is sweet and I need to change the engine. I have a rebuilt 1500 engine that was originally in a spitfire . Will this engine fit if I bolt on the backplate from the old one or are there fundamental differences . They look externally identical but is the crankshaft the same? I'm afraid the poor old dolly will have to go if I have to repair the current lump as it is beyond my means at the moment.
Thanks
darren Spitty
PS If you can help can you e mail me direct on sharpbip@tiscali.co.uk as I have had great difficulty getting into the system you couild also ring me on 0780 3044026 or text a No and I will ring you.

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Darren, you'll defintiely need to change your sump and engine mountings but other than that the Spitty lump will slot straight in. While you're at it you'll have to carry your flywheel and torque converter across so's you can use your auto box. Failing that I've got a Dolomite 1500 engine that will slot straight in (you'll still have to carry the flywheel and torque converter over). It was originally in a Dolomite 1500HL and I had it in my Toledo (to replace the engine I killed) for a while until I decided to fit a 1300 engine. The engine's fine and all I've had to do with it is change the engine oil and filter. The only ancillaries I've got are the manifolds and a starter motor with a sticking solenoid.

You can have the engine for free but you'll have to arrange collection. If not then I can take it in my mate's van for the cost of diesel. Also, you'll need to be able to take it out. 3 or 4 people can manage it. When I was at the Spitfire Graveyard on Saturday I saw 3 guys lift a Spitfire engine into the back of a BMW saloon without a crane or even any ropes or chains! Such is the dedication of Triumph enthusiasts!

If you're interested please get in touch.

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The only lookout might be the bolts - I have 2 1500TCs, one auto, one manaul. The manual has different bolts to hold the flywheel on than the auto, although the spacing is the same, making it just a matter of sourcing the right ones (the manual ones are too short).

When it comes to moving engines, 2 people can manage it, but on my own I once ended up stripping the engine to get it out the back of the car (had nobody to help me lift it), and the second time I used an old worn Dolly back seat cushion - Simply pushed the engine out the back of the estate car onto it, no damage or problems at all. Not to be recommended though :)

BTW, At some point I'd like to get a definitive guide to Dolomite 1300/1500, Toledo, 1300fwd, 1500TC and 1500fwd engine compatibility and work required to fit one from a different model, so if anyone would like to make notes, or take photos or anything, it'd be much appreciated :) The idea being to put it online eventually (I don't do things quickly) to help answer these sorts of questions.

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Garry, the Toledo and Dolly 1300 engines are the same. The Dolly 1500s are the same block so it would fit in a Toledo or Dolly 1300. The 3 rail box needs a pre-April 1975 Toledo clutch plate and a Dolly 1500 clutch cover for a 1500 engine and The Toledo/Dolly1300 needs a pre-April 1975 Toledo clutch kit. The single rail box needs a Dolly 1300 clutch kit on a Dolly 1300/Toledo and a Dolly 1500 clutch kit on a Dolly 1500. (Hope you can follow all that!)
I'm not so sure about the 1500TC. I would imaigine that you would apply the same as you would to a Dolly 1500 (don't quote me!) As for autos, I don't know. My experience of the 1300fwd is fairly limited as I never did any major mechanical work on mine before I sold it.

To answer your point about the bolts Garry, I mentioned carrying items across to the replacement engine. As you've confirmed, that would include the flywheel bolts. Is the auto flywheel thicker or something?

Sarah, was the thread on the TDC forum you've mentioned me by any chance? I post on said forum under the same name. I've mentioned my Toledo saga on there also.

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No, it would be this thread:

http://p206.ezboard.com/fthetriumphdolomiteclubfrm1.showMessageRange?topicID=3222.topic&start=1&stop=20

Final precis of requirements halfway down page 2.

Tip, its far far easier to mate an autobox to an engine rather than the other way round. We tried to leave the box in the car...and failed. Take the box out too and mate them together and refit as a complete unit. Swapping thecrank dowels was the hardest bit; one came out easy, the one we needed to use again didn't!

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Thanks for the info so far, something to work on when I take a break from playing with pets and old computers :)

As for flywheel bolts, the auto has a bloody great spacer, must be at least an inch deep, and shims as well. I was trying to fit a 74 engine to a 74 car, I don't know if all later engines had the same bolts or not, but mine were much too short to convincingly hold it all together. Both lenght and headsize are sifferent, and I'm pretty sure the thread is too. The TC has the 3 rail box as well, I'm pretty sure it never came with the single rail. Info like yours, as well as what bolts, starters, flywheels, etc seems a good idea to me, as these questions seem to come up quite often. If anyone has already done it all though, or wants to do it, feel free!

As for fitting engines to auto boxes, I agree - I spent not a short amount of time in terrible weather trying to get the auto lump back in the car, it just would not go the last inch and a half (I reckon it was the box oil pump drive slots not lining up), as soon as I took the box out and slid it on, it fitted perfectly. Certainly worth that little bit extra time at the beginning and end, over hours of frustration and creating new expletives.

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