MissSpentYouth Posted August 21, 2007 Share Posted August 21, 2007 Hi Guys, I have the later low power heavy crank 1300 engine in my 1972 spitfire :-( returning an embarrassing 14.5 second 0 - 60 crawl. I really could do with a bit more mid range torque and think the easiest thing to do is to source a good 1500 unit and swap it over. I have a ford 5 speed conversion in mine and believe if I keep my already lightened flywheel and drill the bolt holes out to take the larger bolts in the 1500 crank I should be OK. But before I go this route is this the best option or should I just try tunning the 1300 i.e. fit the earlier cam, free flow exhaust, maybe a 1500 exhaust manifold and downpipes (can this be done) port the head a little, K & N filters ...Sounds like the cost of the above it would be cheaper to go the 1500 route.Or maybe a Dolomite sprint engine and O/D box can this be done but I guess this would trash my insurance, resale and budget Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted August 21, 2007 Share Posted August 21, 2007 1300 is a much more racey engine than the 1500, it is much more powerfull if done right and much more reliable in the long run.1500 is more of a cruising engine. Stick with the 1300 and do it right, it will cost you less than a decent 1500. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2litre-e Posted August 21, 2007 Share Posted August 21, 2007 forget the dolomite sprint if you have a budget Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted August 21, 2007 Share Posted August 21, 2007 Get a 4-2-1, not the 1500 cast manifold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted August 21, 2007 Share Posted August 21, 2007 Have you considered a small crank 1300 and 4.11 diff? Depends on your driving style, but I would consider this engine far more at home in a sportscar than the large crank 1500 engine. Avoid the 1500 cast manifold like the plague, it's nothing but trouble.Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted August 21, 2007 Share Posted August 21, 2007 Mid range torque......that will be a 1500. Use the 1300 exhaust manifold or better a 4>2>1. Watch for knackered crank though. Still my fav 4 cylinder engine for a spit.Unless you fancy a zetec? And the sprint can be done cheaply (I did, £200 for rusty car plus £40 propshaft) just need a grinder/welder and a few days, mainly making the exhaust! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2litre-e Posted August 21, 2007 Share Posted August 21, 2007 i take it back, 240 pound is very cheap. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burnerboy Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 Beware Mr Sideways when he winks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 2litre_e1182067039 wrote:i take it back, 240 pound is very cheap. :)Twas 14 years ago mind, but apart from the engine/box/rad from the scrap car (engine was blueprinted too, had big receipts for that from PO) it was just getting a prop shortened. I later discovered a prop that was the perfect length. I can't remember exactly but got a feeling MGB?Anyway, I used the existing spit sports exhaust, cut up the dolly exhaust to supply bends etc for the front pipe (absolute nightmare) and used odds and sods for the rest, gearbox tunnel, etc. Car alraedy had gt6 front brakes and hard springs, but I may have eventually got some additinal spacers.That being said it is not a conversion for the fainthearted. Needs lots of bulkhead removing, a bulge in the bonnet and the chassis chopping a bit too. Never cured the high cabin temp from the exhaust frontpipe either :-/. I had to be bloodyminded and get it finished as it was my everyday car, and I needed it straight after the holiday to get to work. Quick and economical, but I would go for the zetec conversion today. Quicker and potentially more economical. A bit dearer, but mainly down to induction costs and buying a megajolt. Tougher unit too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billspit Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 I'm assuming you are talking about the UK version. You should try the US version if you want to see slow. I have a question about the cast manifold for the 1500. I went to great expense to have a European version of this shipped to the US. This is the 4-2 version instead of the 4-1 version we have. Have I wasted my money? What is the great problem? i know the 4-1 we get aways crack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 I used to find they blew every 3000 miles or 3 months, whichever came quicker! That ws on a daily driver. I eventually took out the central exhaust mounting to the gearbox, which allowed the system to hang free, rather than have a fulcrum a short distance from the downpipe joint. That downpipe gasket lasted the next 5000 miles until the car was sold.I wouldn't consider fitting the twin pipe 1500 manifold from choice though, it really is a nasty piece of engineering,Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 Agreed. Stick to the 1300 cast unit or a 4>2>1 tubular jobbie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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