Matt Mason Posted April 2, 2007 Share Posted April 2, 2007 Im currently refitting the bonnet after new chassis change and bulkhead restore. But im fast running out of hair to pull out!!!The bonnet wants to sit to one side and has a gap of 20mm to the doors!Both of the doors fit with a nice gap up the windscreen and to the rear quarters.Do you think it should be possible to get right by bonnet adjusters alone?My worry is i welded the front bonnet brackets/to chassis tube on wrong ( they went back on the old marks from the wrong 13/60 type )Any ideasMatt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted April 2, 2007 Share Posted April 2, 2007 Is the bulkhead in the right place? Did you align the outriggers to the chassis datum points, or just replace old with new? There are so many possibilities that we really need to know a lot more about what you've done.Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Mason Posted April 2, 2007 Author Share Posted April 2, 2007 Hi billIts A secondhand restored chassis And according to the the workshop manual its within mm of being setup right. The bulkhead had new rain gutters and lots of steel let in to get rid of the rust holes. It had no changes to the rear tub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 2, 2007 Share Posted April 2, 2007 is the gap door to bonnet tapered or parallel ??? peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Mason Posted April 2, 2007 Author Share Posted April 2, 2007 The gap is parallel but wide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
100+ Posted April 2, 2007 Share Posted April 2, 2007 Don't put the springs on that engage on the bonnet stays. For some reason, I found removing these, and hence the force they exerted, made the job a whole lot easier for me.Try remanufacturing the little steel plates that the bonnet frame bolts onto. Make them oversize, with really long slots in them, allowing a wide range of adjustment of bonnet position. Do you know the ones I mean?Also, patience! Walking away for a week or so helps out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted April 2, 2007 Share Posted April 2, 2007 You're happy that the chassis riggers are within tolerance and the bulkhead is straight. In theory, the bulkhead is fixed in position with no adjustment. In practice there is some leeway with the bulkhead, but taking the bonnet gap to 20mm would be at the outer limits of any available movement.Producing elongated bonnet pivot plates is a solution which provides further range of adjustment. Bear in mind the side effect that the font overriders will be further forward than intended, relative to the bonnet. If the discrepancy lies further back, the entire front valance will sit forward, so the back edge fails to align with the wheelarch.There are any number of ways to compensate for alignment errors, but there is always a trade-of in some other area. Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
100+ Posted April 3, 2007 Share Posted April 3, 2007 I concur, Bill, on your point about the side effects of elongated pivot plates....mine is exactly as you describe....but better that, IMHO, than a hoofing gap 'twixt door and bonnet.The juggling and problem solving is what makes it fun....yay! (Keep telling yourself that!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted April 3, 2007 Share Posted April 3, 2007 I spent my formative years in test engineering, I'm afraid I get a bit obsessive about trying to fix causes rather than symptoms! In practice there has to be some compromise, we are rarely happy to go back to stage one and start again - it's not like someone's life depends on panel alignments. I may be resorting to elongated plates on my own 1200, the front chassis was cut-off and re-aligned by a previous owner following a minor accident. It's not right, and it's goingto annoy the hell out of me, but I don't want the car sat waiting any longer.....Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 3, 2007 Share Posted April 3, 2007 its of iterest I studied the workshop manual and parts list and decided that the photo shows the slot at the bottom must be engineering wise upside down the bonnet pivot should be on the hole(as there is no bush or spigot just nipped enough to allow rotation) and the up down on the slot, which is tightend to maintain its height position not as my triumph book shows ..????you cant tighten a pivoting bush onto a slotted hole and expect it to work may be its just my boots glasses,,,Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Mason Posted April 3, 2007 Author Share Posted April 3, 2007 Thanks gents i will battle on .....i hope to sort it out once and for all this weekend!!!Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 4, 2007 Share Posted April 4, 2007 if all else fails you may need to tilt the baukhead forwards by packing the rear mounts ,we spent a lot of time getting the chassis right but had to use loads of packers to get the body lines and gaps right, but as you have good gaps A post to glass frame then baukhead sounds about right .. have beer or two peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Mason Posted April 10, 2007 Author Share Posted April 10, 2007 At last ive got resonable door gaps!I did as sugested and made longer pivot plates , in the end it only needed an extra 1/2" of ajustment.All i need now is my hair to grow back where i pulled it out :-/Thanks for the help ;DMatt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 Hair it grows back does it ???? peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
100+ Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 Well done Matt!Peter, I had a think...The elongated holes can be lowermost holes of the plates, and they can indeed act as the pivot point for the bonnet frame, because the adjustment rod linked to the suspension turret will locate the whole lot, and maitain an accurate pivot point.Cheers, Russ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alfie70 Posted April 19, 2007 Share Posted April 19, 2007 [quote by=matt.mason link=Blah.pl?b=hervit,m=1175541959,s=12 date=1176242987]I did as sugested and made longer pivot plates , in the end it only needed an extra 1/2" of ajustment.Matt[/quote]well some previous owner of my car (grr to whoever it was) decided the bonnet was too close to the door on the drivers side so decided to angle grind the top bit of the door off!!!...as you do. The passenger side is still slightly larger however so will use your longer pivot plates idea as it need to move the whole bonnet rather than just the tie rods.Thanks 4 ideaAli Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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