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Hello Dave,

The original relay as is the one you have has a common feed for the coil and the contacts. The lower left wire goes to the horn switch and thence to earth. So when you operate the horn switch you complete the circuit to earth and the click you hear is the closing of the relay contacts. But if there is no power out on the top wire to the horn when the horn switch is operated it does point to a problem with the relay.

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Dave, see them wee folds of metal ont frunt oft relay,
then fold some back, and the innards will pull oot,

then ye can see the workings,
the contact plate will merst likely be corroded up,

clean up wid a fine abrasive file / sandy paper/nail file.
and it,ll be as good as new.

same too for the bigg OD relays

M

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Dave forgive me if you already know this but the horn relay on your car has a single 12V feed with an internal link connecting the contacts and the coil. If Ted lets you have a modern 4 Pin relay you will need to split the feed into two. In the diagram the two parallel terminals are for the coil and the other two the contacts. So you will need one feed going to 87 and one to 86. 85 goes to the horn switch and 30 to the horn.

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Will do Dave - sort something tomorrow.

John just for info, for my 'historic' cars, AFH (very early Mk1 2000) and SCG (Mk1 PI estate) I always use original Lucas cans and keep spares.  
For Woodie which was a much modified Mk2 estate when I bought it I am not bothered about originality to use modern plastic ones ........ out of the stock I accumulated from scrapping Range Rovers.

MUT

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Quoted from TedTaylor
Will do Dave - sort something tomorrow.

John just for info, for my 'historic' cars, AFH (very early Mk1 2000) and SCG (Mk1 PI estate) I always use original Lucas cans and keep spares.  
For Woodie which was a much modified Mk2 estate when I bought it I am not bothered about originality to use modern plastic ones ........ out of the stock I accumulated from scrapping Range Rovers.

MUT


You're a Wombler Ted just like me.  A man after my own heart 🙂

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Ah sorry - sent you the uprated Police spec one  and did not check properly   Your old relay earths through the case so only uses one W wire (feed +ve).

Look at the markings by the terminals.  The wires go to the same relative positions as with your old three pin one.

C stands for the contacts so C1 and C2 are for on and off (or if C3 this is changeover type).

W stands for the windings on the operating coil connected to the switch and earth. So W1 is ground (-ve)  and W2 is feed (+ve) the single wire on your old relay.
To make the earth connection simply put a connection from W1 to the fixing screw.

Does this make sense .......... ?

MUT

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Purple wire goes to horn rim hidden by the steering boss
Should it be live ?
Mine isn't but if I send power down it then my hooter works

I thought it should be live and by pushing the hooter then it's earthed out to compleat the circuit

If I set it up so when a switch is thrown that 12v goes down the purple wire will it cause any problems

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May have answered my own question :-

I'm useing this relay and not the standard one


C1 + C2 is fused power and power to hooter
W1 Earth
W2 trigger feed from hooter switch  

Looking at the wiring diagram the trigger wire should be live up to the hooter button and it earths out to the steering colum,so it should be live.
It must take its feed internally from inside the original relay

I can't see any problem with sending a live feed down the purple wire to activate the relay

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