Lord Sorbington Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 With all the recent repairs its easy to overlook the fact that the car needs a routine service soon.20/50 oil isn't that easy to get hold of , or rather there isn't a great choice in the shops by me.The supermarkets sell a gallon of 20/50 for �5 but it has no API specifications (or similar) marked on it. Halford sell one for classic cars, again with no API spec for about �16. Should I just use the cheapo supermarket stuff? Working on 3000 mile / annual oil & filter changes, and generally A road use.Not sure what oil is in the car at the moment as I had it serviced by a garage last year, probably a modern 10/40 brew - it hasn't needed topped up or even leaked much but I understand 10/40s are probably a bit thin for these engines? Just that there is a better choice and they do conform to recognised standards...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanChatterton Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 Make sure it is API SF spec 20/50 oil.My local factors sells Duckhams Classic 20/50, or the Unipart Green is pretty good too!Don't bother with the Halfords brand Classic stuff, its crap! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 Especially if you are only doing a relatively small annual mileage (like 3000) you will need to use a good quality oil with an SAE spec on it. SF should do, make sure that it's a reputable brand. Long layups and/or short journies will lead to acids potentially building up in the oil, good quality oils will have additives in them to neutralise them. The cheapo supermarket stuff is reclaimed from the sumps you see down the local council tip, backtreated to minimal 20W50 spec with no frills. Great for a high mileage genuine oil burner, but not good for cars that don't get a lot of use. You get what you pay for in oil, however I'd keep to a mineral oil based formulation. The synthetic ones will be a LOT more than £16 for a gallon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordleonusa Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 DO NOT under any circumstances use SM rated oil, it does not have enough ZDDP in it for our flat tappet engines.SF is fine.20W/50 is perfect for our engines.Léon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 I know about the SM problem Leon, but I think that you will drive yourself mad trying to find 20W50 grade SM (at least here in the UK). Anyway to pass the SM spec you need to be using a synthetic basestock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 I use Millers Classic Sport 20/50 Semi Synthetic.£20 a gallon.Need to find a way to get it cheaper.Keeps excellent oil pressure in the spit, even in 35 degree heat on a 10 hour drive.If you want a gallon and will be at The Plough Monday, let me know.CheersColin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sorbington Posted August 17, 2007 Author Share Posted August 17, 2007 Colin, The Plough, is that the one in North London? Probably a bit far for me if so, ta anyway.Just remembered there is one of those farm equipment type shops nearby (imaginatively called Telford Farm Machinery) which is a wonderful place, a bloke can get lost in there looking at the power tools etc. Anyway, I digress....They also sell Morris oils which seem to offer a good quality / cost compromise so will pop along for a look. I've always used decent quality oils in my cars in the past but hadn't realised 20W50 had become slightly tricky to find!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 I've used Morris grease and other lubricants in the past, the Acclaim is currenly using their 15w50 engine oil. Seems OK so far, though there's no oil pressure gauge to see how it performs under hard driving. Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Bennett Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 I used to use Unipart Green 20/50 in my Triumphs with no problem atall. Been difficult to get of late. Bought some cheap stuff earlier in year because needed to change oil. Seemed to degrade pretty quickly as oil pressure on gauge soon dropped once hot under load. Got rid of that after 500 miles!! Now got Valvoline VR1 20/50 which seems very good. Has held good oil pressure (50psi min) under load while towing the caravan to North Wales!! Oil still looks reasonably clean now after about 1100 miles. We got this oil from one of our trade suppliers at our garage and it was about £14.00 + VAT (5 litres) to us so retail must be over £20.00. Based on experience so far would recommend as a good quality oil!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Toledos Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 I always used Duckhams Q 20W/50 in my 2000 MK2, with a dose of 'Molyslip' - Changed every 3000 miles. Never had any problems, and used to rev as sweet as any car I've ever had (not a huge number, granted !). Rimmers sell it; but, these guys are cheaper... and free delivery 8)http://www.4wheelplay.co.uk/duckhams-20w50-classic-engine-p-25000264.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sorbington Posted August 17, 2007 Author Share Posted August 17, 2007 My 2000 leads a fairly easy life, the most it ever sees is an 80mph/4000rpm motorway cruise. Despite only doing about 3k miles a year, most of that is on journeys of 20 miles or more - my modern diesel is for the short hops!!I've never bought oil below SH spec, just wondered if I was missing something with these supermarket brews. I've heard of people with 300k mile 2000s who swear by using cheapo oil and changing it every 3000 miles. The 2000's engine seems OK so I don't want to ruin it for £20 of oil!Incidentally, the oil in my Golf TDI accounts for about £75 of any service, it's special stuff to withstand the shear action of the camshaft operated fuel injectors which inject diesel at, 2050 BAR. Still sounds like a bag of bolts in a tumble drier after driving the 2000! When I bought the Golf, I had the option of fixed 10K mile service intervals, or variable (up to 30K mile) intervals, but the mechanic at the dealership said if it was his car, he'd have the 10K intervals. 30,000 mile oil changes on a turbocharged car? Insane!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordleonusa Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 Thanks Karen,Unlike the UK, here in the USA, almost everyone sells 20W/50, but most of it is pretty near useless for our flat tappet/cam follower engines, as it is almost all SM rated in order to protect the precious catalytic converters!I was using Valvoline's Synpower 'Fully' Synthetic 20W/50 but that has now gone SM as well, dropping the Zinc & Phosphor anti-wear coatings down to around 600 ppm.My choices are becoming limited, to the point I am considering 4-stroke motorcycle oil !!!This is the best guide I have yet found for US oil:http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.htmlRegardsLéon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sorbington Posted August 17, 2007 Author Share Posted August 17, 2007 The bloke who serviced my 2000 is a bit like Fred Dibnah, a great guy. Found a dashpot piston from his 'stock' to replace my broken one!! I'd do it the servicing myself now but since the car had been off the road 10 years, I wanted an objective set of eves to give the old beast the once over.He said he doesn't use cheapo oil, buys quality stuff in bulk. Only trouble is I never found out the grade.....Has run brilliantly on it, and not burned any the last 3000 miles :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sorbington Posted August 17, 2007 Author Share Posted August 17, 2007 Cheers Dave.Does make me think that 10 unnecessary oil changes on the Golf cost £750, which would be enough to buy a good used TDI engine by the time its 10 years old with 250K miles on it..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordleonusa Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 For once, I disgaree with dave, but each to their own.I also know a Fred Dibnah type who uses cheap straight 30wt in everything motorised, and I mean everything.L Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Bennett Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 My Volkswagen Transporter 130TDI I use for my chauffeur work runs on this expensive long life oil. Castrol/Volkswagen Synta retailing at about £15.00 per litre. Can get it for £10.00 per litre in the trade. Lasts for 18-19000 miles before service light comes on (supposedly has sensor to monitor oil condition). Worries me running that long on oil but we service it ourselves at our garage and it appears fine with 124,000 miles on the clock now!!! Still got 76,000 miles of warranty left (200,000/4 year). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sorbington Posted August 17, 2007 Author Share Posted August 17, 2007 A £10 oil and filter change (Fram filter element was £2) Just like the old days!! Is there a B&Q in Telford? No, but there is a T, an E..... Sorry..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 There is nothing better you can do for your njin than 1k oil changes. Then it matters not what oil you use.I run good ole Castrol 20/50 at 5k changes!The missus Frogeye burns/leaks oil so quick, that changes aren't necessary :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordleonusa Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 With the EPA messing around with the oil specifications here it is absolutely neccessary for the longeivity of my ancient Triumph pushrod engine to stay one step ahead!I spent the first 4 months of this year reading everything I could about engine oil and I must say that there is more dross on the interweb about engine oils than almost any other subject, and that's saying something.It also seems to raise people's heckles and cause a very great deal of contention.BTW, Fram filters are pretty crappy.I recommend, (in order) Mobil 1 Synthetic filters, followed by K&N, followed by Unipart.L Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 lordleonusa wrote:BTW, Fram filters are pretty crappy.Do you include Cooper filters in that analysis?Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordleonusa Posted August 18, 2007 Share Posted August 18, 2007 Bill,There are several oil filter analysis sites on the internet, where people have taken a variety of filters apart and laid them out for inspection and comparison.I don't have the URL's handy, but will look on the web and post them here if I get time today.ps. off-topic, but have the uprated steering column UJs come in yet please?L Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordleonusa Posted August 18, 2007 Share Posted August 18, 2007 This is the one I was thinking of:http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.htmlL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted August 18, 2007 Share Posted August 18, 2007 lordleonusa wrote:There are several oil filter analysis sites on the internet, where people have taken a variety of filters apart and laid them out for inspection and comparison.Hi Leon,I have seen one of those sites and I can't say I'm fully convinced by it. I've used Fram filters on various cars since 1987 and I've had no problems. They are one of the few brands incorporating a reliable anti-drain valve, some other brands have valves which are simply non-functional. As far as the familiar GFE150 equivalent filter is concerned, Cooper filters are produced side by side on the same production line as the Fram product. Again, I have been happy to use and sell both types.Quote:ps. off-topic, but have the uprated steering column UJs come in yet please?I have a few tests I'm carrying out before selling more of these. I can see no physical changes compared to those supplied in previous batches, yet several couplings form the last batch have been reported as contacted the suspension turret in use. I want to be able to at least document any potential clearance issues when these are supplied, clearance being the main advantage of these compared to the heavier forged coupling used on the Triumph 2000.Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanChatterton Posted August 18, 2007 Share Posted August 18, 2007 Don't use B&Q oil...........You won't be able to get it for much longer as B&Q went into (un-announced and unofficial at the moment, but it won't be long) administration earlier today.Watch out for the clearance sales everyone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordleonusa Posted August 18, 2007 Share Posted August 18, 2007 Well, I worked for 18 months in an auto parts store and the Fram air filters were ok, but only just and were designed for regular replacement and I expect their oil filters were much the same as far as quality is concerned. Notably, many people here change their oil every 3 thousand miles, and their oil filters at the same interval, cheap always wins in the USA.I use Fram on my wife's 125,000 mile 1986 Ford Camper Van, and Mobil 1 Synthetic, or K&N on my Triumph, my 1997 Toyota 4 Runner and my daughter's 2003 Chevrolet Cavalier. L Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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