99176 Posted August 18, 2007 Share Posted August 18, 2007 Use cheap and dump it often.If I pay more than £4.99 I get vertigo.Round Britain is the longest mileage ever between changes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted August 18, 2007 Share Posted August 18, 2007 AlanChatterton wrote:Don't use B&Q oil...........You won't be able to get it for much longer as B&Q went into (un-announced and unofficial at the moment, but it won't be long) administration earlier today.Watch out for the clearance sales everyone!Damn, and I've already bought my kitchen!Seriously though, is this correct? I'm doing some work for B&Q at the moment ::)B&Q are owned by Kingfisher, can't see anything on their website. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sorbington Posted August 18, 2007 Author Share Posted August 18, 2007 Good old Motorworld - got a gallon of Duckhams 20W50 Classic SF spec oil for £12.99.All I need now is the time to do the oil change, preferably when the car isn't dripping wet after being driven on rainy roads - could be a while away then..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanChatterton Posted August 18, 2007 Share Posted August 18, 2007 Info about B&Q came from a senior Director (in confidence of course!)If you have something on order from B&Q, either make sure you get it in the next few weeks, cancel now and get a refund, or ensure you paid/pay by a reputable credit card, it is then insured against loss etcWatch the papers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted August 18, 2007 Share Posted August 18, 2007 For those in the Worcestershire area.I popped into my local Bromsgrove Motor Factors (BMF) in Worcester and the manager reckons they all stock Valvoline VR1 20/50, so I got a gallon!So those in Brommy, Kiddy, Worcs and Redditch (?) should be ok for 20/50 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisspe Posted August 19, 2007 Share Posted August 19, 2007 it doesnt matter what oil it is if you dump it after 3k or less, and it was my understanding that idling was more of a problem than hard reving cos you get lots of carbon and petrol and crap in the oil. high reving can make it degrade faster but if you change often then it doesnt matter. In our bmws we use nice synthetic oil, they dont seem to coke up the oil quickly and they need thin oil and that seems to work perfectly well with a 12k change but i wouldnt like to do more than 6k on an oil change with an old engine20/50 duckhams is availdable in cambridge along with a load of other 20/50 oils at wilco motorsave or whatever they are called - i think they are a national chain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Bennett Posted August 19, 2007 Share Posted August 19, 2007 Yes Jim thats where we got our Valvoline VR1 - BMF. They have it in stock. Seems to be very good quality oil! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sorbington Posted August 19, 2007 Author Share Posted August 19, 2007 Was grubby from biking and the roads were dry so did the oil change this afternoon. Probably my imagination but they always seem smoother on new oil, don't they? Will look out for the Valvoline stuff, I have contacts in Kidderminster.....Thankfully, the bloke who did the oil last time made my life easy and hadn't overtightened the sump plug. Why do people wang them up to 5million lb/ft? It's not going to fall out!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C Mallock Posted August 20, 2007 Share Posted August 20, 2007 I was running the VR1 20-50 in both 1300 and 1500 along with a collection of Formula Ford race cars, never had any problems with it. Have now gone over the Millers CSS 20-50 which is semi synthetic. The oil pressure stays higher for longer with the Millers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elm-phoenix Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 I was recomended to use mobile 1, 0-40 or 5-40 today so I bought it today but after reading this im woried, was told it was the best to get for mine and at £36 was confident to get what I paid for. was tol by what I consider to be the best triumph specialists company. help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C Mallock Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 Would never use Mobil 1 in a Triumph engine, i know specalist classic engine builders which void there warrenty if Mobil is used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 Now why would they do that? Is it just mobil 1 or all synthetics? Seems daft to me, and John Kipping loved the stuff. He built and sold LOADS of engines, and drove them (with Dave Pearson) virtually all over the world or so it seems. His recommendation is good enough for me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 Its not that its Mobil 1 or even that its synthetic Pheonix.But those numbers are too low!You can get suitable synthetic oilshttp://www.castrol.com/castrol/productdetailmin.do?categoryId=9014063&contentId=7027056Worth a punt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C Mallock Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 I think it was down to the viscosity, one guy ignored it and put Mobil in and the engine ran a bearing (had done a very long dyno session on mineral oil) after less than an hour of track time. I rate the Valvoline VR1 20-50 and the Millers very high as i have never had a problem with either. Have heard that the Duckhams Green is regraded can anyone shed some light on that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Not being funny, but one incident of a run bearing on a trackday is a bit anecdotal. There must be HUNDREDS of engines that have run bearings on mineral 20/50 over the years on the roads. Could be all sorts to cause the proplem, though I can understand being a bit worried if it was me. The actual viscosity of the 40 synthetic is probably just as good or even better than many 50 weight oils under extreme conditions. The best oil would be a 10/60 maybe? I think castrol RS? or the valvoline 20/50 stuff. JK recommended Mobil1 because it was about the first fully synthetic on the market from memory. Still a great oil and super for longevity. I use a vauxhall fully synthetic in my zafira. OK modern motor, but at 15000 miles it is about the same colour as mineral oil when it goes in a car. Very clean, probably go on for 30,000 if I risked it. And that engine works hard, lots of town work and then 2000 mile dashes up the motorways of europe on holiday.Questionable expense for a 3000 mile a year motor though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 That's always been my point. Great if you feel you can afford it, but not necessary. If a good quality mineral oil based product is available for less than half the price, why pay more? Changing the oil more regularly isn't too difficult. If you are only doing low annual mileage it would be a good idea to change the oil annually. The most important thing to do when changing the oil is to change the filter, if you don't then you might as well leave the old stuff in! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elm-phoenix Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 filter changed, put the stuff in the car, I use it a lot and it gets plenty of thrashing especialy as its none overdrive 2L, dont mind price only price of tank of fuel and last a year, if it keeps everything going good for the year (as much ap possible) then it completly worth it. found it only slightly thinner than the old stuff, and tested it agaist the old stuff on 2 old g clamps and both freed up lovely but the new stuff made it glide efortlessly so that made my mind up.so trinions oilddiff filledgearbox drained and filledengine oil drained and filledwatter toped and antifrezedoil filter changedbearing greece done with new bearingswhat else is recomended for lubrication/ smoothness? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99176 Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 Right I've taken all that on board.I shall keep the GT6 on a regular diet of cheapo,and lube all my G clamps with Mobil 1. Sorted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99176 Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 Right I've taken all that on board.I shall keep the GT6 on a regular diet of cheapo,and lube all my G clamps with Mobil 1. Sorted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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