Ridgetone Triumph Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 I have bought a higher amp alternator for 'Big Poo' so the lights don't fade away on the HCR (coming shortly to a county near you :))My little problem is that the original alternator is a Delco Remyand I have fitted a top Lucas product ;)My electrical ability is zero ( I have set fire to most of my cars in the past :B practicing electrics) Which terminals do they attach too?This is a picture of the Delco connectionThe Lucas unit has 2 fat spade terminals and 1 small one, also can not see any + or - on the new alternator.Any help on this subject will be much appreciated :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 this may helphttps://www.google.co.uk/search?q=alternator+wiring+schematic&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=OP0&rls=org.mozilla:en-GB:official&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=fZsmUdvYGsnH0QW2_4GACA&ved=0CDIQsAQ&biw=1060&bih=590M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodders1 Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 There is no + or - connection marked because the alternator is earthed (-) through its mounting bolt to the engine.There are 3 connections on the Lucas unit 2 big ones and a small one. The two big terminals are connected together internally - connect the fat brown wire to either of these terminals.The small terminal is for the dashboard warning light- and MUST be connected for the alternator to work correctly. Connect the brown and yellow wire to this terminal. The fat black wire on your delco unit is an earth and is not used on the Lucas setup.The thin brown wire is the battery voltage sense wire, and is not needed on the Lucas ACR setup, but you can connect to the other fat terminal on the alternator if you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgetone Triumph Posted February 21, 2013 Author Share Posted February 21, 2013 Thank you so much chaps, you couldn't have made this any more simpler, I will be able to complete my change now with confidence 8)Thanks again ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 May the Prince of Darkness not be with you. (nerd)(nerd)Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Nick,if ye fitted a Lucas one, then maybe you need to keep some of this stuff int glove box, just incase.!!!!Going by the info I got, when the wireing gives off smoke, it then has problems.so the wireing needs to have the Smoke put back init, so it works OK agen. :o :oAlso If I were you, that main feed wire will be getting pretty dark in places, due to heat and load. so best to run another 4 /5 MM wire to battery.Could also take a feed off one and run it direct to the lights at front,then not getting a bit of volt drop thru wires.this I did to my relays at front, fuse it of course though.M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgetone Triumph Posted February 22, 2013 Author Share Posted February 22, 2013 Well I have just finished the rewire, everything was working as it should, took it for a 1/2hr run and 2 miles from home the ignition light came on and the voltmeter gauge dropped to 11 volts ??)I opened the bonnet to expect wires fallen off the alternator and it all looks fine, no overly hot and no burn marks, actually it still looks new ;DI did as instructed, the thin brown wire I attached to the fat spade, the big fat brown attached to the other fat spade and the brown and yellow to the small spade, I guess there is something amidst.....Me and electrics :'( :'( I even removed the plug to inspect my soldering and all is fine there too.This Lucas alternator is a 60amp, could it have done something horrible to the rest of the electrics.The car head lights are on relays as are the spotlights.I think I need more help :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Don't assume that just because the new alternator is "new" and shiny that it is any good...... Some of the "new refurb" ones are shocking quality.I recently re-homed a used 80A Bosch one onto my PI. I didn't use the thin brown wire (battery sense) but I did add a short, fat helper wire from alternator output directly to battery positive. Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Don't assume that just because the new alternator is "new" and shiny that it is any good...... Some of the "new refurb" ones are shocking quality. Nothing obviously wrong with your wiring.I recently re-homed a used 80A Bosch one onto my PI. I didn't use the thin brown wire (battery sense) but I did add a short, fat helper wire from alternator output directly to battery positive. Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgetone Triumph Posted February 22, 2013 Author Share Posted February 22, 2013 Thanks Nick, I am starting to think maybe it is the new alternator, I took the one off my TR7 (just to try it) as this is the same as the new one, when I started tightening the long bolt the alternator casing snap clean off :-/, then I discovered that the TR7 alternator is a mirror image ;D wouldn't have fit anyway.I shall send this new alternator back to the MG place.In the mean time the power steering rack let all the fluid out, I refilled it with stop leak, that too is now all on the concrete floor :B Just finished fitting 4 new half shaft UJ's and new super flex trailing arm bushes to try and stop the severe drumming and vibration when driving, it still drums and vibrates (dizzy)Before I know it the HCR will be on us ??) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 What amp output ist new one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Drumming and vibrating most likely a propshaft problem. UJ gone tight in one plane of motion, UJ worn out or knacked sliding spline. Mine is also suspect though ok at legal speeds.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgetone Triumph Posted February 22, 2013 Author Share Posted February 22, 2013 michael_charlton wrote:What amp output ist new one?60amp, according to the firm I got it off it is new not a refurb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgetone Triumph Posted February 22, 2013 Author Share Posted February 22, 2013 Nick_Jones wrote:Drumming and vibrating most likely a propshaft problem. UJ gone tight in one plane of motion, UJ worn out or knacked sliding spline. Mine is also suspect though ok at legal speeds.NickI have been trying to eliminate the drumming for a long time, it is on a second prop-shaft, fitted with 2 new UJ's, new gearbox mount and still it has made no difference, its worse when you hard throttle it from standing after you button off and cruise at 60mph, however if you take your foot off the throttle ever so lightly the drumming vanishes as does the vibration but returns as soon as you throttle again. If you drive nice and steady up to 60mph, and then cruise along at 60 it isn't as noticeable, very strange. I have replaced everything I can think of. My only thought is that the ride height of the diff nose is not right. When I look at the angle of the diff to the gearbox it looks dead level, I thought that there should be a slight angle so that the UJ's do their job? Anyway the drumming is a real pain, just ask 'Rutty' ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodders1 Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 962 wrote:This Lucas alternator is a 60amp, could it have done something horrible to the rest of the electrics. Nope. All this means is that the alternator is capable of delivering 60amps if required without suffering significant voltage drop and/or internal damage.In another post, you mentioned that the TR7 alternator is a reverse pattern. Lucas were clever about that - it is the same pattern of body castings. All you have to do is undo the two small bolts on the end and turn the front casting through 180 degrees.After everything has been allowed to cool down, does the new alternator start working again?If so, fit it to the TR7 and see if it exhibits the same problem - that will rule in/out a wiring mistake or isolate the problem to the alternator itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgetone Triumph Posted February 22, 2013 Author Share Posted February 22, 2013 bodders1 wrote:Nope. All this means is that the alternator is capable of delivering 60amps if required without suffering significant voltage drop and/or internal damage.In another post, you mentioned that the TR7 alternator is a reverse pattern. Lucas were clever about that - it is the same pattern of body castings. All you have to do is undo the two small bolts on the end and turn the front casting through 180 degrees.After everything has been allowed to cool down, does the new alternator start working again?If so, fit it to the TR7 and see if it exhibits the same problem - that will rule in/out a wiring mistake or isolate the problem to the alternator itself.Thanks Bodders1Triumph were a cunning lot ;) just after the housing broke it did cross my mind that the casing might have been able to be turned 180 degrees. I did think of taking the new innards out, but though if I do tamper with it it may invalid the warranty. Unfortunately the TR7 hasn't been started in over 26years :BI will put the new alternator back on tomorrow and try it, if it doesn't work I will send it back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 PeteIf all else fails, you could nip down the road and borrow one from a nicely welded blue Spitfire.Pretty sure that one is a good'unNow if I had been at work yesterday afternoon I woud have read this and sent a good one back with Mark for you to test with.CheersColin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgetone Triumph Posted February 23, 2013 Author Share Posted February 23, 2013 Thanks Colin, That would have worked a treat, never mind there has been such good information here about my little problem.I have slipped the housing around on the TR7 alternator and fitted this albeit with only 2 housing brackets and the ignition light goes out on Big Poo, I put the new alternator back on and the light stays on :B, so I know now it is the new alt that is at fault and will be going back to (hard to say this word....MG ;D for a replacement.Thanks for all the help chaps 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgetone Triumph Posted February 23, 2013 Author Share Posted February 23, 2013 thescrapman wrote:PeteIf all else fails, you could nip down the road and borrow one from a nicely welded blue Spitfire.ColinNar it will be rusty, I didn't de-rust that part of his car ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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