Billy Boy Bailey Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 Hello, My 2.5 GT6 has started running very hot, the needle points to the last section before the red part on the temp guage. It shoots up quickly and stays short of the red on motorways but creeps into the red on slower roads. Bubbles in rad water but no water in oil. Before replacing the gasket I thought I would check the cylinder head nuts, the Haynes GT6 book recomends around 45 lb/in but my Triumph saloon workshop manual gives other figures which I'm not sure is the stud or nut. For the injection engine it quotes a higher torque. My engine was an injection version but now on carbs serial no begining MG5.... Can any one please advise what the correct cylinder head torque setting I should use?Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 705 wrote: the Haynes GT6 book recomends around 45 lb/in but my Triumph saloon workshop manual gives other figures which I'm not sure is the stud or nut. For the injection engine it quotes a higher torque. My engine was an injection version but now on carbs serial no begining MG5.... Its a common bit of confusion, curtesey of the Haynes manual.The MkI 2000 engine as fitted to GT6 MkI's, Vitesse 2000 MkI's and MkI 2000 Saloons has a head torque of 45 lb/ft (3/8" UNF thread, 9/16" A/F nuts)The MkII engine including the PI has a head torque of 65lb/ft (7/16" UNF thread, 11/16" A/F nuts) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Boy Bailey Posted May 11, 2011 Author Share Posted May 11, 2011 Great thanks, I read 45 but I will go to 65 as per PI head. Thans for the confirmation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esxefi Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 just to add,studs only need to be finger tight maybe nip up a couple of lbs/ft.torque loading is always on the nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Boy Bailey Posted May 11, 2011 Author Share Posted May 11, 2011 esxefi wrote:just to add,studs only need to be finger tight maybe nip up a couple of lbs/ft.torque loading is always on the nut. That's interesting because the manuals give torque wrench settings for the studs too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxcorsair Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 Billy boy... I would be interested in your findings. I have a mk1 and followed the torque settings as per the workshop manual without even considering that they would differ for a 2.5l (engine is MM prefix with flat top pistons). Its not on the road but I was running it tonight just making some checks and I notice bubbles in the water... again does not appear oily (though rusty.. flush required perhaps). There are no leaks etc and no temp probs (only ran it stationary for 15 mins) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Boy Bailey Posted May 13, 2011 Author Share Posted May 13, 2011 Hi Boxcorsair, sorry to hear you have bubbles in your water, I have the same problem when I take a bath! The original engine that came with the car had same problem so I changed the head but same problem occured. My GT6 is now fitted with a rebored 2.5 but with the same problem. I've only just run it in when the temperature hit the roof. The head is now off but cant see any blow past or gasket damage. What surprised me was all the build up of black crusty deposits on the piston heads and cylinder head chamber. The pistons were new but now look like they've done 100,000 miles. I'll clean it up and try again; I'm sure I torqued the head to the 65 lb/square inch spec. The 2.0-2.5 workshop manual states cylinder head attachment should be 65-70 lb. I pressume it is reffering to the nut and not stud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 Black gunge is probably burnt oil (valve guides?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Boy Bailey Posted May 13, 2011 Author Share Posted May 13, 2011 Yes Richard, you're probably right. I only replaced a couple. Old man engineer said there has to be some gap but perhaps I have too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxcorsair Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 705 wrote:I have the same problem when I take a bath!... :) The whole lot is getting drained and torqued up today... will report back is that solves the prob... good luck BB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Boy Bailey Posted May 15, 2011 Author Share Posted May 15, 2011 boxcorsair wrote:... :) The whole lot is getting drained and torqued up today... will report back is that solves the prob... good luck BBI ran it yesterday and temperature still up in the three quarters mark and with what looks like bubbles in water. It torqued up to 65 lb ok without snapping any threads. I'll have to go down the route of fitting an oil cooler and perhaps even an electric fan. How's your engine looking boxcorsair?Regards Billy Boy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 BBB,Before you condemn your enghine and rebuild it, think about the thermometry.Is your voltage stabiliser working? If it's feeding a continuous 12V then the gauge will over-read.What about the sender? Modern repros can last a very short time before they go awol. Best to check the actual temperature, say at the hot-end hose of the radiator (the top one) with some other technology. Cheap oven themometer? Temp tabs, sticky labels that change colour to show what heat they get to. They are one-use items. http://shop.ebay.co.uk/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313&_nkw=TEmperature+labels&_sacat=See-All-Categories Or an infra-red pyrometer, now cheap as chips, well, for �10 or so, a lot less than an oil cooler. http://shop.ebay.co.uk/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313&_nkw=infra-red+thermometer&_sacat=See-All-CategoriesAnd what about your radiator? If it's got blocked channels then it can't lose heat, and no amout of 'radiator cleaner' will unblock them. THis is where an IR thermometer is really useful, but a hand is almost as good. Run up the engine from cold, checking the radiator cells as you go. Nothing will happen ubntil the thermostat opens, then it SHOULD heta up all over evenly, from the top. If there are cool patches, or columns, the channels rae blocked. New rad, I'm afraid.And that thermostat? Checked that it does open? Sometimes they jam closed!Good luck,JohnPS See also: http://www.omega.com/prodinfo/temperaturelabels.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Boy Bailey Posted May 15, 2011 Author Share Posted May 15, 2011 Thanks for that John. An interesting thought about the gauge accuracy. The rad was recorred when I initially rebuilt the car but may have silted up since. The water is boiling over in the reservoir bottle and passers by point to the car in towns and tell me it's overheating. I have never had any cooling ducts/panels fitted because I like the easy access and with a Triumph like mine I need easy access each week! Since it began overheating the overdrive has stopped working. What a cruel car. You would think it would let me fix one thing before breaking another. I will investigate further, it's driveable so I should be able to make Duxford provided we don't have a heat wave. 8)Thank youBilly Boy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxcorsair Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 Sounds like you still have your hands full BBB... I didn't get near the engine... decided to bleed brakes and clutch and got into another whole world of pain with leaks an incorrect hoses... just one of those weeks ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 Have you got a cowl around the radiator?I was having severe overheating problems in My 2.5PI Spitfire. I just had to keep plugging away at the problem.I have a good 6-3-1 so I then had to fit an exhaust bandage.As the 2.5 produces more energy (heat) than a 2 litre. I had a rebuilt rad.Also fitted an oil cooler(vertically mounted on side of radiator)I then made up a DIY aluminium cowl that fitted on the sides, top & bottom. To prevent air being allowed to bypass the rad.I removed the mechanical fan as they rob power and only really work at speed, and fitted an electrical fan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Boy Bailey Posted May 18, 2011 Author Share Posted May 18, 2011 No Richard, I don't have a cowl. I checked the temperature with a spare sensor and gauge and the temperature is much lower. I also removed the thermostat which could've been causing a problem. I'll need to drive it on the next hot day to test it. The overdrive solenoid had fallen out and the wire was broken, fixed, now works fine. I'll see how it goes for the Triumph trip to Duxford this month and check out other peoples baffles and cowls. I considered the 6-3-1 manifold but thought the cost too high for the gain in HP. My paint has blistered on the bonnet because of the heat, my TR6 did the same thing. Perhaps an exhaust wrap will work, looks fidley.Thanks for your advice. RegardsBilly Boy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piero franchi Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 HiI would like to point out that our cars HAD to have worked as they left the factory (standard, with out added cowls etc etc etc) or else Triumph would have had more cars coming back than going out !!!!!!!!!!!!Any one with boubbles in the rad HAS to keep focused.Nt always a head gasket, could be a crack some were. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 Piero_franchi wrote:HiI would like to point out that our cars HAD to have worked as they left the factory (standard, with out added cowls etc etc etc) or else Triumph would have had more cars coming back than going out !!!!!!!!!!!!I am sure all the GT6's had side screens in front of the radiator when they left the factory, but many have disolved (They were cardboard after all) and just left off. The cowls available now are just a development of them helping channel more air through the radiator.And of course no GT6 came out of the factory with a 2.5 fitted, well not officially anyway. And no GT6 had a tubular manifold or PI either.A 2.5 equipped GT6 without cowl or valences will probably overheat badly.That said, in these cases, there would appear to be something else amiss as well.CheersColin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piero franchi Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 And your point is????????????????????????????????I did read the hole thred, I know that these cars aint standard, BUT I felt there were getting court up in that issue to much and missing the piont.air in the rad is air in the rad, full stop.a gasket that shows no signs of blowing, prob aint blowing, get my point ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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