Lil Nicky Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 Hi, I'm currently working through my steering and suspension and have come to the stub axles. Could someone advise if the one in the picture looks in good nick? I'm concerned whether the rough dark part is wear or if it was made like that. Thanks Nic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 No picture visible here. You may well have been caught out by the forum's non-intuitive attachment mechanism. I usually have to edit my post a couple of times before remembering which box to click when to wake it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lil Nicky Posted June 3, 2020 Author Share Posted June 3, 2020 How’s this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 That's better. Which "rough dark part" are you concerned about? If you mean the band in the middle of the stub axle, between the two shiny parts, that's normal - it's not a working surface so the factory left it rough cast. If you're referring to the narrow band right up against the vertical link, I think I'd need a close-up photo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteStupps Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 The really rough bit is fine - that's how it was cast. the bearings run on the smooth bits. Saying that, it looks like your inner bearing might have been spinning. The part closest to the vertical link, can you feel a slight lip where the colour changes? I've had issues with new stub axles so would stick with the originals unless they're badly worn. Would have re-used my own but couldn't get them out of the knackered vertical links! Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteStupps Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 ...speaking of vertical links: what condition are yours in? Are they spotless around the top of the trunnion threads? Don't want to open an expensive can of worms for you but they do snap... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lil Nicky Posted June 3, 2020 Author Share Posted June 3, 2020 Thanks chaps, it was that middle rough part I meant. I’ve checked out the colour change by the vertical link and there’s no lip, it’s just darker. Re the vertical link I’ve attached (I hope) a photo for you.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 Quoted from Lil Nicky- Re the vertical link I’ve attached (I hope) a photo for you.... Unfortunately, the photo we need, for the bit Pete wanted you to check, is a close up of what lies beneath the trunnion. You need to unscrew the brass swivel - bottom right in that photo - and inspect the thread that it runs on. Two notes on that: - the trunnion cannot be turned fully with the brake dust shield in place, you need to remove that first - One of the trunnions is on a left-hand thread. Don't mix them up. Oh, and if it's been serviced properly, the trunnion is full of gear oil so be prepared for some drips Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lil Nicky Posted June 5, 2020 Author Share Posted June 5, 2020 Righto, might take me a few days to get in done. I'll come back asap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteStupps Posted June 7, 2020 Share Posted June 7, 2020 Yeah as Rob says, you want to have a look at the state of the threaded part that the brass trunnion winds onto. Here's a couple of photos of mine. Left hand side was probably OK but right-hand one was in a much worse state. Out of interest I had it crack tested by a mate, and there was a crack forming in one of the upper threads. I had considered temporarily putting it back on the car but thought better of it. If you google something like "triumph spitfire snapped trunnion" you can read about the risks at your leisure! Hope yours are in a good state as they're not cheap to replace. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lil Nicky Posted June 7, 2020 Author Share Posted June 7, 2020 Hi Got chance to have a look today. Here’s the pictures.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted June 7, 2020 Share Posted June 7, 2020 Not perfect but I've certainly seen far worse. They're probably OK for road use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lil Nicky Posted June 7, 2020 Author Share Posted June 7, 2020 That’s good news then - much appreciated. LN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteStupps Posted June 7, 2020 Share Posted June 7, 2020 Hard to tell from those photos but they don't look half as bad as my cracked one. I'm sure Rob is correct but just bear in mind that the upper section of the thread bears a lot of stress, and rust pitting on the surface magnifies the stress and can start formation of invisible cracks. Having read many horror stories of them snapping it started playing on my mind, so eventually I bit the bullet and bought new. That's not straightforward though because you start wondering about the Canley trunnionless kit vs repro parts... Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted June 8, 2020 Share Posted June 8, 2020 From my observation, go Canley's and to hell with the expense, and sleep well at night. 😳 Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted June 8, 2020 Share Posted June 8, 2020 Some vertical links....especially the later ones had the lub hole drilled down the length OFF CENTRE...and this contributed/es to the snapping. Having had two snap in the past, I went trunnionless from Canley and drive around corners with gusto, and not having the thoughts of failures...especially around Alpine passes(and auto solos). When you now compare new VL prices Vs Trunnionless kits, there is not a lot in it.........except more piece of mind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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