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sahtuning2000

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I,ve just removed the gearbox from a friends 64 mk1,he was having terrible trouble with selecting gears when the car was hot,the bitting point was on the floor,then it got so bad you had turn the car of,put it into gear and start it!,then it would creep along with your foot flat down!,i said(before removing box)that it sounds like the release bearing carrier bolt has snapped,but upon removal its fine!!!,no signs of bent carrier,the clutch is borg and beck,cover and plate(his bitting point was also VERY sudden),no leaks of slave/master,i bleed these to be sure before box removal,but did notice washers packing the slave to mounting plate,so whats the problem??,i,am wondering if the master internal spring has broken,read this a few times,or the spring in the slave........,he still had the original box,dated 21/1/64.

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i suspect a clutch issue,but all appeared to be fine,i notice when i was undoing the retaining bolts on the cover to flywheel,the centre fingers where moving outwards towards the rear,but a quick check on a spare engine/clutch i had,it does the same,the plate has plenty of life in it,i really wonder if a spring has broken inside the slave/master??,these will be replace by the owner,but i,il dismantle them to see...

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i must admit i would have changed the clutch master cylinders seals FIRST (ssb1238)....that sounds like the problem to me.....out of interest its worth checking the clutch PEDAL return spring if this breaks(and they do) the internal spring in the cylinder then has the job of returning the pedal...thats why it breaks! GOOD LUCK!

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i must admit i would have changed the clutch master cylinders seals FIRST (ssb1238)....that sounds like the problem to me.....out of interest its worth checking the clutch PEDAL return spring if this breaks(and they do) the internal spring in the cylinder then has the job of returning the pedal...thats why it breaks!  However it makes no difference to the clutchs operation...it just makes the pedal lazy also get rid of any washers on the clutch slave they serve no purpose...also check it is a 7/8 inch one GOOD LUCK

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You seem to be saying this problem appears when hot - is it ok when cold?

Does the car have a plastic pipe between master and slave cylinders?  These can sometimes stretch under pressure when hot giving enough lost motion to cause the problem you describe.  Change the pipe for a copper one (with stress relieving pigtail) or a braided Aeroquip one.

Nick

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As well as checking the master cylinder return spring, also check the pedal return spring. If that's broken it can cause the master cylinder return spring to also break and either can cause the piston not to return properly, which means the master cylinder won't be drawing in fluid properly.

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  • 4 months later...

sah ... can you remember the outcome of this little drama?
Might be having something similar ... I replaced my slave cylinder from a worn 1 inch to a recon. 7/8 and two weeks later the pedal isn't returning too well and the bite point seems to have dropped.

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Well i've just had a look at the pedal end of business and there's no sign of any pedal return spring on brake or clutch pedal at all ???

Also the pushrod has a 'sleeve' over it on the pedal side of the dust cap ... doesn't look much like what's in the Haynes manuals. What is it?

Anyone got any ideas I'm a bit stumped?

Should I be trying to find two pedal return springs that are the same as the throttle one?

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Greeks wrote:
...the pushrod has a 'sleeve' over it on the pedal side of the dust cap...


I have exactly the same arrangement. I guessed it was some kind of pushrod travel limiter ,to prevent the piston from hitting the end of the master cylinder bore?

I had to replace my master cylinder recently because the piston return spring had broken and scored the bore slightly. I was told that the pedal return spring being broken (which it was) may well have caused the piston return spring to break. I fitted a new pedal return spring [pn: 114438] at the same time.

Cheers
Daryl.

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Well time and tide waits for no man, so i've been up to see my spares man this lunchtime and he's shown me the pedal box and m/c off the car and the sleeve is indeed correct. He reckoned there's a good chance that i've got a broken m/c spring, so I've come away with a pedal return spring and a m/c spring just in case.

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Greeks wrote:
Well pedal return spring fitted ok, and it seems that there's no play on the pushrod into the m/c so I'm guessing the internal spring hasn't broken.


I'm not sure it's necessarilly the case that detecting no play means that the m/c spring isn't broken. Hopefully that's the case but be careful as if the m/c spring has broken then it may end up scoring the m/c bore if left for too long.

Aren't those pedal return springs fun to fit? :)

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dd829 wrote:


I'm not sure it's necessarilly the case that detecting no play means that the m/c spring isn't broken. Hopefully that's the case but be careful as if the m/c spring has broken then it may end up scoring the m/c bore if left for too long.

Aren't those pedal return springs fun to fit? :)


Great, now I'm paranoid  :) I think that seeing as its operating ok I'll leave it, though.

Return spring - well I was warned that they can be impossible to fit if the pedal box is tight enough up against the bulkhead, but I guess I was lucky as there was just enough room. Not exactly fun though  :)

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