Sam C Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 Hi allI've always found my MkIII GT6 Clutch a bit odd in that I need to put my foot flat to the floor in order to disengage the clutch.When I took the gearbox and clutch out recently to have them replaced / reconditioned I noticed that my Haynes talks about a spacer on the clutch arm, which isn't there on my car. I bled the clutch at the same time as putting everything back in and, although it all works, it's broadly the same as it was before. So my questions are:(a) Should there be some sort of spacer there?(b) Is there any other way to adjust the clutch bite point?Cheers allSam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick B. Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 No spacer as far as I knowI worked round the problem this way:http://www.sideways-technologies.co.uk/forum/Blah.pl?m-1234438222/s-0/highlight-clutch/#num0CheersNick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 or doo as I did, 1, put a packing ring ..behind.. the thrust bearing [ 1/4 inch]this moves the bearing forad, so taking a bit of travel upalso pushes the fork back, so pushing the actuating bit forwards, towards the engine, so that it is starting to act before about 30 degs, tdc [ any thing after 30 atdc degs is a lot of movement for little forward distance of the arm ]before it was about 10 degs btdc and about 45 degs atdc2, use a brake master cyl, this gives moer move ment at the clutch arm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky_spit Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 Nick_B. wrote:No spacer as far as I knowI worked round the problem this way:http://www.sideways-technologies.co.uk/forum/Blah.pl?m-1234438222/s-0/highlight-clutch/#num0CheersNickNick - did this this mod work out okay for adjusting the bite point? I notice that one poster on the DS forum you linked to gave an expanation as to why he thought it wouldn't work; what was the actual outcome? I can certainly vouch for this method working fine on Minis, but then of course they have a return spring on the operating arm to return the slave piston back to it's correct position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick B. Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 It worked absolutely perfect giving me bitingpoint exactly where I want it - in the middle of the pedaltravel.Didn't quite get his reservations on the mod. CheersNick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky_spit Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 Nick_B. wrote:It worked absolutely perfect giving me bitingpoint exactly where I want it - in the middle of the pedaltravel.Didn't quite get his reservations on the mod. CheersNickGood, I thought it would. I think his point is that, after the first depression of the pedal, the slave and everything beyond that point goes as far as the pedal travel allows. When you release it, everything moves back only as far as the clutch diaphragm pressure pushes them (as there's no separate return spring). Next time you press the pedal the slave piston is already at a point in it's cylinder which is only just the distance of the piston seal flex away from almost creating a dragging release bearing. This is what is supposed to make it self-adjusting. However, in practice it never seems to work exactly like this, and increasing or decreasing the effective pushrod length (whether by an adjustable part like yours or moving the slave in it's sleeve) can alter the bite point. This is a well used trick on Minis and works on them whether you use the standard return spring or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam C Posted February 8, 2010 Author Share Posted February 8, 2010 This is brilliant everyone - thanks. I'm afraid that I don't have the skills or tools to build this myself. I don't suppose anyone knows anyone that could? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick B. Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 Sam_C wrote:This is brilliant everyone - thanks. I'm afraid that I don't have the skills or tools to build this myself. I don't suppose anyone knows anyone that could?OK - then the easy fix is to do as Dave did:Sideways wrote:"I "opened" out the groove on the slave cylinder to get more adjustment forwards... Similar, yet less elegant solution.CheersNick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drofgum Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 Sam, Opening out the groove in the slave will work, but beware of the problem Fizzy has had with his. See the thread "my clutch has failed yet again". Good luck, Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam C Posted February 8, 2010 Author Share Posted February 8, 2010 Hmmm... I'll have a look and see what I can do, but have to say I have my reservations about that one given the nghtmare Fizzy has had, possibly because of this. Think I'll ar least mull it over a bit first.Thanks for your help all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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