Lord Sorbington Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 Mine is a bit like this, and there is definately some play in the steering, way inside the limits for a rack and pinion car though. The MOT tester spent quite a bit of time checking my steering over but didn't even mention it so unless yours is really bad I'd be tempted to stick it through the MOT and see what happens.I think there are bushes which can be renewed but when a recon rack (manual) is only £42+ VAT I'd go for the replacement rack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 There is a bush in that end which can be DIY replaced if you are feeling energetic enough. You can also monkey with the shimming in the inner ball joints and adjust the pinion float while you are at it. Don't overdo the latter or the rack will go tight at the ends.But as Sorbs says at 42 quid it is tempting to be lazy!Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 Don't forget that the movement there is accentuated when the wheels are hanging because of the angle at the of the ball joint. Make sure you test that by moving the steering wheel with the car on the ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 The question is for 42 quid would they bother changing the bush ? They can be a bit of a sod to replace... best to put a couple in to make a larger surface area... bit like the clutch cross shaft bush...Originally there was a small nylon bush that located in a hole near this bush and was held in place by the action of the rack clamp.... it effectively damped the possible movement ... it gets lost though :-/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted September 6, 2007 Share Posted September 6, 2007 Keep us updated as mine is developing a bit of play. When I took mine for it's first MOT. the guy gave it an advisory for freeplay even though it didn't have any. I queried him and he said that it was where you mentioned with it jacked up and testing at the axle.I'm getting a little play at the rack now so I'll have to check the shims first where the steering shaft goes in. If that doesn't help I may have to do the same as you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sorbington Posted September 6, 2007 Author Share Posted September 6, 2007 Have you tried greasing it the rack? There is a blanked off grease nipple on the steering rack, supposed to be done annually, don't think mine ever had! May be worth a go, or at least prolong its life. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dizzy Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 The rack on my T2500 (power steering) has a little up/down play even though I rebuilt it 12,000 miles ago to quite tight limits. My MoT tester this year pointed out the play but said it was acceptable on a Triumph because "that is how they were". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sorbington Posted September 14, 2007 Author Share Posted September 14, 2007 Spitbang, just being nosey now, are you happy with the new rack? My steering is definately less sharp than it used to be so going to have to do something soon!CheersAlan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shenderson Posted September 14, 2007 Share Posted September 14, 2007 There is supposed to be a special tool for spreading the rack clamps and compressing the rubbers when refitting the rack.I've never seen one and I had to botch something up using an old scissor jack and a couple of gudgeon pins.If this isn't done you get a lot of lateral movement of the rack body - not good for steering precision or for passing the MoT.An alternative is to use solid rack clamps as supplied by Chris Witor; I have no experience of them.Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyb Posted September 14, 2007 Share Posted September 14, 2007 shenderson wrote:An alternative is to use solid rack clamps as supplied by Chris Witor; I have no experience of them.Gertie has these - we came unstuck when we changed the rack, as they allow the rack to be mounted in any position. We were outside in the pouring rain on the morning of RBRR 2006 centring the rack, as we decided 1.5 turns to full left lock versus 3 to full right lock wasn't quite correct! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sorbington Posted September 28, 2007 Author Share Posted September 28, 2007 I've been looking at the exploded diagram of the steering rack damper but I'm confused. I'm tired and can't really work out its method of operation. Do more shims in the damper = less play, or vice versa? Logically (to me) removing shims should tighten the damper up a bit. Am I right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valencia1 Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 yes, your right Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 Does anyone know the turns from lock to lock on a big saloon? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sorbington Posted September 29, 2007 Author Share Posted September 29, 2007 Should be 4 turns - not sure if PAS cars have quicker gearing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted September 29, 2007 Share Posted September 29, 2007 4 1/4 turns lock to lock, same as Vitesse/GT6. Power rack is quicker, they used un-assisted power racks on the WC cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sorbington Posted October 2, 2007 Author Share Posted October 2, 2007 I didn't get as far as messing with the shims, the play on my car is in the lower steering column UJ. The symptoms are a small amount of free play at the wheel and knocking from the steering when driving over rough tracks etc. I believe that I need to replace the lower steering shaft (non PAS) as the UJ is integral with this. Am I right? New ones actually cost more than a recon rack so will keep a look out for a good used one.Once the slack in the UJ is taken up, there appears to be no lost motion in the rack. I'm aware of slight play on one inner track rod end which I think can be shimmed but it wasn't enough to worry the MOT man. Instead I'll focus my attention on the exhaust, propshaft, rear trailing arm bushes, starter motor, an odd noise which I think may be the diff nose piece bearing, etc etc etc..... ::) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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