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't Kreng; a continuing story


Beans

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Decided to go for adjustable coil overs on all four corners of 't Kreng.
Ordered through the (local) Dutch firm AST-Suspension.
Only problem is that space for rear top mount is a bit limited ...



But that shouldn't be problem as they will make up a set to order 🙂
Also the rear suspension turret is a bit narrow ...



Luckily they can supply rather narrow springs to sort this issue.
The set should be ready just before Christmas ...

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Front suspension upgrade nearly ready ...
Had the brake hoses shortened and other banjo-ends fitted ...



Both struts now in place ...



Front of the car stands slightly higher now.  With the lower spring seat at its lowest setting (with the springs just seated on full droop that is) the car sits a bit higher then with the old struts.
Will first drive the car a bit to see how she handles with the new and much stiffer springs. To start with I have put the dampers at their softest settings.

Only need to bleed the brakes ...

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Drove the car for some 100 miles over the past few days, to sum it up the front is greatly improved;
OK it is firmer (but without being harsh), more precise and overall grip is greatly improved.



Despite being slightly highter at the front , the rear axle lower link stand perfectly horizontal.

Down side is that, compared to the front, the rear feels a bit sloppy now.
Sadly I won't be able to fit the rear coil overs before the NvhO in two weeks time  

Slightly more info in my weblog

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I decided to model the axle and the necessary modifications in 3D, as this gives a much better impression on clearances etc.





Next on the to-do-list are the adaptations to the cars body and a new rear brake set up.

Also the stiffening plate for the back axle is going into production soon and the alloy sheets for the sump guard have arrived too.
Looks like it's going to be a busy summer

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beans,
May I make a suggestion, forged from bitter experience.

My fabricated wishbones are made similarly, with a threaded tube end inserted into the, er, end of the tube.  A ring of weld will not hold.

As well as the ring, drill holes in the tube and plug weld though those onto the insert, to distribute the load.   I learnt afterwards that this correct practice for these inserts

John

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Thx for the warning John, but I think that in this case won't be a problem.
The original rear links I used have very thick walled tubes (wall thicknes ±4mm).
And I chamfered the tubes and the threaded inserts so the weld penetrates right down to the inside of the tubes wall.
Should be more then strong enough, but I'll keep an eye on them ones they are installed.

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Was forced to fit my nice and light alloy hubs to 't Kreng at last, but first I had them anodised in black ...



The reason for fitting them was due to a ... euhh ... rather shot bearing 😲



But there were some problems with the hubs, as they didn't accept the original bolts for mounting the discs ...



Luckily fairly easy to rectify properly.

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Drove the car a few miles over the weekend and it looks like all the funny noises were emitted by the shot bearings.
It has become alarmingly quiet   even the noise of what I thought was a worn clutch releas bearing has vanished.
But as I will be using the DHC for the Wales Tour 't Kreng is put away for the next few weeks. To be continued.

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