Jason
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Everything posted by Jason
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RBRR celebrity entry
Jason replied to Velocita Rosso's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
I managed to find a few episodes of Car SOS online and have been watching them, it's OK, not too staged and not one of those open cheque book restoration shows. It's nice to see some serious anorak moments like how to do cold metal stitching (well almost) but not too much so there's still enough to keep most interested. I think Fuzz would be an asset on the RBRR although I get the impression our cars might be a bit young for his ideal ride :-) I don't have any Pop Will Eat Itself, maybe one Wonder Stuff track but I do have most of what Bentley Rhythm Ace produced. -
Well done getting back at it - to solve your photo issue, have you thought about creating a blog? Easy really, I use Blogger www.blogger.com which is now part of the Google empire but others are available. It means the story and pictures are in one place and completely under your control. If you're a member of CT you can get your posts linked to the forum, if not you can just refer to them here :-)
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With overdrive it's 1.35 litres but basically fill it up, go for a drive and check it, top up if neccessary. This might be helpful to you www.vitessesteve.co.uk for a service manual.
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I just googled where to get the stuff in the UK (I tend to buy it when in the US as it's less than half the price there), no financial interest on my part :-)
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The chances of you identifying a non-Triumph servo on a Triumph forum are pretty slim, you might get lucky so don't stop trying :-) If I were you I would find a friendly motor factors and take the servo to them and see if they can identify it's origins. Meanwhile you could try researching the manufacturers annual reports and public documents to see if they mention which vehicle manufacturers they supply to. A quick Google shows up that they were at one time associated with Honda. Everything can be repaired but at what cost? Often it's more economical to start again from a known source.
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The MT90 is expensive and weirdly coloured but very good :-)
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If you can hear the solenoid clicking and everything else is working OK (no slipping whilst under power) then my first thought would be gearbox oil level. There's are some useful on-line resources you can read through to decide on a battle plan http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/infodatabase/overdrives.html&xsl=infodatabase.xsl http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/jod/JOD1/JOD1.htm Although the TR6 references are for a different box, the overdrive and it's troubles/solutions are very similar.
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Are you looking for some modern synthetic replacement or just what you should use? Assuming it's an overdrive box, I like Redline synthetic MT90 Do a Google search for a supplier - http://www.advantage-motorsport.co.uk/red-line-mt90-75w90-manual-transmission-oil.html?gclid=CPmd78nFob4CFRQbtAodyQQAug There's not a lot of oil in a Vitesse box and it works hard so buy the best you can afford. The manual will call for an EP90 type, just make sure it's GL4 specification not GL5 (GL5 has additives that can be harmful to the yellow metal components in our boxes). Something like this would be OK http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares_Castrol-Classic-EP90-Gear-Oil-1-Litre-ZCA301001_act_shop.product_pID_171044704.htm
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Basically the engine sits on rubber mounts and has a little fore and aft movement on those mounts, although the diff is similarly rubber mounted, it would be almost impossible to get it all perfectly lined up and even if you did, it would all change as the car is driven. So, to answer your questions, in a way, yes :-)
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Doing your own seats is fairly straight forward and very satisfying - it can be quite costly if you need foams and covers.
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8009 wrote: So, Sparky and Jason are speaking some sense. OK - who are you and what have you done with Don??
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Thanks Richard, I think I've got it now - it always helps if your reversing light earths are not crap - once found and fixed it all works as it should although I will have to remake all the connections. This car's previous owner seemed to lick Scotch Locks, I hate them and have been on a witch hunt for them in every car I've had. I do also have two lights on under the dash that seem to be always on and they are now controlled by the door switches! Another thing to investigate I think. Now I have the basic wiring sorted I'll fix all the connections and put it back together enough for an extended test drive as I can't hear the overdrive clicking in. I've been testing with the pump off and coil disconnected as you say - far safer! The was made in December '72. Ferny licking things - it's an image I don't want in my head!
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Thanks Steve that's helpful. I do wish I could "get" electrickery, it's just one of those things that just passes me by. When it works I understand it but when it doesn't I'm lost!
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Be careful doing this, once you start you can't stop and you'#ll open up many cans of worms - stuff that works fine now will fail once you take it apart to clean and paint it! I would say the engine bay is the last thing you need to spend time and money on. As soon as you start to disturb those old wires and fixings, stuff starts breaking. To do a good job everything needs to come off and get degreased, derusted, painted or powder coated and reassembled - otherwise it's going to look amateurish and you run the risk of still not being happy. Get the thing safe and roadworthy is always number one, comfortable and reliable for driving is number two, nice to look at on the outside is 3 then under the bonnet would be last. Don't get me wrong, I like a clean car and I really like a clean underbonnet area but I know what it costs :-)
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Richard_B wrote:Does this help? Yes, but even enlarged on the printer and with my specs on I can't read it :-(
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Sorry Richard, it's a J type - the title of the post is misleading as I think the overdrive wiring is pretty simple now - one wire in from under the dash (the Yellow/Green wire) that goes to the inhibitor switch then to the solenoid and then out of the solenoid as a black wire to earth. It's actually the other wires that had me stumped because there were too many for my small brain! So it's green from dash to green on box (that leads to the inhibitor switch) then out of the switch it's green/purple and that goes to green/brown under the dash. Am I right in thinking then that if I join the two wires coming out of the dash then the reversing light will come on? That's the Green/Brown and the Green? I'll go to it fresh today and it will probably make sense!
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When I pulled the carpets and interior out of the TR the wiring that goes into the gearbox practically fell apart under the dash, the Lucas connectors are pretty corroded. Coupled with the gearbox removal and refit I'm left with a few wires hanging around to reconnect. No problem I thought, until I came to put it all back together again! On the gearbox, I've got the overdrive inhibitor /solenoid wire, that's OK but then I have the reversing lights to cope with, again from the gearbox there are two wires coming from the switch, one green and one green/purple. Then hanging out of the dash are 5 wires! OK two are black and I'm assuming they are just earths. There's a green, a green / brown and the yellow/green overdrive wire. I don't know if it's because I've been staring at this too long or I've just lost the plot but I'm baffled. Does anyone have any reference pictures or words of wisdom for me?
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The standard way of fitting them, if that's what your car still employs, is just a couple of integral clips on the base so I think you just get your hands on the rear edge of the seat base and pull towards the front of the car
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It's a common cause of premature rocker wear, the screw works lose, drops out and the shaft rotates, restricting the oil to the rockers and then they wear. Clean it up, threadlock it back in and away you go :-)
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How are your thrust washers? These keep the crank from moving back and forth in the block - if they wear out (or drop out) then you are left with a space into which the crank can move - as you put your foot on the clutch you are pushing against the crank and if the thrusts are knackered or missing then all you do is push the crank forward - result is no clutch movement. There are lots of other things it could be but if you have had the lot out and looked it over you may well be down to only the expensive options. Are you 100% sure you have the right components in there in the first place? There's a good check list here http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/infodatabase/clutch.html&xsl=infodatabase.xsl including how to check for what I describe above - I hope it's not "thrusted" otherwise it's probably new engine time :-(
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There is a product specifically for this - Meguiars Plastx polish - and it's excellent. Whether it can recover a window that's so far gone is another matter! I have used it to restore soft top windows in the past and it's been quite astounding what it can deal with. I also have a little bottle of the Renovo but I have never had need to try it, the Meguiars is so good. A quick Google come up with this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Meguiars-Plast-RX-Plastx-Plastic-cleaner-and-restorer-polish-/191050421459?_trksid=p2054897.l4275
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Well sort of.... In the original set up, the PB carrier had no anti rotation pin, the TR6 "upgrade" is to use this retro spec but add the pin, however I think it'll be fine without. Yes it may turn but when put under pressure against the spinning clutch cover I think it's the release bearing that's going to spin. In this configuration any wear will be at random points on the carrier, there shouldn't be any wear "dents" forming - that's my theory anyway. I haven't been able to work on it for a few days and won't get back on it until Weds probably, so I should find out by the weekend.
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The anti-rotation pin is actually a needle roller bearing, I think the rotation of the PB carrier is going to be a minor issue compared to the sticking of the cast carrier. Not sure getting the slipper pad set up will work unless I can get all the right components, which might be a step too far!
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Never having seen the slipper pads I can't be sure but another look at the fork and carrier would suggest that there's nothing missing or mismatched, it looks like it's supposed to go together. I did find some plausible advice in the Moss archives, put it back together with a phosphor bronze early TR carrier, leave out the anti rotation pin and polish the nose piece to ensure it's got no scratches or pits. Since that's in agrement with Andy's praxtical experience I think it's the likely way forward. Now I just need to source these bits at the best price I can find :-)
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I thought SUT was Stationary Uncle Ted, hope you recover to be Mobile Uncle Ted again :-)
