Jason
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Everything posted by Jason
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Sticking the business end of the power washer lance in the tank did the trick for me, all manner of corruption including flaked paint (body paint not tank paint) and some unidentified parts came out. I did get very wet doing it though!!
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Thanks Alec, it's clear there are a lot of options! I just found this http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=v9Vkqp4tFEEC&lpg=PA49&ots=VX1c50Duom&dq=triumph%20release%20bearing%20carrier%20types&pg=PA50#v=onepage&q=triumph%20release%20bearing%20carrier%20types&f=false which although an online sample is actually a book I own and was about to refer to - looks like the bronze set-up is now marketted as an unpinned, freely rotating "upgrade". I'll go measure stuff when next in the garage.
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Could it be that there's a mismatch of components in my setup? I'm only guessing here but could it be that the early set up is bronze carrier and no pads? The later set up is cast iron carrier and slipper pads, ie cheap. In my car, by using the later cast carrier but no slipper pads it has worn a 'dent' in the carrier and, combined with the wear in the cross shaft bushes, there is enough movement to create binding of the carrier on the nose extension leading to drag? Or am I taking bollocks (again)? Oh and if I take the nose piece off, will the gearbox oil drop out? I have not yet drained the box and would like to do it after the box is back in and I can get it warm.
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Nope, no sign of anything like that ever having been in there, what are they made of?
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There were no other parts of evidence of other parts - no debris in the bottom of the casing etc so I don't know what a "contact pad" should look like! The fork touches the carrier, nowt else was there - it looked like this which doesn't show any pads, just a fork and it's replaceable pins (I didn't realise they were replaceable and available!) Can you show me a picture?
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Thanks guys, I'm guessing that defects here and there mount up. The clutch action wasn't awful but it did spoil the drive a bit. Andy, there is a smaller dent one side of the carrier than the other, looking at it again, it's not right and obviously means that the carrier isn't operating "square". The Yanks seems to want to lubricate this carrier but that seems to go against what you'd normally do in a clutch and what would you put in there that would stay put for the life of the clutch? So the shopping list is new everything then, with a bronze release bearing carrier then? Is all this the same on the TR6 as on the saloon and Stag?
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No little hats on the fork, the marks look a lot worse in the photos I think. There was no sign of any locking wire but it'll get some when I reassemble. The driven plate looks fine, loads of meat left on it, the plate looks OK too, the fingers are worn but not excessively so. Apart from the release bearing carrier and the cross shaft bushes I can't really see much wrong with it all, which is a pain!!
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Right, gearbox is out. God knows how I'm going to get it back in there but that's another problem! Photos on my blog - it all looked OK to me. It's a cast iron carrier but not excessively worn, it does have some wear "dents" in it though from where the fork touches. I think the issue may be the cross shaft bushes, they are single width and knackered, whether this is actually enough to cause my issue I'm not so sure. I'm going to have a look at the cover and plate next, see if I can find anything obvious there. Any thoughts?
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Thanks for that, there's soooo much on that Buckeye site, I always feel I'm missing something when it comes to finding what you need :-)
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Thanks Roger, everything so far suggests that the taper pin should be replaced when your have the opportunity!
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Right well that's settled then, I'll get the box out - I've rebushed the pedal box, feels a lot better now but it wasn't notchy so I'm positive that isn't my problem but at least it's done and going back in the car now. I'll pull the box tomorrow and see what delights I find in there. The car was restored 20+ years ago and done on a budget as the money was spent in funny places - new floors, wings, etc but a patchwork of old trim back in, some with the mud splashes from the holed inner wings still on it! The structure is sound and the mechanicals good so it's only silly things that need rectifying - I suspect that 20 years ago the quality of the some of parts wasn't that great either - or at least there might have been cheapo options used. I've been rectifying the short cuts and most are sorted - this clutch issue is one of the last I hope. The bronze carrier is available new from Paddocks (as is the cast one) and it does look like the left one in your picture Oh and Mike - I've seen "double" bushes for the cross shaft like this Looks like an easy worthwhile mod. Thanks for the input guys.
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Yeah Mike, I know it makes sense :-) I've never pulled a TR6 box out before, it looks just as much fun as a Herald/Spit/Vitesse! When you say double up the bearings - do you mean just stick two in there?
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At long last I am fitting the new interior I have for the TR - new carpets, underfelt, door panels, vinyl, recover the H frame etc - so it's all stripped out now. I've been chasing a clutch issue for a while, occasionally the clutch pedal seems to "stick"making smooth take up of drive very tricky. I found a missing pedal return spring and that improved things but then it came back so I replaced all the hydraulics, this didn't cure it but again it was a little better. I then suspected that the pedal bushes might be worn so I've just stripped the pedal box out to replace them but they are only very slightly worn not enough to be causative. So, clutch cross shaft maybe? What tests can I do to see if this is the likely culprit before I bite the bullet and pull the box out? I really didn't want to get into that but I'll do it if I have to - might as well throw a clutch kit in too unless it looks really good but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.
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It's ages since I bought mine, I think I got from the States, Summit Racing maybe. I have a recollection I found some good suitable stuff at a ship chandlers so some Googling around that theme might help you. I don't recall paying more than forty or fifty quid for the gauge and sender but that was about 5 years ago. It was a bit Max Power being digital and blue but it did the job.
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I'm up to my neck in TR6 interior stripping at the moment, just replaced a seized door lock too, what a pig of a job! Anyway, PI fuel pressure - yes it's higher than most pressure gauges will cope with and Marcus is right, it varies at full throttle so you really need a gauge fitted that you can read when driving, that's why I prefer an electric gauge. The thing is you really don't want high pressure (106 PSI is good I seem to recall) in the cabin and whilst there are mechanical set-ups that you can create with an isolator, they are not easy to find and expensive. A "T" piece at the metering unit is where to take the feed from and the electric sender units can just screw into a "T" there. At a push I have used a standard mechanical gauge gaffer taped to the bonnet for short term testing. I did find that the most expensive and tricky to source part of the set up was the T piece! The gauges you find generally only go up to 100 psi which isn't the best for us - find something that reads to 150 psi or 8 bar (100 psi is 6.89 bar, 8 bar is 116 psi). To add to Ted's very sensible warning about petrol proof glass, if you're going mechanical, get a damped gauge - this is one filled with some gloopy liquid like glycerine so that the needle doesn't bounce around like a flea on acid with the vibration. Find Vinny and he may have some kits he made up or at least the exact specs and parts origins for you.
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Colin's right, getting them aimed and working correctly in some decent light units is the key. I think the ideal solution would be to have conventional dipped lights and HID mains - so 4 headlight Triumphs are idea :-)
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I'd avoid the Iridium plugs, I don't think those fine electrodes cope well with the PI fuelling. Oh and Colin, your warranty has definitely expired :-)
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=7uw0vFFmPew this is pretty cool, kudo to Andy Thompson for making me aware of it, thought I'd share it here.
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Testing water temperature
Jason replied to Saltddirk's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
Excellent discussion here, makes me feel it's a good example of what the Forum is for and a great bonus to have teased Derek out :-) Thinking about what Derek said, I have to correct myself. When in the Atlas we were often NOT the last in at the check points, in fact at one point I was accused of cutting the route disproved by the full set of signatures we had at that point. I was even seriously questioned as to whether there were two Atlas vans involved in some grand deception!! That said, we were pretty low down the order at the first stop at Blythe. I certainly would never want to put anyone off the RBRR, just make sure they get what they want out of it and have some fun along the way - it is after all something we do not because we have to but because we want to. I'll look out for your form Dirk, it would be good if you could post a few pictures of the car up here - there will be quite a few members who have never seen a Renown and might want to understand what all the chat is about! -
Testing water temperature
Jason replied to Saltddirk's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
Dirk, I'd be happy to received an entry from you in the Renown, I think it would be an interesting attempt. We do have space for you :-) There are a lot of things to take into consideration, not least of which is that running in a Renown would mean no fannying about anywhere in order to stay on time and in the running. Now for a first attempt that is a big ask - it means no socialising at the controls and probably very little time at the breakfast stops. By the first control you are probably going to be at the back of the field no matter where you start (we would try and start you first) and you'll probably stay at the back - that is not an issue but it does mean that you will be running on your own. If you have a problem the chances of any of the field actually knowing you have a problem is slim, the chances of anyone lending a hand is therefore vastly reduced, probably nil. All that means is that you have to be self sufficient in spares, know how and manpower. When Dave and I attempted the run in the Atlas van we were limited to an absolute max of 55 mph and that was down hill with a following wind - that means you have nothing in reserve to make up for lost time. The van was cold and noisy, it leaked like a seize and it wasn't easy to get any sleep in - it rained pretty much all the time that year. The seats were not that uncomfortable given they had no support but it was a hair shirt we both loved - it was so bad it was good. Dave's an old hand at the RBRR and I've done a few - this was a serious undertaking albeit done with a smile. We ended up on a flat bed and failed at 1600 miles - there is still unfinished business there and yes I would do it again but that's another story. Anyway, I digress, in your car you will have it running for pretty much 48 hours solid, no chance to stop and cool down for any of the major components, you might even have lights and wipers on for 48 hours solid. This is hard to replicate but you know your car and whether that is an issue - stuff that's 'reliable' during everyday use of 1 or 2 hour trips might not be so great when asked to function for 12, 24 or even 48 hours non-stop. Headlights and tail lights need to be up to the job - driving in Scotland with no street lights, in the rain on fast roads - you need some good lights to see and be seen. You're right, it's not a rally, there's no rough roads - OK the UK roads can be rough in parts but they are all sealed surfaces. It's not a race, arrive first, last or in the middle and provided you have a full set of signatures, you've done it. However, it is relentless. So, in summary, you and the car are very welcome, just please be sure you know what you're letting yourself and the car in for and as with any of these endurance events, make sure your recovery insurance is up to standard, you have the spares, tools and know how and that you're prepared for the bug to bite and for you to want to keep doing this every two years :-) If you want to have a chat on the phone with Tim or me then just send a private message and we'll ourselves available. -
I can't really remember how I got involved, I think it was a pub conversation with Dave Pearson and then a cunning plan to resurrect his factory prototype V8 saloon. I'd been and seen the cars come through Fleet services one year and thought "this is crazy, I'm in!" I did a few with Dave including my only real DNF in the Atlas Van - unfinished business. I've been round in a few different cars over the years, even tried it in my own car - when I could keep one together long enough - each RBRR becomes my favourite, 2012's TR6 escapade was pretty good, really tested the crew's humour and technical ability but we succeeded in the end. Giving the car a good Italian tune up from Sugar Loaf (after fixing our issue once and for all) was excellent. These past few years have been tricky with time availability, work/travel/home commitments but I'm still "in". After doing a few events with CT I decided I should put a little something back and got involved with the organisational activities, that did often coincide with being in India or at least away from the UK with work but I've always been able to fit it in. It does mean giving up a little time but the effort is well worth it and we have a great organising team at the moment. The challenge is always to keep it the same but fresh, modern but traditional, updated but historic - oh and to not get too serious about a little drive around the country 8)
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Fingers crossed for him and the RBRR Entry. Don't worry, it's safe :-)
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Are the Mk1 wiper switch internals the same - ie can you make up a light switch from a wiper guts? I only ask as I have a feeling I have a wiper switch somewhere and unless it's a 2 speed one, it might be useful.
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Yes, the differences are only in the interior trim I think.
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It's true, the list is a Brake free zone at the moment. It's going to take me a little more time to complete the full list due to work and home commitments but I'll get to it as soon as I can, I'll put up the name of each entrant as I receive the form, the rest will take me a while and I am concious that I have yet to formally acknowledge any entry - real life eh!? Gets in the way :-)
