Gt6s
-
Posts
870 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Membership & Shop
Everything posted by Gt6s
-
JohnD wrote:I remember some time ago reading an explanation of the difficulty of welding cast iron. It's all down to the alloys in the various cast irons, and the best advice is that the native metal must be heated as high as 500C to avoid cracking or and to allow full penetration of the weld. Not easy to do with something as big as as a manifold. John Not just that, the item needs to be cooled down slowley and evenly it is in the cooling process cracking occurs. Laurence
-
JohnD wrote:I remember some time ago reading an explanation of the difficulty of welding cast iron. It's all down to the alloys in the various cast irons, and the best advice is that the native metal must be heated as high as 500C to avoid cracking or and to allow full penetration of the weld. Not easy to do with something as big as as a manifold. John Not just that, the item needs to be cooled down slowley and evenly it is in the cooling process cracking occurs. Laurence
-
cliftyhanger wrote:I picked a spit 1500 one up at stafford for £15, which should fit a GT6 ok Nope they are different on the 4 cylinder, pulley sits further foward than on the 6.
-
cliftyhanger wrote:I picked a spit 1500 one up at stafford for £15, which should fit a GT6 ok Nope they are different on the 4 cylinder, pulley sits further foward than on the 6.
-
Nick_Jones wrote: Realist I'd say........ :P If he's very bad using Triumph parts I must the antichrist ;D Nick Ahh but I have a Morris Garages Metro alternator and oil cooler, a Ford CAS wheel and coil, a Fiat CAS sensor, Vauxhall injectors. Rover SDI fuel rail, Honda TPS and CTS. MAN truck wheel speed sensor, Citroen brake discs, Montego and Rover 800 wheel studs Morris Garages Montego and Maestro wheels and a Bedford CF clutch. Laurence
-
Convert to big T box, fit and forget. Laurence
-
Do not use any form of strong acid or alkaline. You should be able to buy a single piston okay. Just break the rings out then use the broken end of a ring to clean up the grooves. Laurence
-
sparky_spit wrote:Because a new nut may have the thread start point at any position in relation to the flats, and it also may be deeper or shallower, in relation to the face of the nut, than the old one. Correct.
-
If anybody is interested, there are a used pair of 40mm Weber throttle bodies currently on ebay. Laurence
-
3182 wrote:Can I borrow the thread quickly and check one thing? When replacing the front seal on a diff with collapsible spacer is the Nyloc to be reused or replaced with a new one turned the same amount of turns as the old one? Cheers! Old one, preferable with a drop of Loctite. Laurence
-
2806 wrote:Hi The diff still has the castle nut and plit pin arrangement fitted on the input flange. I suppose the idea of counting the number of turns could still apply though. Regards Bruce If it is castleated nut it is not 3.63. Those all had nylock and colapsable spacer the older version you have you has solid spacer on these you torque the nut up. Laurence
-
Yup, Big T A type OD box.
-
5113 wrote:Hi, i changed the front lower trunion bushes, on one side it fits like it should, but on the other side it's literaly floating , meaning if i turn the trunion the bush just fall. Should i leave it that way? Trunnionless conversion.
-
lagerzok wrote:Overdrive Spares in Rugby say that Overdrives love ATF - not sure about the gearbox bearings tho' Auto boxes have bearings in them too. I used to use ATF in the gearboxes of my old motocross bikes, worked great. What would ATF work like in a big T OD box I wonder ? It does allright in the LT77 and type 9. Not talking about sustained road use but for sprints and hillclimbs with regular "ATF" changes. Laurence
-
cliftyhanger wrote:But the koni's are a much better bit of kit ;) No argument.
-
Could be wrong ( remember being wrong once before ) original Triumph spring platforms were held in place with collets, those look as if they may be collet type. Laurence
-
PVC upholstery paint.
-
Richard_B wrote:and then you think "How hard would it be to fabricate a boot floor in aluminium?" ;) Exactly.
-
John from what I have read they are pressed on repro tooling. Tim see you have changed your user name and SHOUT ! If it will bond aluminum to steel, thanks. Laurence
-
Nick_Jones wrote:I reckon adhesive along will be enough. Alot of moderns are extensively glued - but for a competition car, why not fibreglass wings? Nick Nick it is a case of want more than need. Well why not, my rear wings are rotten anyway. Update. With thanks to Dave Pearson now getting an alloy rear valance as well. Laurence
-
4058 wrote:May I ask, how will you attatch them to the car? As the steels ones are obviously welded to the body! Thanks Stickey glue and rivets
-
Just bit the bullet, my rear wings are rotten so just bought a pair in aluminum for the Gt6 from Canley classics. This is going onto a sprint hillclimb car, anybody any experiance ? Laurence
-
1684 wrote:Get the car on ramps and then when the heads off you will have plenty of room to get the sump off undo the bigends. then push the pistons out through the top. It's a days work or two if you take your time. BULLSHIT ! It's not a Spitfire it is a Gt6, not easy at all to get the sump off let alone remove the pistons and rods. Be warned. Plenty of room MY ARSE.
-
1964 wrote: Can the pistons be removed without taking the engine out completely? Yes but it is a proper SOB of a job, much easier done by pulling the engine out.
-
michael_charlton wrote:"Tappety"? Should be a deeper tone than tappety Sure the rocker gear is OK,shaft ,rockers etc Hope your `MOT` man is old enough who knows Triumphs I would agree with that. The small ends rarely give trouble. And yes the pistons have to come out the top of the block.