Gt6s
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Everything posted by Gt6s
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That Weber carb is the stateside way of improving over the single carb on a US Spitfire. You would be far better served by a pair of HS4's from a UK 1500 and this will give a far more direct inlet tract.
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Gt6s wrote: I run to seven on modded stock rods and balanced crank. because my cams powerband is four to seven. I should add to that, even though the cams powerband is four to seven. Due to the engine management she has smooth idle, lots of low down grunt and completly tractable. But she really starts to pull hard after four. Not bad for a competition cammed engine on 46mm direct to head throttle bodies considering it is "tuned wrong".
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339 wrote:"If you need much more than 6k on your 2.5 one could argue that you've tuned it wrong" Who said anything about "need"????? Yeah who mentioned "need" exactly. I run to seven on modded stock rods and balanced crank. because my cams powerband is four to seven. Okay soft cut limiter is set at six eight, hard cut at seven. The build of the engine allways was to run this high rpm. A rev limiter is a must ! Kastner found that the 2.5 crank came into a state of uncontrolable harmonic imbalance at seven two. I have not encountered a problem.
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sparky_spit wrote:I echo all the above. I fitted a Honeybourne one about 4 years ago and it took many, many hours to get it looking as bad as it does. My ones too.
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184 wrote:Hmmm...Is there anywhere these cars don't rot... They only rot between the bumpers. Include the bumpers.
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cliftyhanger wrote:It is important to understand the amount of effort required to get most fibreglass bonnets looking half decent too. They are not a straightforward fit UNDERSTATEMENT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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michael_charlton wrote: Not sure of exact weight in Kgs..........but it takes, four men with two long wooden poles to take the weight..........which is what we had to do to lift ours from the chassis onto a new chassis ??) Sure you had'nt left a bolt in ?
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michael_charlton wrote: Not sure of exact weight in Kgs..........but it takes, four men with two long wooden poles to take the weight..........which is what we had to do to lift ours from the chassis onto a new chassis ??) Sure you had'nt left a bolt in ?
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1381 wrote:"Is it an MG?" You, watch your fecking language.
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Do not know the weight but you can store them vertical resting on the bulkhead. How do I know this ?
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Do not know the weight but you can store them vertical resting on the bulkhead. How do I know this ?
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1819 wrote:One of the pedal strengtheners is in the wrong place, more in-board than usual... R Thats normal for a LHD body tub, to make room for the wiper motor.
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1381 wrote:Nope the latest Megajolt also has correction, +/- 5 degrees. That's okay, I remember being wrong once before.
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Nick_Jones wrote: Yes, you can apply offset with Megasquirt. Better to get it more or less right in the first place though...... Don't know about 'jolt. Nick Ahh right Megajolt, I think it has to be manually set correct.
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sparky_spit wrote: Then a sensor bracket welded on the timing chain cover, with enough scope for rotational adjustment. Job done, well, in my head anyway. Is sensor position not covered by the software ? I know mine is but then I am not on Megasquirt.
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99176 wrote:I can't see any spring eyes, but that could be an age thing. Fabricated uprights ? Yes there appears to be no safety loops over the rear spring eyes. May just be my ageing eyesight too.
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Flanges on rear hubs, plate mounted for bias pedal box.
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339 wrote:On the Gt6 I bolted it the engine fan boss. This does mean that the trigger wheel is on the front of the pulley and if I need to change the fan belt I will need to remove the sensor to do so. I had the crank balanced with the wheel in place but didn't position it. sods law says that when I came to fitting the Vr sensor the wheel needed to be rotated about 80deg . This hasn't affected the balance as far as I can tell. The way to mount the sensor is to weld a bracket onto the timing cover so that sensor is inside the run of the belt.
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You can cut down the dashpot, damper tube and piston rod it takes very little to gain enough clearance, you only need to do this on the front carb (and cut all three by the same amount.) A lathe is handy for cutting down the dashpot but it can be done without one. I have this done on my Sixfire.
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PaulB wrote:Although kind of wished I saved some money and went for a regular 123 Distributor as I haven't taken advantage of its programmable features. Then get your laptop out and have a play.
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1381 wrote:Yes, the previous information you received about it being not needed was incorrect. It gives you extra advance on cruise conditions, which enhances fuel economy and is very much worth having. Agreed you deffo need it conected on the programable version.
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339 wrote:My original spring has an aluminium tag on the clamp nut with "FRONT" stamped into it That is what it should have.
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Nick as you say the Weber Alpha ECU is Weber dealer programable only Revington would not have been involved in the mapping dispite having their own rolling road. Laurence