shedmonkey

After my exploits getting the spit on the 10CR last year I feel for them all !!

nice one -give me a shout if I can be any help !!

Tim this its what happening see attached pic- When I1  is greater than I2 meter will indicate "discharge" When I2 is greater than I1 meter will indicate "Charge" you have connected the relay contact (not the coil) to the battery + hence you will draw a current in the direction of I2 hence giving a false reading of "charge" -actually about 9.2 amps is being drawn all the other circuits draw current in the direction of I1 hence showing a "discharge" indication  proportional to the current being draw by those circuits. When  the dynamo spins and generates DC it  charges the battery but only if the draw (LOAD) of I1 is less than its controlled output if I1 is greater than the max controlled dynamo output  the batery wiill "discharge" and you meter will indicate so In normal operation the dynamo produces enough to feed I1 and have some spare for I2 ie keeping the battery charged-The control box sorts that out Think of the ammeter as a flow meter- "discharge" is a flow away from the battery(header tank lets say!) to the cars circuits "charge" is a flow into the battery(header tank) you are fooling the flow meter as you have cracked open a  drain valve on the header tank!!! Leaving your fog light load drawing from where it is will give you a false reading in which case why bother having the instrument?! I shall bring a length of wire with me to the start and wire the relay contact feed to the control box O/P!!!  :)

9.16 amps P=IV  ;)

This is a better diagram  http://htmlimg2.scribdassets.com/4c8ko9p4sgby447/images/4-27c1fef0cd.jpg

Tim found this wiring diagram From what I can understand you have connected your load directly to the + terminal of the battery  you load should really come off A1 on item No5 which I am guessing is the controller for the dynamo -hard to tell with out the full diagram!

I thought something looked odd as I was packing spares 5 mins ago-anyone want to swap a 2000 water pump for a 1500 water pump at the plough?- my spare for the 2000 is new I thought I had a new spare for the spit...hmmm no I used it in the run up to 10CR amazing what you remember whilst ratching in the shed-the 2000 one looks the same apart from bigger pulley I glanced at it the other day an assumed it was for the spit ...doh!

what I should add is when you car ammeter indicates "discharge" its still measuring flow of current -the amount of current its measuring  is   the current flow in the  circuit ( a circuit which is powered by the battery on its own which will "discharge" over time if the alternator is not charging)

Guys don't forget electrons actually flow  neg to pos http://mste.illinois.edu/murphy/HoleFlow/default.html -just to really annoy you! The ammmeter is in series -it will be a moving coil meter with a shunt ,the deflection is proportional to the flow of current -that's exactly what you are doing measuring the flow of current  .....ammesters dont measure "charge"   http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/magnetic/movcoil.html What sort of alternator have you fitted and what is the reading with the engine doing 2,000 rpm and the sides/fogs on On another note I think  you are not meant to be able to to turn fog lights on with main beam (could be wrong often am!) hence I wire fogs feeds from the dip side of the main switch (obviously via an interposing relay hence the current goes through the 40 amp rated relay contact and not through the  tin foil "lucas prince of darkness switch" contact!)

Thats pants really really hope you can fix it

yep- as per pic there is also a little washer http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/ImagePopUp.aspx?i=GRID005602

3122 wrote: I've considered buying them, but how do they fit? A few people have asked how I fitted the blades meant for "hook" arms-so here are a couple of pics Remove the plastic clip that comes with the blade and reuse the plastic clip that came with your original bayonet wiper -see pics simples!

Ah if you mean what I think you mean That pipe is part of the jet! has it pulled out of the union on the float bowl? there should be a little rubber grommet/o ring on the end of the pipe that makes the seal and stops the fuel leaking out -can be a pain in the arse as they harden and dissitergrate this is what you need http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-AUD2194

I want to see the "last minute" gang at the start and at the finish! On a personal note - I want to complete as much of the run with the roof down! first time we have done it in a soft top! and see it as a fresh challenge I would also like people to know that "my boot is always open"! and if I have a bit/thingy bob self tapper botch with me they are welcome to it and my help to get them to the finish!

not sure I have a spare in a bag will go look- I used it as it was modern and had a nice spring loaded bulkhead fitting -but any cable will do that you can crimp or screw you own ferule to -lots of people on here seem to be using push bike brake cables

the valeo ones come with adaptors (I couldn't find valeo in 11" - the Taxi is 14" )in the box -so do some bosh ones I had a box full of adapters as I never throw stuff out  these are for "hook" arms keep the plastic adapter from your old ones take the hook adapter off these ones and fit yours straight on - I think ours are H1 fittings?

this looks cheap ! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300637655517?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 free postage!

not to everyone's taste -including mine! but fitted modern areo wipers to the spit today after the success of them on the TAXI RBR 10 -they work sooo much better than the standard "classic" blades -Alex you will vouch for that after driving the Taxi in the rain alot! :) in 2010 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-Aero-Flat-Beam-Upgrade-Windscreen-Wiper-Blades-11-11-/270878200262?forcev4exp=true&forceRpt=true#ht_1428wt_952

its got to be the diff? due to the title of the thread?

oh come on give me a clue it it on a white bit or a black bit?

did the bracket fit? !

For what its worth I have home made air box with remote filter,tubular manifold and a home made 2" system to single rear box running ATT needles- seems spot on

3020 wrote:Ta for that Colin ...just sizing up the options Doug here is my plate All dimensions are approx as this is shedtune and is a bugger to measure in the car! overall plate size 45mm x 120 mm Measuring from TOP of plate throttle cable hole approx 18mm from top- this is a Renault traffic van cable Measuring from TOP of plate two small (approx M6 holes) 43 mm from top and 78mm from top these are central I recommend drilling one hole bolting it on marking the others then drilling them Hope this helps

If you get stuck I don't mind robbing bits off the taxi but would have to post bits to you let me know if you get to the touching cloth stage!

Alex wrote:I've got a gauge but no way of connecting it.... If I whizz it over with the rocker gear off theres nothing from the hole at all :( Oil light goes off though.... Alex plan of attack Check oil pressure relief valve Get one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OIL-GUAGE-PIPE-5-AUSTIN-ROVER-MINI-UNIVERSAL-/271050542766?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f1bdf0eae#ht_500wt_969 lash up a pressure gauge so you can see whats going on Drop the oil carry out oil change If got good oil pressure which you must have otherwise the engine would have expired?- external feed pipe like Nick suggests