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shedmonkey

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Everything posted by shedmonkey

  1. shedmonkey
    Apart from 1500 spits without over drive being held at 5,000 rpm for several hours on the Continent def need a cooler!!!!
  2. shedmonkey
    I used an oil temp sensor off ebay (two wire tc)  and a second hand Audi temp gauge calibrated it at work using an hot oil bath amazingly the set up was accurate to about +- 1% FSD(I'm a time server inst tech in old money)  total cost was about a tenner, machined up an inline adapter to take the 1/8" NPT thread of the sensor now located BEFORE the oil cooler thermostat so I can see at what temp it opens .... haven't actually tested it on the road yet as been bogged down with other stuff but will let you know how it works i the next few weeks! PS agree with everything else said on the thread-don't fit a cooler without a thermostat!
  3. shedmonkey
    Tend to agree with Tim re 2.0 vs 2.5 I'm going back to a MK1 2.0 in the Taxi for two two reasons I like the revvy 2.0 and to bring it back to pre 68 classic status for the regs so when I sell the children on EBay I can get back to some historic rally events As for spending all that money on shiny engines etc I would hold off and decide what you are building it for -ie adventure endurance driving,track days,racing,rallying ,12 car ,or everyday use etc etc and to find out what you like doing you should get some driving experience under you belt ..any way that's just my advice from a 42 year old grumpy old git that's been driving old shed Triumphs for the last 24 years..... Christ I feel old..!
  4. shedmonkey
    My advice cough up the insurance and have fun caining the 1500 within in an inch of its life for the next year ...take it on the 2013 10cr and any other event you can afford to ente.....   then buy the shiny bells and whistles if you still feel the need :)
  5. shedmonkey
    Homer had a few "issues" around Lancaster to Lands end causing a can of Lynx deodorant to be inserted into his anus by his team mates
  6. shedmonkey
    Silkolene 20/50 -Opie oils do some great on-line deals All though Silkolene haved stopped doing that particular oil - I bought up 10l a few weeks ago as a stock clearance deal, cant recommend Opie enough! http://www.opieoils.co.uk/ Shove a bit of STP in on an older engine to help out a bit?
  7. shedmonkey
    Agree with Krusty on this one you might have a problem with your 7J   if you are using MK2 back end- Have a word with CW My Mk1 with mk2 back end using 14x6J has  a "pie eaters finger width" clearance to the lip of the arch
  8. shedmonkey
    only if you put them in the boot!
  9. shedmonkey
    jcarruthers wrote:The Mk2 shafts on my 2000 have made the wheels far too close to the bodywork - in fact too close as I had to bash. My wheels are only 5.5 6J and no problems?! I womder why?
  10. shedmonkey
    Must admit when I looked at it I thought your wheels looked "too tucked in" if you see what I mean-go to a MK2 rear end -are your revs 6J? should still fit- my cheesys are 6J -but do have a skinny tyre on Hve you lowered it too much? CW does the spacers etc to compensate -cant remember the ins and outs or the rear geometry would have to read up on it
  11. shedmonkey
    timbancroft61 wrote:I need to get my rear alignment sorted! Oh dear Tim I find with the onsett of age a couple of pads help.... whats wrong with it? take you have superflex bushing? and the Datsun drive shaft mod? if not do it -transforms the car Greeks and Ellis have complimented me on my tight back end
  12. shedmonkey
    Greeks shut up you big assisted knocker the only thing making your car twitchy is the nut behind the wheel  ;D As an aside I have a nice 14" flat steering wheel lifted from a Morgan covered in cream "snow tiger fur" it compliments my efeminate black buckskin string back driving gloves Been running these 175/80/R14 Firestone tyres @ 28 psi all round- what is the recomended pressure?
  13. shedmonkey
    rule of finger when put back toggether correctly should be able to just about rotate the top mount using one finger and should be zero play left right/up down etc
  14. shedmonkey
    yep top mounts dont need a grinder or a good twating as the dark lord says thrust washers act as rotating surface,use a little graphite grease when putting back toggether if you have shortened springs you may not need a spring compressor original insert nuts tend to be castle jobbie with a split pin,replacements tend to use self locking nuts,replace these self lockers or pien over to make sure they dont come loose causing the insert to rattle about in the top mount- good exploded diagram in the haynes manual
  15. shedmonkey
    Strut top mounts are the prime suspect I did the sheds just before the HCR much better but my strut insert had come loose in the mount on the RBR and shagged up the mount a bit ,running skiny 175/80 R14 tryes (because they came with the wheels and have lots of tread on them !) car handled bloody great (I had put ARB on for the HCR as well) lighter steering but nice feel when the corners tightened up on me a couple of times in Wales just put a bit mor lock on and a smidge of throttle and it kept gripping and turning in fine much much nicer feel than the 185/70 R13s with a dodgy strut top mount! Bottom ball joints are not to bad to do James -use a grinder to get the old one out slice the bottom off it and twat the f**ker ,refiting reversal of removal without the grinder!
  16. shedmonkey
    and some more!  http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=in22fgqPhWQ
  17. shedmonkey
    here you go another great RBR moment  http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=stR3Lnw3UTE
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