uksnatcher

1344 wrote:I've had one of these fitted for about 3 years now there a dam site cheaper than the others, well they were I think I paid £15 delivered. I did buy a spare which is still unopened in the glove box ! I wonder how many sets of points or condensers I would have used, of course I might not have used any. You must have the correct type of dizzy fitted so check first !   You beat me to it Dave.... ;) Cheap and Britpart but works perfectly ok in my 45D4 and has done for 3 1/2 years of hard motoring for me and Dave, we bought them at the same time from here: http://www.mm-4x4.com/britpart-electronic-conversion-kit-2721-p.asp Plus 5% discount off the price if bought from the website Britpart part number: ETC5835K http://www.lrdirect.com/ETC5835K-supplied-by-britpart-branded-britpart.html Designed for Landrovers and originally sold for just 7 pounds about 5-6 years ago, same item sells for around double that now

Bullets are fine as long as you replace the flat glass with a convex one. I like mine  :) Replacement glasses here: http://www.classic-car-accessories.co.uk/acatalog/EXTERIOR_MIRRORS.html Pair about a fiver delivered,Ref: CME1600

Bullets are fine as long as you replace the flat glass with a convex one. I like mine  :) Replacement glasses here: http://www.classic-car-accessories.co.uk/acatalog/EXTERIOR_MIRRORS.html Pair about a fiver delivered,Ref: CME1600

Thanks Keith, another to add to the list, I have amended it: Here are the pt nos for all the Mann double anti drain valve filters that fit a Spitfire or Herald 4 cyl engine with an adapter 5/8 UNF to 3/4 UNF W 717/2 - 76mm wide / 100mm high W 713/9 - 76mm wide / 100mm high W 719/29 -76mm wide / 123mm high W 724/1 - 76mm wide / 142mm high W 830/3 - 84mm wide / 122mm high Without adapter: W 713/14 - 76mm wide /100mm high Don't know Sheepy, French distributor - UK name ???  Don't really care if I can get 2 filters to my door for a fiver then magic fairy dust fuelled flying pigs can delivery it from never-never land....lol  

Shame the seller is so high on postage costs, I just got x2 of the W724/1 filters delivered via tracked 3 day UPS courier to my door for total price of five pounds 30p via the Mr Auto website......from France to UK????? go figure that out,  how can they possibly be making any profit on that 🤔 Send me your address via PM and I will see if I can send you some filters out to you at a proper price nang... 😉

Its recommended to soak the felt seal in oil and some say compress them in a vice squished between two pieces of metal plate overnight as well. If you go the soak and squish route, I wouldn't cut them in half.

Not sure it will squish, but nice sharp Stanley knife and cut it in half will do..and a couple spare then too  ;)

Most oil filters cheap or expensive come with the 1 silicone or rubber membrane anti-drain seal and are ok in stop-start operation, the double anti drain filters fitted to our engines are a must seeing as they usually get used after a long sitting in a garage situation. My little video of a startup after a long stand with the Mann filter fitted will be the same as yours Keith....no more startup rattle, guaranteed... ;) (excuse the exhaust on the chassis rattle...now sorted :) ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFzaK6fkVxc Please add your comments to the thread in the techy section as there is only me, Marcus and yourself who have publicly tried the Mann filters (ok)

7801 wrote: Question, Doing the castle nut up finger tight doesn't go far enough to line up with the hole in the stub, I'm going to try refitting the hub on the weekend, bearings seem well seated and spins nicely, any tips for doing this? I don't want to over-tighten of course. I believe it's finger tight then back a flat or two to get the correct end float (cant remember the number off the top of my head). As long as the bearing races are seated home and the stub axle is fitted right.....finger tight then back a flat or two to get the correct end float is correct.....this screams out the felt seal is wrong/too wide See this thread as Dave found out: [Sorry, link no longer available] New felt seal Original felt seal

Forgot to add if you have an oil cooler sandwich plate fitted you need this 5/8 - 3/4 adapter: http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=18321

Keith wrote: I'll let you know how I get on with the Mann filter, maybe we can get Tina & Andrew to stock the adaptors in Club Shop if it proves a popular mod. K You wont regret it Keith, and the Wix 24037 adapter 5/8 - 3/4  is readily available in the US but all sellers wont ship to UK??? Thanks to Goody and Clive there are a couple available..(clap) And if you have an oil cooler sandwich plate fitted you need this 5/8 - 3/4 adapter: http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=18321

Just a note to add, the large 93mm wide W 940/20 filter WILL NOT fit, just too wide it fouls the suspension turret  (angry) I have amended the list: Here are the pt nos for all the Mann double anti drain valve filters that fit a Spitfire or Herald 4 cyl engine with an adapter 5/8 UNF to 3/4 UNF W 713/9 - 76mm wide / 100mm high W 719/29 -76mm wide / 123mm high W 724/1 - 76mm wide / 142mm high W 830/3 - 84mm wide / 122mm high Without adapter: W 713/14 - 76mm wide /100mm high Also..... Some good deals around on the W 724/1 filter (tall one I have on at the mo) for 3 quid delivered.... 🙂 http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=W+724%2F1&_sop=15

That's fairly local to me in Bolton IE Manchester area.....cheers. Look forward to seeing the results Benny..(wink) Noisy Chrome Unit 9e Kayley Industrial Estate Ashton-Under-Lyne OL7 0AU http://noisychrome.tk/

Handy if you suffer from fuel vapour lock, force the fuel upto the carbs before trying to start a hot engine One of these inline priming bulbs I think you mean? Cheapest quality one I could find: SEALEY VSE055 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEALEY-VSE055-DIESEL-PETROL-INJECTION-FUEL-PUMP-PRIMING-TOOL-WITH-CLIPS-/310760778266?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item485ac92a1a

796 wrote:Before I went Engine Manage ment, I run a Pirahna, or Newtronics as they are know noo. Had no probs at all with it for 20 odd years. they used to be in Southport area, but noo seem to be in London area. http://www.newtronic.co.uk/newtronic/ M I love the old Piranha sticker you got with them units.....scary..!  :D

932 wrote:have seen this question come up a few times, when i first put my spitfire on the road i didnt check if it was GL4 or GL5, turns out it was GL5 and do have an overdrive, done just over 20k and still using same brand of oil and no issues with anything slipping or going wrong, guessing i could just be lucky though? rich Depends how you drive it Rich, nice and steady slow gear changes and forgiving o/d engagement speaks for most long lasting trannys. Hammer it with rapid gear changes will start 'beating the syncros'  and not letting off the gas when overdriving with GL5 slippy oil will lead to premature wear eventually.  

Wim....Barum are associated with Continental's budget brand range and made in Czech Republic. They used to make rubber soles for shoes... ;D  

GL5 in the GL4 spec diff....yes When GL-5 first came out it was indeed corrosive to brass. But only at temps above 250*F/121*C. Now since it is impossible to get any street driven gear oil to that temp (It is hard to get engine oil that hot!), there will be no problems using regular GL-5. However, additive MT-1 which is tacked onto the end of all GL-5 oils you can buy today. With this MT-1, GL-5 oil is not corrosive at any temp. GL5 in the older GL4 spec gearbox and overdrive....no Additives in the base oil to make GL5 spec will make it too slippy, will make syncros and overdrives crunch or slip. The difference between GL-4 and GL-5 is the extreme pressure capability. On surfaces that have high pressure where metal to metal contact will happen, the GL-5 is way better at protecting. Diff gear teeth are constantly meshing.

I wouldn't but ATF in my gearbox, its bad enough full with GL4 parked downhill and a centrifugal coil type input shaft seal/housing... :( Suppose a watertight rubber sealed input shaft would be ok tho.. :)

I think the Victory edition stripes look great on a brightly coloured car, like this one...... Topaz Orange with black decals will look fab Beans...(ok)

ferny wrote:Not true. If Steve was in full action and coming towards you you'd be able to see is rear numberplate. (whistle) That's because I was driving then..... :P Just a note to add that the question of legality has been brought to me. The legal requirements for fog lights not spot lights wired as main beam Is maximum distance from side of vehicle of 400mm There is no minimum height but cannot be higher than 1200mm They must be wired switched, to work with dip beam or side lights only Must be white or yellow. Must be adjustable and not dazzle oncoming road users IE standard bulbs and aligned correctly Spot lamps wired to main beam only can be as many as you like and have no positional requirements other than they must be inside the headlamp dip beams. No wattage limits and as my car is registered pre 1st April 1986, lamps require no British Standard or Approval mark. Must be white or yellow. (so my fog lamps are not legal/wont pass an MOT as greater than 400mm from the side of the vehicle, but the HID spot lamps are fine) The Road vehicle lighting regs are here: http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1989/1796/contents/made#tcon 7919 wrote: Ooo, I like this idea. Looks fairly simple. Was it easy to do (for a complete nonce like myself!)? Hi Tom. (I think you meant 'novice' not 'nonce'   :D.... :) ) Yes easy to do, wiring is the same as any additional lamp, + and - to 35w ballast unit > ballast unit to dedicated HID 4300k bulb. (4300k bulbs are nice and white, any higher k bulbs and they turn blue) You just need room for the ballast unit and two wires that drives the bulb,  but like I said the lamp housing may need 'adjusting' to suit the bigger HID bulb. Mine just fitted but I have seen plastic housings heated and stretched using a heat gun and a screwdriver handle to create a 'bulge' (ooooh err) to accommodate the bigger bulb.

ferny wrote:Not true. If Steve was in full action and coming towards you you'd be able to see is rear numberplate. (whistle) That's because I was driving then..... :P Just a note to add that the question of legality has been brought to me. The legal requirements for fog lights not spot lights wired as main beam Is maximum distance from side of vehicle of 400mm There is no minimum height but cannot be higher than 1200mm They must be wired switched, to work with dip beam or side lights only Must be white or yellow. Must be adjustable and not dazzle oncoming road users IE standard bulbs and aligned correctly Spot lamps wired to main beam only can be as many as you like and have no positional requirements other than they must be inside the headlamp dip beams. No wattage limits and as my car is registered pre 1st April 1986, lamps require no British Standard or Approval mark. Must be white or yellow. (so my fog lamps are not legal/wont pass an MOT as greater than 400mm from the side of the vehicle, but the HID spot lamps are fine) The Road vehicle lighting regs are here: http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1989/1796/contents/made#tcon 7919 wrote: Ooo, I like this idea. Looks fairly simple. Was it easy to do (for a complete nonce like myself!)? Hi Tom. (I think you meant 'novice' not 'nonce'   :D.... :) ) Yes easy to do, wiring is the same as any additional lamp, + and - to 35w ballast unit > ballast unit to dedicated HID 4300k bulb. (4300k bulbs are nice and white, any higher k bulbs and they turn blue) You just need room for the ballast unit and two wires that drives the bulb,  but like I said the lamp housing may need 'adjusting' to suit the bigger HID bulb. Mine just fitted but I have seen plastic housings heated and stretched using a heat gun and a screwdriver handle to create a 'bulge' (ooooh err) to accommodate the bigger bulb.

As you can see, no spot lights visable.....but hiding away, all nice and quiet are two very powerful HID spotlights that are truly fantastic.....they blow away any halogen/xenon bulbs fitted to small spotlamps 8)    The Lucas lamps you are looking at will look very period but will be ornamental in operation, they are not that good... even if you fit over-powered bulbs IE 100w/120w/even 160w bulbs, but you will probably melt wiring if you go too far with halogen bulbs. The HID conversion I did was experimental, using plastic housing Ring spotlamps but the HID bubs don't get that hot and throw so much light out, they are a permanent fixture on my car now and recommend the conversion to any spotlamps, downside is the HID bulbs are quite large and they may not fit in some lamps/housings.

As you can see, no spot lights visable.....but hiding away, all nice and quiet are two very powerful HID spotlights that are truly fantastic.....they blow away any halogen/xenon bulbs fitted to small spotlamps 8)    The Lucas lamps you are looking at will look very period but will be ornamental in operation, they are not that good... even if you fit over-powered bulbs IE 100w/120w/even 160w bulbs, but you will probably melt wiring if you go too far with halogen bulbs. The HID conversion I did was experimental, using plastic housing Ring spotlamps but the HID bubs don't get that hot and throw so much light out, they are a permanent fixture on my car now and recommend the conversion to any spotlamps, downside is the HID bulbs are quite large and they may not fit in some lamps/housings.

Hi wim. Yup, as M. says nice and hidden and have modified them to HID now.....well worth the expense soooo much better.. :)