uksnatcher
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Everything posted by uksnatcher
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We managed it........mainly on 5 cylinders......... [/URL]
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Team shorts ready to go, setting off in half an hour for the stress free overnight trip to the start .......... 😎 😆 Cya all in a bit chaps .....!
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Czech (just in case) and Austrian vignettes ordered from here.....about £18 delivered (22.90 EUR) https://www.tolltickets.com/country/europe/europe.aspx?lang=en-GB&mnu=c As used on the last 3 10CR's....great service, fast delivery.
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Double anti return , valve and membrane on that Mann filter.......worth every penny All explained here: [Sorry, link no longer available]
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If the new starter has no bespoke alloy spacer already bolted to the starter.....IE designed specifically for the GT6..... The spacer is needed, and not the one from your old starter, its probably too thick at about 15mm the teeth will partially mesh and quickly wreck your ring gear/starter...... needs measuring. The ideal spacer is 10mm, the Triumph 2000 starter has a spacer thats 7mm thick and is a direct bolt on replacement fit, with no teeth meshing probs... ;) Or........get your spacer skimmed down at a local machine shop. This applies to GT6 and Spits too
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From Mintex: Bedding Procedure for M1144 / M1155 / M1166 1) Clean discs with brake cleaner 2) Following initial brake test start with 3 – 4 light applications from 30mph down to 0mph. After these, follow the steps below according to Material. M1144: 6 / 7 medium pressure applications 70mph down to 30mph M1155: 8 / 9 medium pressure applications 90mph down to 30mph M1166: 9 / 10 medium applications 90mph down to 30mph When carrying out the bedding process, do not allow the brakes to drag, do not left foot brake. To do so may result in damage to, or failure of the brake system. Leave the brakes to completely cool.
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Update on the large Massey Ferguson 'stack pipe type' oil filter Good idea with added 0.5lt oil capacity.... but after a long stand the startup oil pressure is dire,compaired to the Mann filter. Just like the small standard single valve filter Internal stack pipe filters are not as good as the double anti drain Mann filters....!
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Grooved discs help clean the pad of glaze and gasses, modern quality OEM non asbesdos pads dont glaze or gas, they are ceramic based so never glaze. Holed discs increase gas escape, modern pads dont need holes to gas as they dont gas. We are talking race or very fast road disc applications here and the drilled grooved discs using ceramic based performance pads in normal use .....useless overkill, just vented discs are needed ...........but grooved drilled discs do look very sporty ;)
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Cant find the report on the compounds but i think EBC Greenstuff met OEM standards with just 15% more ceramic compound than EBC Ultimax which is OEM standard,which is marketing fun...Redstuff is almost 1144, Yellowstuff is almost 1155 compound, Bluestuff is track only and Orangestuff is pro race.
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Wim...Mintex 1144 are ace, they are a good all-rounder pad as they work from cold, and bite very well in all conditons.... like OEM modern pads and for your style of driving IE the odd spirited drive, they will out perform any other cheaper pads, without brake fade unless you REALLY hammer them then they will suffer from brake fade as you are using solid not vented discs.....but they recover very quickly without after effects like 'cooking' IE glazing, as the older asbestos pads or cheap 'cardboard' pads do .....rendering the pads useless. They do produce quite alot of dust tho, be prepared to clean your shiny Revs after a run.... ;) Greenstuff pads are OEM quality, very good for normal use but push them and they overheat and brake fade will happen, the same as standard Mintex MGB533. Redstuff pads are 1144 quality IE higher ceramic compound than OEM....and around the same price as the 1144's: http://www.ebcbrakeshop.co.uk/triumph-1500-15-721973-ebc-brakes-redstuff-pads--front-dp3106c_p1169681.htm I had the same problem with the part number when i ran standard calipers/discs, they HAVE to be 'Mintex MGB533 with 1144 compound', not just 'MGB533'... these are just standard Mintex OEM grade pads....good... but dont stand a hammering.
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Installation of electric fuel pump on 2000 Mk1
uksnatcher replied to Jonny-Jimbo's topic in Electrical
Facet 'silver top' and regulator set at 2.5psi on mine, no bother or leaks for 4 years now. Add decent ethanol resistant R9 rated petrol hose to the list too ;) -
I didnt feel the need to improve the fantastic Philips X-Treme halogen H4's in the main headlamps to be honest, they are plenty bright without the added potential police interest of 'over bright' headlamps as i dont think they are strictly legal without auto beam adjusters.....didnt want to take the risk ;)
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They are dual spot/driving lamps IE 2 units in one lamp unusal , i like em. The outer driving lights have amber lenses 100w xenon bulbs, the inner spots have 35W 4300k HID bulb conversion.....no problem with dark nights.... ;) plus no cutting of grille + no airflow issues for cooling
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Or the knob has been super-glued or suchlike to the arm by the PO?
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Dan dan Daaaan.....its Gaz..... :) Bill....Its actually a mini milking machine to attach to the local farms cows (or sheep....not fussed) udders.....saves a fortune compaired to supermarket prices.... :P Sometimes i use it as a triple air horn compressor too.... ;) ;D
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Thats my car This is how I mounted my fan temp sensor, drilled and tapped the thermostat housing to 3/8 bsp (the thermostat housing fits TR6 too i belive.... Stanpart number: 134681 ) and used a sensor with a good temp range and short probe found the 1.0 lt 1989-92 US spec Daihatsu Charade 92-87degree (fan operates at 92 deg - switches off at 87deg) about a £10 on ebay ....and i must say works perfectly on both std and wide radiators i have fitted ;)
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The PCD is 95.25mm or 3.75" If its the offset or ET you mean........you may be able to answer your own question by measuring it accurately, i use 2 long steel rulers (or 1 ruler and a long straight edge metal bar) and a flat floor Wheel face down or curb side down on the floor - straight edge across both backsides or car side rim edges, ruler down the center hole, measure distance from hub contact to straight edge (back spacing). Measure curb side rim edge to car side rim edge, then half that figure....that is centerline. Subtract the rim to hub contact measurement (back spacing) from the half width measurement (centerline) and you have the offset :) :
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9442 wrote: Now, regarding the fan switch... try not to laugh too hard.... the DPO connected it straight to the hot side of the ignition.... no fuse.... turn the key on, the fan runs. Turn it off, it stops... ??) ??) ??) ??) Various methods available for fan control: Kenlowe bulb sensor in top hose: Kenlow bulb sensor attached to rad: Elec sensor soldered into rad: Elec sensor in top hose: Elec sensor in thermo housing: As you can see many ways to control the elec fan......or put a mechanical/viscous fan back on... ;)
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Same symptoms i had on my 1500 IE overflow bottle filling/overflowing with no suction back into the rad when cooling. No white smoke or steam from exhaust. This went on for a few months. It was the head gasket slowly starting to fail, as it started to missfire and white smoke eventually, comfirmng head gasket failure. Pulled the head, cleaned it up and fitted new headgasket. The coolant system works perfect now, i never have to question the overflow bottle, its always half full and the water level under the radiator cap is always full. Good price for a box of bits inc a new full width Spitfire radiator ! ........good buy and just get it fitted, no extra length hoses needed, the 1500 should have had the wider rad from factory.. :) Just looking at your pics, you need to find what operates the elec fan, i am assuming a sensor or probe? That needs testing or it will overheat if faulty. Low comp in cyl 4 could just be sticky piston rings from standing? Doubt it tho :( Also whats the cylindrical gizmo at the side of the overflow bottle with pipes running to it?................is it a charcoal/carbon filter for emmisions control?
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Yes Chris....i totally agree, avoid Comma Sonic/Motorway/Classic 20/50 and also Halfords Classic 20/50 aka re-branded Castrol GTX. Best stuff is VR1 20/50, Millers 20/60 ......Penrite 20/50 or 20/60 is good oil too.
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Heres some Q&A's from Valvoline about VR1 and Valvolines non street legal Racing oil: http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-oil/racing-oil/ Quote: Which oil has more zinc/ZDDP: VR1 or "Not Street Legal" racing oil? Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil contains .13 percent of zinc and .12 percent of phosphorus compared to the Valvoline "Not Street Legal" Racing Oil which contains .14 percent of zinc and .13 percent of phosphorus. Some test results from this Porsche forum: http://rennlist.com/forums/911-forum/526946-oil-analysis-of-valvoline-vr-1-racing-oil.html Quote: it does indicate it meets or exceeds API SM requirements. According to information I dug up elsewhere, the Z&P content is around 400 ppm too high to meet the 'official' API SM requirement which if I recall is 0.085% or so. They get away with it as its marketed as a very low volume racing oil which typically is used with older cars without 'cats'. pdf files: Valvoline spec sheet: http://rennlist.com/forums/attachments/911-forum/389162d1254264046-oil-analysis-of-valvoline-vr-1-racing-oil-vr-1_racing_motor_oil.pdf Oil analysis report: http://rennlist.com/forums/attachments/911-forum/389163d1254264062-oil-analysis-of-valvoline-vr-1-racing-oil-d89441.pdf VR1 or the other Valvoline racing oil is fine, plenty of ZDDP for our cars and the Porsche chaps rate it from facts not hearsay.
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Good little video here with a honest report on the various valve types you can fit, apparently the Grosse ball type valves suffer with vibration, have a watch.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=82YNx-RkGNI
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Nice one...! (ok)
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Yes, simple fixes first. If the bulb is not lighting on ignition at the key, it wont charge, check the bulb, work backwards from the bulb. Feed the bulb at 12v from the alternator wiring, simple wire from battery + terminal to wire going to bulb, if it lights up the bulb/wiring is fine, alternator is faulty. If the bulb dosnt light with the direct 12v feed, its not the alternator, its the wiring to the bulb or just a blown bulb.
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michael_charlton wrote:after the 10 CR etc, I crawl out of the cockpit with all bones creaking.....at which point certain members deal out Ibuprofen tablets ;D...... Old bones mate, never mind good stuff on the Spit...you need some grease nipples on the elbows, hips and knees....told you before, Indian Brandee for everything....... will sort your wind problems out too :P ;D