uksnatcher
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Everything posted by uksnatcher
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Hi wim. Yup, as M. says nice and hidden and have modified them to HID now.....well worth the expense soooo much better.. :)
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My LUK kit was £45 but NOS from ebay on a lucky bidding auction.... :) I cant find a retail outlet mj but I do know you can find a bargain (Bullet mirror glasses... ;) )
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The expensive LUK kit has 3 rivets: Whats the attraction with NOS old clutches? Full of harmful asbestos and from what I can remember as a kid, my dad forever doing clutch and brake jobs on his cars? I understand better workmanship 'back in the day' but I would have said more modern friction materials and R&D would make a modern clutch more desirable?? Harder modern friction materials will cause flywheel or clutch cover wear quicker I know, but the matched clutch cover will be designed to take the wear rather than the flywheel and will last sooo much longer and no harmful dust??
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Assuming your 1500 has the 20 spline clutch plate.....easy to identify tip The B&B, Delphi and Quinton Hazell clutch plates have 4 damper coil springs in the spinner plate . The LUK plate has 5 springs Fitted a LUK kit in my 1500 spit off ebay a couple of years ago and no probs so far....(LUK are oem suppliers of clutches to VW and Audi so wont go wrong) Looking around, the only LUK kit available is about 300 quid, were as the B&B either genuine rebranded or copied ones are about 60 quid and the QH are about 100 quid
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If its a 1500 and the flywheel/ring-gear is off a Dolomite 1500 (same engine) the spitfire starter wont mesh with the Dolomite ring-gear as its a different tooth profile. If the original starter motor is the long inertia type then its a spitfire ring-gear fitted. If its a 1300 then the spitfire HT starter will fit with a thinner shim than the standard 10mm, about 5mm thick ( a 2000 saloon starter shim is about 7mm and fits perfectly so should do the job)
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Some reading for you....... (plenty more using the Search button above).....;) [Sorry, link no longer available]
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Spitfire bolt holes are 82.5mm, Gt6 are 89mm, MGF are 80mm Rob. Some fiddling with the holes are needed mate.... ;)
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That_Man wrote: That link is for a Radial mount caliper not a Lug mount as per the MG TF item. I would assume the mounting holes would be the same spacing as the std MG caliper which I "think" are 3.5" Gordon Nice spot Gordon..sorry for the duff info chaps.. :B The mounting point is 80mm centre to centre - Standard MGF/TF caliper lug fixing Info from the Q&A's from this ebay seller: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MGF-Trophy-Cup-AP-RACING-CALIPERS-BRAND-NEW-Inc-PADS-SUIT-305mm-DISCS-/151118486055?nma=true&si=nHWkYei%252B8DU0D2aJKueq5yeevk0%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
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The MGF alloy caliper is a Rebranded AP Racing product. MG part number is CP7601 from the AP 7600 range. Here are the specs if anybody likes doing the sums... ;) http://www.apracing.com/product_details/road_car_upgrades/road_brake_calipers/4_piston_calipers/cp7600_family-130mm_mounting_centres-suits_%c3%b8295x24mm_disc.aspx 130mm between locating bolt holes (5.1")........... so no, it wont just bolt on. STANDARD CALIPER BOLT HOLE DISTANCE Type 12/14 caliper (Spitfire) bolt distance 3.25" (82.5mm) Type 16 caliper (GT6) bolt distance 3.5" (89mm)
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I would say the caliper is too wide, for a reasonable conversion. MGF use 16"+ alloy wheels with these calipers, the std 15" wheels foul the upgraded caliper, look how far into the wheel they go. I know they are using the larger MGF disc which will throw things a bit, and are way to big for the spit and look like they sit further inboard than the Capri/Saxo/Montego discs too. Heres some pics of them and fitted to an MGF with 16" wheels. These look BIG calipers and doubt they would fit, will need a lot of thinking about and engineering to make them fit the Spit with Triumph wheels (standard or after market) or MGF wheels and Capri/Saxo/Montego discs, probably need a huge hub spacer to bring wheels out enough to clear the calipers, kinda defeating the object of reducing unsprung weight.
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I agree with you on the QH (Quinton Hazell) items of any flavour being good quality items and 6 yrs+ with no complaints on the couplings has got to be good. From past reading on here I believe the manufacture tools from QH have been acquired via auction from the original factory liquidation so fingers x'ed just as you say. I don't think polybush would work either. The polybush coupling is ok in a direct non flexing environment, great for vibration dampening but no good for excessive suspension movement or harsh torque. Ford,Mercedes etc fit them to their vans in rubber form on the gearbox flange for the prop shaft IE direct straight drive, no flex. Marine applications for propeller shafts pollybush couplings are ideal, no vibration through the hull, straight through drive, no flex. So either CV conversion or source decent rubber couplings for our motors me thinks, I bet somebody has bought them 200 quid couplings tho... :o
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Thanks Dave So basically the 400 quid a pair couplings are possibly no better than the 80 quid a pair aftermarket ones, will do the job but don't expect too much from them. Have you looked into the polyurethane coupling alternative as a product you could confidently sell? Looks like Quillers have not stocked them now for some time, quality issues?
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I can see the demand for an alternative coupling as by all accounts the aftermarket ones are rubbish .......how much for an original....??!!!! http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GCD301 :D I believe the problem is getting the metal bolt inserts to bond to the polyurethane as the couplings deflect at large angles and have to handle the twist or torque involved too?
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Any oil is good oil...short-term but what is in the oil is the main thing and what long-term damage will be done by adding the wrong spec oils. ATF or synthetic low rated eng oil is thin oil so will find oil leaks...but what if its oil tight....... the oil has additives or lack of additives that will harm the soft metals in the O/D or balk rings/synchromesh systems so why alter the manufactures spec oils? One example ....Peugeot spec expensive aluminium based gear oil for their gearboxes, people who knew better put cheap normal EP90 or ATF gear oil in and wrecked their gearbox.... Stick with what is tried and tested by somebody else with big pockets IE manufacturers, saves a lot of bother.
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4058 wrote:(I'm not frightened of trying it! I'm frightened of liking it) ;D ;D ;D You know what they say......'don't knock it.... until you have tried it' Ohh dear me....(images in my head now)...... (mad).......subject back to bulbs...please....(whistle)
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Sunday driver or general fun car Lucas/Bosch no problem....expect a re-bush or replacement unit...eventually.. :P High mileage, dependant everyday car, fit and forget Denso unit, will be good for 100,000+ miles
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Looks like a musical horn setup, can it play Dixie... ;D https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s3HaqEwRIvY
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4058 wrote: Ooooohhhhhh!!!!!! :) :) :) :) :) Me thinks Sheepy is a tad excited at the prospect of the postman depositing his load ;)
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Note the brands of tyres differ in tread profile, the 15" 205/50 in Avon form fitted no probs on the rear but some Marangoni's rubbed on large suspension movement at the arch and inner wing, and semi-slick track tyres rubbed all the time with liitle movement. I opted for the Avons curved end tread profile after some trial and error but tight. 185/55 would have fitted no probs at all width wise but close to the end of the wheel arch. I have the longer 1500 drive shafts on my mk4 and no mud flaps. You say they are hitting the mud flaps, is it a diameter problem or width problem you have Tony? It is a squeeze fitting the 15" in the rear with tyres that assist the suspension IE a flexible sidewall.... is it not worth simply removing the mud flaps? Looking at this photo of yours ( I just LOVE those seat covers...! ;) ) compared to mine, the tyres seem a little close to the flaps, indicating set too far back are you getting any tyre scrub indicating radius arm fault/toeing in or out?
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bobyspit wrote:Gaz has a few pics of his car with MGF wheels on. But handling may be different Rob Cheers Rob, Some reading material and pics from last year nang if you remember posting them... ;) http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1342694972/s-all/
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heraldcoupe wrote:The original seal is a simple lip profile. Standard Triumph used at least two variations, presumably using two suppliers simultaneoulsy, but this is the basic profile to match one of the originals. The profile used was never a bubble section, what's shown above is a front valance seal profile, Cheers, Bill. Whoops....sorry all :B (I know now tho ;) )
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Its the power of the beast underneath trying to escape Sam...! ;) Whip the seal off and see if it sits lower without one fitted, if so get a smaller seal/correct seal/trim what you have down....? Should look like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-SPITFIRE-MkIV-1500-GT6-MkIII-QUARTER-VALANCE-RUBBER-SEAL-716200-/350715778554
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How about getting the bushless flange cleaned out , if that's sticky it can lead to problems.. ;)
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Hi Iain (are you in Burnley mate? Next P&P meeting? ) Looked at the remote filter with bypass filter built in same as yours but I thought the trickle feed long life bypass filter was a little pointless if using mineral oil as the oil has to be changed every 6 months anyway unless you are using fully or semi synthetic oil. The cost of the synthetic oil, filter housing and filters, pipework and non return valve put me off TBH (tight arse.. ) but the extra filtering can only be a good thing and hope finding a 1 way valve is not too hard.. Gaz
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No luck finding a supplier of the 5/8 unf filter so far but if you could convince one of these US sellers or maybe one of our US forum members could buy some and ship out, these 5/8 to 3/4 unf adapters for use without an oil cooler you could use the easily available 3/4 unf filters : http://www.ebay.com/ctg/Wix-24037-Engine-Oil-Filter-/76028267 Wix part no: 24037