GT6 M

Askem what the ZDDP level is Wim M

Well it seems to give a bit moer light into the inside!!! Me sell, think it looks better than the cut of OE type (whistle)(whistle) M

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.ht.....or+pump&_sacat=0 try some Smith an Allen oil  its got a 14 PPM of zddp http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20w-.....-Litre-/301499425348 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ultr.....-20-Lt-/251803385700 M

On me new ingin, apart frae the cyl heed an mani gaskets there no gaskets used, just the high temp black silicon gasket stuff. nee leaks at all,  bar the darn rocker side of cyl heed to block, noo that really does tek some sealing, ive given up on just aboot every thing along there. M

One for Beans maybe,   Is this a factory effort, or aftermarket https://youtu.be/08cxhuGA-6c?t=77 M

the rear brakes hand-brake force changes when my fat body is in or out of the car. And this is why some of us were saying that yer tracking needs adjusted wid weight int car. M

Maybe, as if cable is a slack fit, then there alott of  HB play befoer the brake arm teks hodd. it really needs to be quite tight at a laden weight. POI, pull HB on slowly, and not hard, wid button still depressed when ye going along a uneven road at a speed,  and see what happens to HB lever weired feeling, M

Tim, ye maybe got a high oil pressure due to a restriction in them  wee pipe unions.  they are smaller thn the inlet / outlet feeds frae pump.!! I noticed  yonks ago, that oil temp goes up v v fast on a GT engine if driven spiritedly,   thats why I fitted a cooler yonks ago, BUTT, wid a termostat wid 1/2 inch bore inlet /outlets no the 5/16th or 3/8th that most pundits sell. Back to cooler, wheres it leaking, my olde one split just below the fitting in the core stack M

Was it jacked up ont chassis or  frae the hub. there a BIGGGG diff in brake adjustment. gotta doo it as  static laden. M

The microbes digest something else in the oil, not the hydrocarbons, if they're producing anything with sulphur in it. Hint: there are impurities in the oil I no what it is, its their Sheite, Sheite really stinks at times. Ohh and talking aboot Microbes,  ye wanna see what they doo to a boats deisel system,  orrid  mess it gets. M

The microbes digest something else in the oil, not the hydrocarbons, if they're producing anything with sulphur in it. Hint: there are impurities in the oil I no what it is, its their Sheite, Sheite really stinks at times. Ohh and talking aboot Microbes,  ye wanna see what they doo to a boats deisel system,  orrid  mess it gets. M

Yer no alone Martin https://youtu.be/TzGCFbQgKsc?t=13 M

well put it this way. Yer engines a bit worn, you got blowby into crankcase. so ye done 1000-2000 miles, year oil is black wid sheite frae combustion. not to mentionee the condensation that can get in with short trips. never heating up to boil the conden off. all this adds up to an acidic mix. leave that in year engine standing, it cant doo too much good M

well put it this way. Yer engines a bit worn, you got blowby into crankcase. so ye done 1000-2000 miles, year oil is black wid sheite frae combustion. not to mentionee the condensation that can get in with short trips. never heating up to boil the conden off. all this adds up to an acidic mix. leave that in year engine standing, it cant doo too much good M

what i tink is that cos you got a digi read oot noo, then you can see the swing faster, as it aint going thru a VS unit. the OE gauges react slowly, so they wont be swing aboot alott. On my own digi read oot, the thing swings frae 78 to 85. butt , the car gauge stays central Also, a termostat will let water thru moer if the water suddenly heats up. but cos the gauge is always lagging behint, then it shows up a lower temp   after the event. As when it opens, then the cold water in the rad will then go thru engine. and cool it, thus bringing yer digi sensor down the colder the outside air, the moer this will swing, mainly to the lower  temps. as we must all have seen driving our cars in winter,or cold air On me own, I can switch the heater off,  and run it along the road. then switch the heater back on, and in a few secs, the digi read oot on ECU has dropped 4 degs but soon goes back, but agen, temp gauge no sees this drop. And this wid just aboot a pint an a bit int heater core M

Here it is, the RR test. its v v strange as bears ne relationship to other engine. see bove post for specs. Butt, still no bad fora 25/65 cam me tinks olde chart M

At the time there were not many cars that did not have points and only the lumination system was non points triggered if you could afford it. Errr no quite reet Sir Ian, there was the Mobelec magnum, point free. And the SX100 an 1500 were capacitor, but the SX2000 was both, called  reactive. capacitor for initial, and the other bit after wards, { other bit, forgot its name } then there was the Lucas  Opus,seems to recall the local BL agent had a set up for it to show it working Colins got it, it was the Stealth programable ign.. If I were you Gary, I be going for a programable one. t,pot wid  its not factory, if factory were still aboot, they would no be on points.!! some thing to loook at https://uk.storeslider.com/mobelec-magnum-electronic-ignition-kit-251892639373e.html M

Ohhh, yer modding a 5,s ign, what will the TR lot think,(think)(whistle) give some thowt to a  1 2 3  ign unit,  as it can be programed with diff curves. there also a programapable  thingy that works of a lap top to fit any curve ye want, bit like the Megawotsit for adjusting. but still on a dizzy and I forget whats its called noo, after fitting one a yer or so ago to a Marras car, this is some thing similar http://www.aldonamethyst.co.uk/ https://www.google.co.uk/searc.....FcABVpbdJsq7aaDvk7gD M M

alott depends on the oil too. I recall some 10-60 and it took nearly 4 litres for 600 mile round trip As yet, 2000 odd miles on new engine, apart frae the first oil changes to get the 20W running in oil oot, done about 1600 on this oil, and its hardly moved at all. good ole 20-60 Penrite M

Ive read   that too, some say no oil used,others a pint for 500 miles on a TR6. seems as though either they wer,nt bedded correctly at first, or it were the wrong pistons that were fitted, read some thing that there were 20,000 odd pistons machined wrong for 2.5 engines, Im sure it was an article by GT some time ago. Alott depends too on how fast,or how much revs are used, as high revs, full load charges the crank case, and blows oil into chambers to be burnt. Not helped by too small a vent pipe fora 2.5 too. M

I thowt long an hard on this when i put mine back ont road in 86-7 ish Finally decided, and after plenty of pent coats, I put 2 layers of Glass fibre matting on bits where nee actual wheel flung dung, and 4 layers where it would get most stick, covered owa wid an underseal, and a top up noo an then when road detris has worn it off,   Its been on for ages, and stood the test as far as im aware. M

So  ye blew Steeves olde engine up Gaz. no excuse noo to get the 2.5 in And well done the 2 of you M

If i recall it, was there no a bigg Stag /deer  run oot infront / hit Cookie on this run once made him go off, damage the car !! To all left init, good luk, M

Martin, just read aboot yer rad, can you not cut the core ends, and solder them up where its holed gotta be a local place to buy a solder iron an solder. will get you going again,or is this too late for you now !! V V tuff luck Mike, could have been  v v much worse  though M

I got mine off Mark Feild, aka Jigsaw. its been great, sits slightly high still, but is v v firm compared to another I got frae another punter outfit. M