GT6 M
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Everything posted by GT6 M
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ello Wim, there is a wudruff key fits into that slot and either side of it, int grooves, there a split ring, some ive worked on ev circlips, but mainly they are steel rings. the pump cam fits int middle of em M
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Errr, just what is the mod done on Alecs car !!! or is it cant see,t forest for trees M
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Wim, doo it yer self plenty on here will help ye oot, this way, ye no whats actually going on inside a box plus Shaun Sheep, an Dirk Dastardly, are near to help too. M
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3 rd gear circlip come adrift me tinks Wim its the one that sits in a groove inside the 3 rd gear end M
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Looking, and I must say, sounds good, nice idle, a wee bit of tinkering wid the parameters first !!! Manis look really good too, well done there always lots of wee jobs that seem to crop up. if sump, then dont use a gasket, use high temp silicon, infact use it every where Make yer seat base lift up, then can leave comp under it, ala FAF film,!!! ohhh, get that red pent oft water pump, its either gotta be pented,or left, cant ev it splattered in wayward brush strokes, M
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for quite a while I ran ATF in the od box but it did seem to mek moer noise, and the OD took a few extra secs to come in when hot at least 4 secs, EP 90 instant when hot, aboot 2secs when cold this extra time was my biggest concern, as longer it teks to come in, moer clutch slip , when yer hoofs to floor, and actually had to change at 4K, as by time it come in, was well up to, and some times past red line, so went back to EP 90 all is fine noo Ohh 90/140 stuff int diff, M
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coming on v nicely Nick advice, but mebe no needed. butt frae experiance, better to check noo than fin oot later the starter feed wire looks v v close to them pipes, it will get v v hot if not even melt 2nd, the feed wire forit, on thee,s starters they generally face forads, towards the pipes, its actually nearer pipes than big feed { if yours is similar to most others } the wee hodder that the single wires in, can be turned aroond, so it faces backwards. cant se yours as its ont back side, but could be awkward to get at if it fries,!!! see pics, mebe some help if ye no already got this covered side yours is on, this fried and cracked the insulation [IMG]http: //i545.photobucket.com/albums/hh369/marcusaurailius/GT6%20%20Bits/STARTER%20MOTOR/BILD0002_zpsf1f1a081.jpg[/IMG] And seal the other end so water no gets in and does this and drill a wol in the v bottom of the housing { bottom bit } sen in 2 nd pic, Original was on the side,{ this be on bottom on an OE set up } and lets water in here too, so any water moisture can get oot, not turn to steam and short oot even moer, hence burned oot feed hole, M
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maybe an earth touching a live. need to inspect wid a meter to see what going on, batt lead off, and use a ohhm meter to mek a circuit that suspect or tek the switch off and open up if owt fun oot. M
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the shape was like that cos they found tht this shape introduced a bit of swirl t,mixture, an also, the idle air pipe is at front, so idle air will mix wid fuel spray after its injected, no befoer like the earlier,ns alledgedly they were cast in perspex,so to see air flow or so I read some where yonks ago butt a few questionee,s for ye 1, why have they got to be chopped up 2 wots up with the OE linkage, granted there a merits an demerits of both set ups, but if a bit of attentionee is med to the linkage, then its a decent set up. M
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Jimbo, ev a deek thru eer select the brake PDF then look at the Rover, {triumph is init } and see off set GT is 27 MM then go to the Peuogeot, Citroen, bits, and look for the discs that match the triumph off set. will ev,t re drill PCD, BUTT, if yer going to 5 inch or so ish wheels. then it maybe better to shave the hub doon, to match the disc, than shave the disc doon to match the hub its aboot a cats wisker to come off. Xsara for discs up to 288 407 Coupe for 300+ discs, and I think therea Bigg citroen type with same off set. Butt all are either 4 or 5 stud, so a re drill. in my mind, much better than the Ford offerings, as they are just same size as OE GT brakes, but vented. Note, the steering arm can be packed oot a bit, so if ye see another disc, wid diff off set, , but the 407 coupe is what I got on. http://www.national-auto.co.uk/brake_products/brake_catalogue.aspx M
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I had good result wid a Piper HR 270 as it wer then, noo BP i think, a wee bit diff butt basicly same cam, duration aboot same as a 25/65 but moer lift,45 thou moer think its 24 64 64 24, 280 cam lift exhaust is same as inlet closing, so should be as good as the OE camIE nee bigg drop around 25-35 thou, as seems to happpen wid most cams that ev advanced ex valve opening like the Kent offereings http://www.pipercams.co.uk/pipercams/www/product.php?pid=TRBP270 M
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thats gonna give a nice squirt right at the back oft valve. questionee for ye Nick will this be up an running befoer in drawing yer pensionee,!!! Ev a mass attack, get it going M
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Also, the model was improovd as time went on eer another intresting article http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/gearboxes.htm M
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any chance that 14/15 inch wheels can be fitted low profile+ same,ish rolling radius MGF types,plenty aboot, {over in NZ ?? } then the discs can be upped frae 247mm OE{9.7 in } to owt frae 280-310 with just a either a skim to hubs, or to inner hole ont disc, aboot 25thou just need to re drill PCD to suit then citroen /peugeot vented discs can be fitted, as they are the correct off set like the OE disc, So nee fartn aboot wid spacers, then ye can use yer own calipers,wid a widening strip fitted {v easy } and some good pads. this way, ye still have a good foot pedal, but a bigger disc area an vented. bigger discs 310mm, best mod i ever did, much much better pedal feel/ controll and v v little effort to stop M
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gear ratios dont seem v good to me but diff version have diff sets would be good to have a 5th about .70 or less !! R380 box ratio's fitted to LDVs 3.98:1 2.50:1 1.50:1 1.00:1 0.78:1 intresting read http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/gearboxes2.html M
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Im fairly sure, that even late GTs had it next to coil ont block. if it did,nt, then some bod,e es been modding M
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Ballast ona GT3 should be next to coil ont block. see pics,its an oblong thingy wid 2 connectors,and wite looking https://www.google.co.uk/searc.....;biw=984&bih=595 M
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Jimbo, ift end bearing when oot aint got excess play, then drill a wol init, its just a plastic cover. then squrt grease in thru a grease gun or what ever, then re seal wol, simples. there 3 types of seal, single lip dubble lip, cant recall woe I got thee,s frae, they were ona stand at stonehenge show and the leather leather, dubble lip great if thera groove worn int quill bit as they cover a bigger area. leather, soak it in warm oil fora few days, let it soften / swell up quite a few ive been tek,n t,bits are full of oil int quill bit, im actually think,n if a hole drilled int bottom will let the oil oot, then it wont wash bearing grease away,!! M
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here it is, hidden in the deppths of me comp M
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maybe no many aboot Col, but it isnt v hard t,doo on yer own heed. Alos, Nik has then got a bigg choice in a simple free flowing tidy looking manifold. some thing t,ponder on Nick M
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If ye, had done it my way, way I showed ye, then there be nee probs wid injectors fouling bonnet. Tried, tested, cheep, simples, effective, neat OE type looking too. !!! Butt, there are side fed injectors aboot, will save on height. butt, need to have diff fueling rails med up. https://www.google.co.uk/searc.....rc=htJo_NTZrLaXQM%3A Butt, could also put the injectors on the actual heed, like the Triumph experimental heed ive seen, this way, fuel is injected nearly at the vavlve heed. they fit into a hole just above where the inlets meet the heed. Slimboy has a photo of em, and they on here { CT } some where, but as Ive niva iva been able to find any thing on that search facility, then I cant show ye As to linkage, then wid the position of GTs manis, then it may well be a choice of going fora single throttle valve,like most moderns ev got this can, and has been grafted onto end oft intek log. Quite a few pics on CT site with this set up could save alott moer agro with yer linkage probs. As ye finding oot Nik, a wee bit off here,there, and other non standard bits, all adds up to some thing thats gotta be med just for this set up. which all adds to time / expense . M
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Doesn`t say what the `black` is....looking shiny looks like powder coating.....that may crack?, Says Mike Ive had thee,s on for 5 or moer odd years noo, no sign of cracking, nee rust. not even a rust discolouration eitha, So only going by my observations. Not only that, but every one a spline drive, so unless ye got the socket, then they cant be pinched either. Chriss got em in red, for his T6 M
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John, ye,ll need new nuts too, so suggest that thee,s are considered vv light, strong, and rust proof,unlike alot of others http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TITA.....d:g:e7EAAOSw9mFWLftn 5 diff colours too. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.ht.....p;_skc=600&rt=nc M
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As Paul says, a wata cooled type I ran one for yonks, an was v v good, oil temp rarely moved, even when high revs, high load, slow speed, it stopped nearly constant. A air cooled in thee,s circumstances,will let oil get alot lot hotter, as the air flow is just no there. the 25 row i got noo, get oil hotter under low speed,high load work, but ok when ont move, an normal driving as oil temp gauge shows it was a 19 row cooler, bunged into a steel box with inlet /outlets for wata, and oil im sure a tinkerous bloke like ye are can fiddleate some thing up,!! and it sat here, same as where the new,n is noo, but may no be able,t on a Saloon it got changed because of this which did this to the water side M
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2 Niks, I think Dr Ikeoff used the set up he did, cos it did,nt need any mods as such mek,n new links, just the braket to weld on. AND, from some ive seen, they not in my mind on right, need to be slightly angled to match springs inclination, other wise, it puts stress on the inner bushings back end at top, front at bottom, its nee option, as its a straight link with a inclinded VL. Nick J, I hope ye have figured oot, that a roto spring on a roto set up, WILL give diff camber readings if a Swinger spring is used ona roto set up the roto yan will curve in moer when unloaded, so will pull the top VL inwards, giving moer neg on droop the swinger will give moer positive camb on droop. { Did Chriss put this into his comp simulator ! } ye got both, then put em side by side ont floor, and see the diff, If i recaal its aboot 2.5 inches shorter when just sitting then stand on the Roto, and it,ll ..stretch to same,ish as the swinger. I think, well sure really, that this is why I could nae get decent handling with me swinger spring ona roto back end, too much camber change for fatt tyres. its moer camber change with a swinger ona roto than a roto alone. And, mostly on droop angles this diff in length will mek a bigg diff to camber angles on droop,but no so much in bump, as the 2 end up aboot the same Thee,s Lobros,or others, doo they just slide in the diff end alone, If they slide in VL end, then ye got dubble movement.!!! or am i thinkin all wrong with thee,s things M