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GT6 M

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Everything posted by GT6 M

  1. No gasket, just silicon sealant I use the high temp stuff i get frae the fire place spot int toon butt, most of the motor factors will sell it, its in smaller tubes,  butt still plenty for sealing it up just mek sure its all clean, no oil, clean wid thinners or petrol and if yer covers no fitting correctly, cos its wrong cover,  then ye need to drill a 1/4 hole in diff tap it, and use a 1/4 bolt it,ll fit just oot wards of the hole already there M
  2. Dont use a gasket, use  silicon sealant it,ll never leak M
  3. I see a snag on this, Unless yer onto it,!!!! Yer gonna need 2 v v v bigg injectors t,flow fuel for 6 cyls and if yer only using a small injector, then its duty cycle will be weel owa its rated design, mostdont like being over 80% for any lenght of time. the coils owa heat, an frie Can up the fuel pressure a bit,that,ll give moer fuel at same duty sett,n butt still wont really be good enough M
  4. On yan of the  aftermarket manual books there is a cut away engine on start of books its in the inter europe man for the GT so mebe on the others for the smaller engines too. failing that, Wots needed is t, think oot side the box an get some off set bolts M
  5. Tap it in to where its gonna be OK on the flanges  bearing bit generally on v v olde flanges, the smooth bit, wher oil seal sits, is owt but smoothe, its all pock marked wid holes thru rust. get the flange as claen as poss, and see where seal is gonna sit if its gonna sit where ther aint ne damaged bit, then if it means sett,n the seal to a diff depth, then it,ll ev t,be so. the side shafts onn diff are the same,so I tend to bung 2 seals in here, just for good measure. Ye can doo this on yours wid the thinner seals A double lip seal is also available M
  6. Yip, lower comp = no as much bang = less power = gotta open throttles moer = moer fuel used M
  7. Wots the cc of the calipers!! bigger than OE, then ye got problemo,s so may well need a bigger MC bigger MC will lead to a need for Biggg leg mucles moderns ev big MC,s cos they got big servo,s also, calipers, most likely wont match up t,caliper mounts been there ages ago M
  8. Dave, if ye get the small filters that wer fitted to the Reliants, then the filter will sit underneath, an verticle And, if change the thread in adapter, then there even moer smaller depth filters aboot that will fit. Butt, thee,s things still dont stop the oil delay problemo ne matter wot type of filter /adapter is used. Only a Markusump will doo this M
  9. thes been a long thread running, and anuther just opened up ont Grerrylanshire TR forum they experiancing it,  some wid PI, some wid carbs, mostly due to altitude butt, they talking fitting fuel coolers, as quite a few moderns ev em as standard. So, if a modern is suffering, then fit a cooler. M
  10. nearly said aboot that bolt, and when this is done, the need for a special ring spanna is a must have tool it needs heated up, and bent to aboot 30 degs this so ring end fits bolt heed, and shaft passes the bulk heed area and can be moved aboot easily and a MUST do, is to turn the signal wires holder  180 degs dont, then yer holder, the wires will fry / melt esp if giv,n it some stik how doo i no this !! M
  11. Chek yer earths are good, lots of pent aint good for earthing things. as weel as a  the adaptor, ye may need some of the OE shims fitted between starter an backplate Get some engineers blue, blue the starters teef up, an spin it this,l give a good indication of where its mek,n contact. see that wee wol on side of starter, fill it in, and drill another in the very bottom, if ye dont, it,ll fill wid water, ruin all the contacts, also, seal on the top, water gets in there too, buggers the motor brushes up. see thread i did on it, tech sectionee. M
  12. Wots needed is a pre fill tank. get till an mek yer self one M
  13. Fits wid room to spare Contrary to pop belief, I tink the side plug will pick alott up as when I started t,bung em on me own Diffs,   then side plug always had / has moer stuff onit than the drain look thru eer, there top shots https://www.google.co.uk/searc.....rc=oD2NF-hFC8nPpM%3A M
  14. Haa haa, I used to forget too, butt remeber this sequence, its very apt, Nob end in first, then  point at it, cant ga rang if ye stik yer nob init, 😀 M
  15. this something I wastrying to tell a Capri X Pacowner on Sun he said his car starts hunting when in town  / traffic. its not cutting oot as such, butt, runs quite bad he said. reason, the  air temps going up, ye aint got nee facility to alter the ign, nor the fuel delivery amounts as the air gets hotter, it gets thinner, butt, the fuel sucked in, still remains the same so yer engine gets moer fuel than needed., so runs rich then, after fuel has got hot too, ye will most likely be suffering frae vapourisation probs too, so then, engine goes frae being too rich, to getting nee fuel at all, hence the eventual conkin oot. Any one wid a ECU fited, wid a ex sensor reading will tell ye, { if they actually have took notice of this,  tink Nick will be onto this.} that the ECU will decrease fuel amount as temp gets higher, and also it retards ign too. mine does, and can tek 15-20 exta fuel oot at idle butt, wen engine is cold,or, moer specific, no much heat coming oft ex to heat the inlet manis, then ECU actually  Adds fuel, upto 10-14% which slowly goes doon as temp raise, till its detracting fuel. this can be reduced by switching engine fan on, and it drops to 12-15 % as moer hot air is being shifted thru me vents. Me self, after all the mods ye done / tied, this seems tobe logikal culprit as modern fuel boils alott sooner than olde fuel frae pre Ethanol times. Can try running it on 100LL avgas, as this is designed to not gas off as much, nor change as much in its structure. can also try running yer fuel thru a external cooler, befoer it gets to carbs and also  try running wid yer fan on { if electric } and having the bonnet propped open by say, a couple of bogg rolls see if this extra opening, letting hot air oot will help { the vents in me bonnet worked  to get rid of fuel vapourising when I ran PI., along wid other mods } M
  16. I tend to agree wid Rodger, I had one of them horsey shoe types,{still got it } got it fora present, ,thowt, i,ll giv it a go, so off int shed I goes ready to play wid me new tool, result, the shank brok off the former, after aboot 3 turns t,git pressure  up                                         and  it the one thats needed normal lines. totall sheite, this type is much much better,  Hand held ont car, or fix annel in a vice, even better had this for 30 odd years, had some stik, still as good as day I got it, https://www.google.co.uk/searc.....rc=hduzEG2CWEQCDM%3A M
  17. Ahaa, i see, butt, Dave did mentionee a Mountney, hence my post. maybe still of some info to others woe want to change to a thicker wheel and still retain the OE boss. M
  18. Wot wot wot Dave, Here is a Mountney rim, wid GT6 spokes. mountney is 13 inch, GT was bigger. So, just cut the end oft spokes,and re fit,wid new holes for rivets the mountney, has the tabs for the spokes on inside, not  inside the rim, butt,inside the wheel,,sticking oot, so its easy to fit a set of spokes to it, wid oot getting the wheels cova off., follow,!! I actually used counter sunk bolts an nuts. and thee,s are hidden b,int the covers the mountney has on the spoke ends. simples Ole Bean, M
  19. Odd on a min, ye got a mountney wheel,ok ye still got the original triumph boss, yes. then tek the leather covers off the mountney spokes at rim end drill oot the rivets, get yer own wheel spokes, and fit em to the mountney one, simples, I did it a while ago M
  20. 80 /90 oil same thickness wen cold as 90 /140 140 is the hot number, VI index is way way above the normal stuff. Penrites oil maybe GL5, butt, its friendly stuff. not all GL5s are bad tried just aboot every thing, inc Auto trans, OK, butt, od took too long to come in, http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products-categs.php?id_categ=4 got this for diff, butt thowt i,ll try it int box, as Penrite tech said it be OK IF its too thick for syncro, use the 80/110 they said its been fine M
  21. well mine dont, but then its no Dinolite, but that Aussie stuff, fully synthetic, 80/140  diff an G/b+OD  no seems to have done owt to box,or OD engagement in or oot. Same too for the engine oil, full synth, 2,2000 PPM ZDDP M
  22. Rich, div,nae  weld it fully on, or even tack it on, untill ye got the suspension in spot, and the radius arms, the thing in my mind, findings, does no need to be verticle, BUTT, inclined. Diffs inclined forads, so spring is inclined forads,  so too will the VL, so attach the lower link, wot will that be sitting at, Verticle,or inclined,!!! M
  23. Because of the cant, the sump is different on a 2000 saloon. It is also canted. Vitesse/GT6 sumps are horizontal. Also is the dip stik length, and also the actual dipstik holder, as for piks, try PB, its free, I use it, so its easy, !!! http://s5.photobucket.com/ M
  24. An update of NON Mann filters, and me  home brew Markusump. wid this conntaption, I can pre oil me engin, So, as me last mann filter was used, I bunged a Z27 filter onit, single valve type,  switched  Markusump on, and it took  all me oil int thing to fill it. ran engine, and re pressured the Sump, and switch off at 80 Lbs. Started it up this afternoon, after standing frae Sunday, Sump emptied, and oil light still on, Butt, on start up,  oil light oot on actuall crank, befoer engine fired, so, nearly primed to pressure, butt nee oil left int sump. aszero PSI ont gauge. wid the Mann filter, oil light was off, engine primed in aboot 5 secs,   and still got 40-50 PSI int sump, If pressure was at max wen switched  off. the thing hods  just owa a Litre of oil, and had used it all up filling filter, and the galleries. remember, filter was originaly filled wid engine running. So, going to get a few moer Mann filters noo. Butt, i like the W 830 /3 type, moer wols to keep oil flow,!!! Just goes to show  hoo much oil is needed to fill a oil filter an gelleries if engine left fora few days, 3   they cheepish on here, http://www.eurocarparts.com/ec.....dc31b1336&000231 M
  25. Ahaaa, yer on Webbers or Dell,ortos, I tek it that the rubber O ring is still free,ish between carb an mani.!!! if its tight, nee flex,  it,ll give the symtoms ye experiancing. M
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