GT6 M
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Everything posted by GT6 M
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All depends on what yer up too and also what yer driving preff is. And, also the tyre pressure of original, should only be tek,n as a guide wid the moer modern tyres. ie, a GT is 22-26 fronts, im noo running wid the tyres i got on noo 38 fronts for normal road use., as thees pressures show the best wear pattern, and stops outer edge feathering away, due to tyre roll owa. So, ye just gotta experiment, get yer depth gauge out regular, see which bits wearing, an adjust pres to compensate M
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On my car I also have aux fans in the valances bringing colder air in, 75mm IP56 rated. RR[/quote] Would it be no better to them sucking the air oot!! As for the rubber bulk head strip, I did this yonks ago, and with fan on, the fan shifts the air thru this bigger gap, moer hot air gets out, then moer cold air can get in, simples. Rooster, try this for yer Avatar, http://www.therevcounter.co.uk/filedata/customavatars/avatar603_2.gif M
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Cant see hoo they could be awkward aboot a drain plug. I mean, which bloke re does a diff, an does nae bung a drain plug init they are made wida drain plug flat area as OE If going taper, then ne need to get hole verticle, so as bolt heed sits flat but a taper, its no criticle, as taper will seal, no the head,if its got one that is. As for drills, drill it 14.3 mm or 19/32nds fora 3/8th BSP, same as side fill plug 7/16 th , 29/64 ths , 9.5 mm 1/2, 33/64 ths, 11.5mm dont forget, bung amagnet in each. drain the oil after 150-200 miles an re fill M
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Nope, tooo bigg, did a measure up, its a no no M
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Drill the rocker box, add nut to back side oft pipe, fit spalsh gard, and route it to underneath plenum, simples or, as I did, to an olde overflow bottle, , then into plenum moer work, but still simples an pipe frae box on its way doon t,bottle baffle int box M
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Ian, bung a pipe an a filter on the redundant petrol pump wol which will noo eva cover over it 3/4 inch pipe is best, squashed up int vice to match hole int block weld,or solder toa plate, an bobs yer uncle failing that, just drill thru, and attach a nut an oil deflctor ont insides most needed i,ll add is the oil deflctor M
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thees, type. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.ht.....7+seats&_sacat=0 M
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On closer inspectionee, Malcs right aboot the ends, originally thought they worn away. Butt, not all caged rollers are diff shaped ont ends. the lay needles are straigh,slight rounded ont ends, And longer than the 4th gear,ns Butt, find it hard to figure oot just hoo they can come oot. Noise in 1,2,3 gears indicates either bearings at back, isit a rumbley noise,wid slight felt vibration, if so,its bearings inner race worn noise is gear tteth wearing away,or counter shaft worn nee noise in 4th is cos its direct reet thru, so nee power fed to layshaft, although its still turning casuse of bearing noises,worn inner race This happened ona box, needles come oot 4th gear end, and stuk int syncro hub, whats the chance of this !! M
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why? as Ferny simples, cos they too high, alott higher than the separate head rest type. They actually touch the roof in me GT, and that aint got nee headlining hanging doon. So ina Spitty, hood would no go up. Shoulder bits Ok Mikey M
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eva look at MX5 seats, BUTT no the integral high backs as fitted to MK2.5s also eva look at the seats frae a RX7, they fit. Ive looked at the type otta a late Celica, they measure up ok, butt, its the side adjusters that may need tweek,n M
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they could be input bearings,BUTT summat really bad must,v gone on in thea to get em actually oot of the area in questionee. My looot is on the layshaft needles, reasoning, shaft was stuffed in, but some oft needles had cum adrift, and puseh into layshaft. and wid it rotating,they have ..maybe come oot of the bigg iol hole int shaft, either when its ont go, or wen its stopped, wid wol at bottom. Ive found this ona few boxe,s and when took t,bits, there a few needles missing int laygear. M
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they could be input bearings,BUTT summat really bad must,v gone on in thea to get em actually oot of the area in questionee. My looot is on the layshaft needles, reasoning, shaft was stuffed in, but some oft needles had cum adrift, and puseh into layshaft. and wid it rotating,they have ..maybe come oot of the bigg iol hole int shaft, either when its ont go, or wen its stopped, wid wol at bottom. If found this ona few boxe,s and when took t,bits, there a few needles missing int laygear. M
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for clarity of things, are ye say,n that cos ye got too much clamp force ont dizzy pedastal, its stopping the cam frae turning owa, thus is putting strain on starter !!! just cant seem t,get me heed around this at all. As for findin oot the gap, then forget al the shims, spacers ect, the best way is to fit the pedastal, clamp doon, and shuv yer feelers into gap at bottom ye got nee gap, then its too tight, add gaskets till thera gap. simples M
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If the diff back case is no off, then it has tobe done wid the bottom facing bottom. can drill thru a fair bit, then drill frae underneath this,l stop swarf falling inside. also, bung a magnet ont drill bit too. as for size, 7/16 or 1/2, bigger is better as oil comes oot easier. And, bung a magnet into the drain plug too, also, bung one int fill plug too, for some strange reason, ther moer sheite collected on the fill, than the drain. need high temp magnets, and loctite em in spot in the hole drilled int bolt. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1820.....e=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT An change the oil after 2-300 miles, to get rid of the brass bits thats worn in/come adrift. And change at least twice ayear, or moer if used fast ye dont want it to end up wid pits like the other !! M
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they O snap right at the end, bit where its just left the taper. generally rust pits eatin into thread which aint rolled, but cut, an can be quite wuff wuff if looked at under a magnyfying glass be better to ..polish first thread away,and then the loaded area is deeper int carrier. Just oot of curiosity,they seem to goawol after 30-45 yers, Ive seen modern ball joints go awolafter 8 years on cars Vauxhalls an fords wer a common sight in me marras garage ev,n lost the bottom ball joint So really, a new,n is going to last a long long time,esp if its well lubed often M
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Yes, and at least 2 times a year ,same too for diff. oil is cheeper than boxs an diffs M
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Weel don Wim, ye love tinkerating really. hope ye put copper washers on the bottom G/Box to bell housing, and some loctite,!!! as that bolts, direct to inside of box, re Taps n dies best get yer self a mechanics set of flea bay they wont be much, as carbon steel but ideal for what ye want, ie cleaning threads an the like http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.ht.....%2F+unf&_sacat=0 M
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Aha, noo I look closer, I see, butt, was tek,n off scent by thinkin it was either wire trunking going t,light, ora washer pipe . Jules,Ted, Niva reda post as easy, its catch,n M
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It may well be some bod,e has run a UNF tap, thru a BSF nut, as thee,s nuts are just aboot what ye describe. Butt, they look normal in the pics. other optionee is as Andy says, ora Metrinch spanner. they seem to fit evry thing thats odd too,, inc rounded nuts OR, tek off an fit new nuts, Just been int shed and eda measure wid spanners, 1/2 an 13 mm on the BSF nuts on me lath A 1/2 will ..just squeeze on, a 13 mm fits ok butt,I got some odd BSF nuts ina oddments tin, and some of them nuts, and bolt heeds are bigger, than them ont lathe. Edit, been int shed alott longer than thowt, Stus posted 20 mins +ago,!!! M
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No, no deteriating, just to see if the contact pattern is OK, wrang pattern can and dose give whines bearings is rumby noise,or just a noise, totally diff to gear noise pattern too low, decrease pin depth pattern to high, increase pin depth to far oota side mesh, move shims frae one side to other. Too slack when tek,n carrier oot, needs tobe tight, and prised oot, and needs to be wacked home when fittig, if no tite, then carrier moves under load, same too for Pin, needs enough pree load to stop it moving too. then can get away with just a shim on one side, Depending on which side needs lash altered. Note, altering pin depth, will alter side depth its a balancing act, that teks quite a bit of time. as if its pin, then its bearings carrier nokked oot, if its a solid spacer, ok, just need shims, other type, 😲 if ye nee other bits to use, then its also gonna be awkward !!! thats why, im saying check it first pics needed M M
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got a vernier, then measure it, and M
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i,ll try an elp ye here. but, some basic stuff is needed. engineers blue, a good big vice,or some thing t,hold the diff steady on yer spare diff, tek back plate off, bung in vice { some how 🤔 } coat both sides oft teeth wid blue. add some load, and turn diff, tek some pics, and bung up to show us O what the pattern is both drive an coast M
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Yes, been a wee while noo, good to see him on here. moer usefull advice frae a hands on Tinkerator M
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Yes, been a wee while noo, good to see him on here. moer usefull advice frae a hands on Tinkerator M
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Yip thats it Wim, and most likely been opened up too far when putting in, or tekn oot. BUTTT, bear in mind, some of the newer stuff is like cheese metal,!!! just saying, 😲 M