Casper
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Everything posted by Casper
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1200 stamping is on the flat machined face where the rocker cover gasket sits (may be partly covered by the rocker cover). I seem to recall somewhere at the rear, but can't remember which side. 1200 heads include: 510461 8:1 514431 8:1 514441 8.5:1 513963 8.5:1 (also 510462 and 514432 6.8:1) The CR applies of course if fitted to a 1200 engine. Quick (rough) sums suggest that a 1200 8:1 head on a 948 would give just under 7:1 and a 8.5:1 head just over 7.25. C
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Not so much adjustment, more flexibility, perhaps. C.
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Herald 1200 fitted with Spitfire 1500 distributor
Casper replied to oldmetalhead82's topic in Electrical
Not a 'modification' as such. Probably someone using what was available. However, JK used to recommend the RKC5044/41449 (1500) dizzie as suitable for all Heralds. As to ballast resister and coil, perhaps someone thought it would give easier starting (as designed). C. -
Someone will be along soon about the carbs, but it would be helpful to know the engine number. C.
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Is the bleed nipple on top of the slave, or on the bottom? BTDT C.
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Small crank engine 1mm on the periphery of the pulley = 1 degree (as close as matters). Measure and mark with tippex or similar. C.
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I'm sure I have swapped barrels in the past. Is there a small pin holding them in? Not a lot of practical help but may keep your enthusiasm up until you get a more useful reply. C.
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Might need to think again about the diff. If you mean it has the smaller inner half shafts, it wouldn't even like a standard 1300 for very long. Serial number? C.
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Richard is probably 100%, but Herald and Vitesse used slightly different versions of the Lucas standard, or rather lthe lack of fuses on the Herald resulted in different wiring colours. Which car? See: http://www.peterrenn.co.uk/archive4.html http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/jensenmondayclub/Technical-Electrical/Lucas%20Colour%20Codes/lucascolourcodes.htm and http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/colourcodes.htm C.
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Yes, but you probably need to be able to work lying on your back, legs out of the passenger door, and head somewhere underneath too. Clamp the bolts, slacken the locking nut and allen key, adjust the column and do up the allen key as tight as you can by hand with a normal length allen key (I'm pretty sure that's about how tight you want it), then lock it. Mine often works down with use. C.
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It's the lower one, not shown in the first diag. 122669 and the other bits. What this does is to clamp the top part of the column (attached to your new steering wheel) to the lower part of the column which goes to the steering rack (not shown). When you loosen it, or the allen key, the top column and wheel can be adjusted up or down to give correct clearance from the outer column, which isn't steel, it's painted aluminium alloy. It should be clamped close to the bottom of the outer column, and there should be a clear plastic washer and an ally alloy (okay, piman?) end cap on the outer column. Read your workshop manual regarding tightening - it forms a crude (nay, simple) collapsible column in the event of an accident. Rereading your OP you probably put the clamp in the right pplace - it's just the upper column is not properly adjusted. Hope that makes sense C.
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Yes. The clamp below the outer column needs adjusting. C.
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Sorry, not a good one: 204490 12-52-12-52 0.281" lift Large journal Pennant Gold Star, Herald 948 saloon, Early 1200 (GA1E to GA152953E), Export 1200 GB1E to GB2700E C.
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Sorry, not a good one: 204490 12-52-12-52 0.281" lift Large journal Pennant Gold Star, Herald 948 saloon, Early 1200 (GA1E to GA152953E), Export 1200 GB1E to GB2700E C.
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This may be useful: Initial Settings Adjust the throttle/choke inter-connecting rod by inserting a length of 0.027†(0.7mm) wire, or a No. 71 drill between the throttle butterfly and the bore of the carb. body. With the choke fully closed, tighten the rod adjusting screw. Set the idle screw to just touch the throttle lever, then turn it in 1.5 turns Screw the mixture screw in ‘till it just stops, then back it out 2 turns. This is a good starting point. Set idle to 500 rpm (quite slow). Unscrew mixture screw ‘till it hunts, then screw in to give a best idle. Slow the idle down again if this speeds thing up, and re adjust the mixture again. C.
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41168 was fitted to Vitesse 2L and as 'alternative' on GT6 69-74 Vitesse 2L Mk had 41273 C.
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DG/DH Toledo 1300 DM/DS Toledo 1500 G 948 single carb GA 1200 GD 12/50 and late 1200 GE 13/60 GK 13/60 (large crank) FC Spitfire 4(up to 50,000), Spitfire Mk 2 (after 50,001) FD Spitfire Mk 3 FH Spitfire Mk 4 (large crank) FM Spitfire 1500 RD 1300 RF 1300TC Y 948 Twin carbs YC Toledo 1500 1500RWD
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The early engines were 8:1 The major change point was at GA178101E (Nov 1964) on, (the 'hot cam' engine) when it went to 8.5:1 But, as John says, after 50 years, who knows ? C.
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2880 wrote:<snip> you will get next to no gain except poor fuel economy. <snip>. In the past 11 years my 1200 has done 41,000 miles at an average consumption of 36 mpg. Twin SU, road cam and compression lifted. Driven with spirit. Currently doing about 37 - 39 each fill. I don't call that poor. ... but I agree, they are not a simple 'bolt on' go-faster goodie. Con
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Where is it? C.
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Type 12 have bellows rubber dustshields, Type 14 have low rubber dustshields held on by spring.
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Quote:Really early cars had curved ones? Herald 1200 engines up to GA178101HE - i.e pre 'hot cam'. This was about Nov '64 AFAIK they were fitted as an engine set (collar and cuffs) but of course heads get changed over time. Don't know about the Vitesse 1600 C.
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The curved ones are 'Welch' or 'Hubbard expansion' plugs. See http://www.britishcarweek.org/welch_plug.html and http://www.google.com/patents/US1058210?dq=1058210 They need 'upsetting' (i.e. deforming by indenting the centre) so as to fit properly. See http://www.hubbardspring.com/install_reco.php?cid=45 I generally use pretty much any flat drift. C.
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First suggestion is to try harder! First undo the two bolts holding it in position (I hope you've tried that). Then give it a firm pull forwards. The seat base is hinged and should move forward at the same time as the squab moves forwards. I guess it might just be stiff. Congratulations on your acquisition ! From the inside, the bottoms of your C posts look sound. That's a bonus. C.
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Quote:I think the early type (Wipers close together) give 160 Degrees of sweep and the later type 120 Degrees, not sure how this relates to the teeth on the drive gear wheel though Same number of teeth on the drive gear wheels, but the drive pin is further in/out from the centre of the wheel. That's why they are interchangeable and indeed theoretically modifiable. (Only learned that recently myself) But, as described above, there were two different wheelboxes and these can cause problems. C.