Casper
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Everything posted by Casper
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Quote:grease!! C.
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. . . but the ipad is upside down btdt
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Seat Fitting Problems can often be found with seats that have been incorrectly refitted after being removed. There are some minor variations in detail over the models and period of production but I believe the following should apply to all variations. Components and terminology: Seat runners - fitted to the floor, have holes for the adjuster to register in. Subframe - runs on runners, includes adjuster lever on one side only. Has two brackets on the front, each with two holes arranged one ABOVE the other. On one side the bracket is square and straight, and on the other side the holes are set forward, so the bracket is shaped like a B. Seat frame - on which seat is built. Brackets at the front have two holes arranged one BEHIND the other. Fitting: Seat runners should be fitted with holes to the rear, fixed with 5/16" UNF bolts, and with 1/2" spacers (thick washers) under each bolt. Captive nut on turret at the rear is FQ3406 (should be available from the usual suspects). The sub-frames are handed: you should have a pair. They should be fitted so that the adjuster lever and catch is nearest the transmission tunnel. This adjuster should mate with the holes in the seat runner (but won't if the seat runner has been fitted back to front). This ensures that the holes on the bracket on the door side are a smidgen further forward than the transmission tunnel side, i.e. the B shaped bracket is nearest the door. Choose between the high and the low hole on the seat sub-frame. This adjusts rake and/or height (with blocks). Use the foremost hole on the seat frame bracket for the door side (ie the side where the sub-frame holes are further forward) and the rearmost hole on the seat frame bracket on the tunnel side. This means that the seat sits square on the sub-frame. The fact that the pivot point is slightly angled, means that when the seat is tipped forward, the top moves inwards and does not hit the A post/windscreen surround.
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I have heard that electric cooling fans can act a a dynamo and produce enough current to maintain the engine running. haven't really thought it through carefully, though C.
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Demon Tweeks at a price ! http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Product.do?method=view&n=1717&p=172670&c=215&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Base&utm_campaign=Brake%20Master%20Cylinders%20&%20Reservoirs&gclid=CICT5uOwisUCFcrpwgodcgQApQ C.
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Nick_Jones wrote:I think they are Triumph centres welded into something else Nick Agreed. Look like early (wide slot) centres. C.
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1. Are your seats on the lowest fitting? You might find a search on this and other forums may help you out. 2. Separate, but related, is your steering column adjusted to suit you? C.
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1/2" should make it go negative by just under 2 degrees C.
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0.625" kit should be SP1963, or variant C.
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08 Grey 18 Gumetal 28 Dark Grey 38 Phantom 48 Dolphin 68 Slate C.
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I don't want to raise the temperature, and I'm sorry I had missed what you had written. You are quoting chapter and verse, but the manual says nothing about including factory options. Nor does any other document I can find. I'm sorry your tester is a stickler. I suppose what he says goes. C.
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http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_360.htm Manual 3.6 C 1 a: A servo: a. missing when fitted as standard (My emphasis) Beware 'experts'. C.
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Quote: do not cover your chrome with wd40 in the winter I wouldn't Quote: it is hydroscophic and absorbs and retains water so will actually promote rust It isn't/doesn't Quote: use engine oil Again, I wouldn't C.
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http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=7983 Item 66 I need to get (buy/make) a couple myself. C.
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The boss I had already had a hole for the pencil. You could drill one yourself, but might have to be accurate as to where you place it. The horn push was held together by three plastic prongs. Once detatched, I removed the wire by removing the rivet from the base of the horn push. and added a strip of brass using the same rivet hole and a small nut and bolt (could use pop rivet). Brass strip contacts top of horn pencil in the usual way. I hope that helps. Frankly, I think it's a bit off to sell an item as fitting a herald/Spit when it needs a lot of modification. C.
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Yes, if you can't work it out yourself I talk you through it, but in short you need to take the horn push apart, disconnect the wire they give you and fit a conductor to act as a contact for the horn pencil. Not rocket science C.
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BTW, if you do get a Mountney, you will have to do something creative to get the horn working. Not difficult. Putting a separate horn push on the dash is a slovenly cop-out. C.
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I currently have a Les Leston (also 14" and s/d). I think I have had Mountney in the past, Nothing really wrong with it but it didn't have the class (or the price) of a Moto-Lita. Had various steering wheels, various cars, Currently, the top of the column is 7" from the clamp. Rim is 6" away from the top of the (uncompressed) seat top. My 6' 4" son has been happy driving a variety of small chassis cars. C.
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14" semi-dished for me (6ft 1"). C.
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Feb/Mar 1963. If the body plate is un-screwable, then it has already been off. Surely they are welded on. BMIH should have colour details, but 32 is likely. http://www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/store/heritage-certificates-and-archive-services/heritage-certificates.html C.
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The Mk 1 chassis cars had a different rack. Of course, the mounting was different and my notes suggest the ratio was also slightly different. I believe the Vitesse 6 had the 3.7:1 rack as standard. Did it have the larger steering wheel ? C.
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My notes are that the ratios are: Herald up to 1962 - 3.6:1 Herald after 1962/Spitfire - 3.7:1 Vitesse/GT6 - 4.25:1 Note that the Herald steering wheel was 16" dia, the Spitfire/Vitesse/GT6 were 15". This makes a difference to the effort required ! C.
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AUD 624 HS2 Spitfire Mk IV ECE 1973 FZX1258 HS4 Dolomite 1500 1976-77 The cast numbers are part numbers. The tab numbers are the spec of the entire carb. Tabs (like Comm. numbers) do not always relate to the carb they are attached to. Measure the bores . . . and check needles, springs etc. C.
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http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1339360948/
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Sorry, Dan. I can't help on that one. C.