Casper
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Everything posted by Casper
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Not a fan of either the look or the noise. Investigate Canley Semi Sports C.
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From below, feel up over the top of the rear on the right hand side (about level with the filler plug on the other side) and find the head of a split pin. This should fit loosely in a hole to act as a vent. If it becomes covered in crud and forms a seal, then when the diff gets hot, air inside expands and forces oil out past the oil seals. So wiggle it around to make sure it is free to move and allow expanding air to escape. C.
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The 'jet just above the butterfly' is fed from the accelerator pump. It is intended to supply extra fuel just when you accelerate. What is happening is that the fuel in the pump system is expanding due to heat sink and the expanded fuel is being forced out of the nozzle. It is not something I have heard of before, but the pump (which went through a variety of modifications) sometimes has a tiny ball bearing to act as a valve. I have never fully understood the precise workings of this gubbins. Maybe the ball bearing is 'sticky' or missing. Note that the inlet manifold has a drain pipe (also with a valve) to drain any excess fueling. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it. Maybe others would. C
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Google up Metal Finishers and try to find someone who will do odd jobs. It is going to cost. You would probably be better sourcing some in decent nick unless you are seeking concours standard finish. They frequently come up on ebay. Add the following http://www.winsintltd.co.uk/ to your list of traders and have a word with Geoff to ask if he has any good ones ( he lists them at £12 each, Good Used http://www.winsintltd.co.uk/exterior-trim.html ). It is possible to do it yourself (and, I guess, without too much in the way of noxious gasses): http://www.frost.co.uk/search/?q=anodis , but again, at a price! C.
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This should help: http://www.canleyclassics.com/technical-archive/propshaft-problems/ C.
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GD and the Hot cam GA (GA178101E on) have the same specs. GD engines were fitted to GA cars from Comm. No. GA235,000 (late 196. C.
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You could try adding one shim to the rearmost bracket each side and removing one from the front each side. This will increase castor by 1 degree while leaving the camber unaffected. A sound investment would be to arrange for a full four wheel geometry check, including castor and camber, and all done with 150 lbs on each (front) seats for convertible. Sadly, few garages will be able to make the appropriate adjustments, although most will recheck it for no charge if you adjust it. If it's local, Jigsaw has both the equipment and the knowledge to deal with this. Don't weigh the rear down if the front wheels are having problems in getting the car going where you want it. Front: Toe 0 - 1/16" or 0 - 1.6mm or 0 - 0.275 degrees or 0 - 0 degrees 17 minutes. Camber 2 deg positive +/- 1 (or less - keep them even) Castor 4 degrees +/- 1 (or more, rather than less - even both sides) Rear: Toe As front. One shim adjusts by about 0.1" or 1/10" Camber 2 deg neg +/- 1 (many owners prefer more. Adjustable with spring spacer. 1" spacer reduces by about 3 degrees. C.
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My bet is on castor. I suspect the garage did merely toe, whether front, back or both. If they did full four wheel alignment they would have provided you with figures on a printout. Perhaps the clue is in "the garage who got a book out" (although reference to the correct data is needed). C.
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Plenty, because they drive on the flanks of the hex, not just on the corners. http://www.metrinch-tools.com/website/introductie.php?subnr=2 C.
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My old Herald manual (4.201) gives 1142.62 mm from ball joint pin to ball joint pin. What does your manual say? C.
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This question raises itself occasionally. My recollection is that the general consensus is that it doesn't make any real difference. C.
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Diff weight/dimensions at [Sorry, link no longer available]
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I believe he is saying that if there is no easy way out, it could go either way. This implies that with the seal correctly aligned (providing one easy way out) the excess should not go into the brake drum. However, I have still had some seepage towards the brake drum when the seal has been fitted correctly. It should only be a couple of pumps and any excess can be cleaned up without causing problems. I have also had incorrect fitting from a supplier (probably that mentioned above) and they refused to accept that they were wrong. C
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Unburnt fuel drawn in due to continued rotation after the engine is switched off and unable to evaporate from all the cylinders as the vales are closed? A bad habit with a bad starting car used to be to rev the engine before switching off in order to achieve this effect. Not good as it washes the bores. C.
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I believe it was originally paint as used on "Gold Belly" Ferguson tractors. looks as it should. is a bit orangey. Silver was used on later models "Another club" sells suitable paint. Air filter colour changed over the years - black/silver. I believe 1963 would be black. C.
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Motorway verges are littered with them ! If you can keep them on the car they serve a purpose, but they are normally plane glass. Ideally, you want convex glass for better field of view. Outlay isn't great and you could give one a try without any modification. IMHO the rectangular Spitfire style door mirrors suit the lines of a 13/60. Again, Convex glass. AND you need to make sure the quarter-light can open. Positioning is a little difficult. C.
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In the days when the police enforced the (ongoing) requirement to have vehicles lit when parked on the road at night, the dash lights were not required. That might have saved a small fraction of an Amp/hours for an overnight park. C.
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I have done back to back tests on my mildly modified twin carbed 1200 engine with the following dizzies: 40743, early 1200 40791, hot cam 1200 41127, 13/60 41449 (RKC5044), Spit 1500 ( also Dolomite 1300, 1500, 1500HL, 1500 TC (72-75), etc.) Frankly, I was not able to determine any real difference when driving my 'test' run, but I am happy with the 41449 (1500). John Kipping recommended the 41449 as 'suitable for all Heralds'. C
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NLA ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BOSC.....;hash=item19fb72c2e6 but perhaps http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LUCA.....;hash=item4198d0370d C.
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Costigan gives August 63 (GA130264) as the introduction of the new (non recessed) dash and states that the (early) Vitesse dash was the same, but with the padded top. As often, not totally reliable. The change date for the fascia light to the type fitted is also given as 1963 (body GAT 124349) and the metal column switch surrounds were changed to plastic in September 1963. C.
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Haynes - the real meaning: http://lrch.nl/sites/default/files/The%20REAL%20meaning%20of%20the%20Haynes%20instructions.pdf It's been about for years, but it still raises a smile. C.
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Not Orange. If your fan is seven blade and plastic it is probably not original - likely from a spitfire. I think the fan should be four blade, metal and yellow. Can't speak for all late models, though. 1200 and I think early 13/60 had gold coloured rocker covers: http://www.pioneer-automobiles.co.uk/Resources/library/triumph%20herald%201360%20engine2.gif Later, I think they went black. http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/uploads/cars/triumph/5702597.jpg Mine is silver, but that's my choice. A proper expert may turn up soon. C.
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Quote:t is it possible to raise the angle of the steering column so the wheel sits a bit higher? As Clive says, not easy, but it IS easy to effectively lengthen the steering column so the wheel sits a bit higher. There is an adjustment you can make under the dash. C