DanM
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Everything posted by DanM
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Also check the crankshaft pulley as the thrust washers can fall out allowing the crank to move forward too much which shows up as clutch mot disengaging properly. Check to see how much the crank pulley moves back and fore if more than a few thou this could be the problem. (happened to me on 2 cars and means an engine rebuild so I hope it's something else)
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You can use an early 3 syncro with d type overdrive or the later mk4 with 4 syncro which mainly came with a dtype but the very last had a jtype. You could also use the 1500 single rail but this would need a different clutch plate. You will also need the od propshaft and if you get a mk4 box and prop the rear flange needs swapping. (standard 1500 prop is the same length I think), mounting plate and switch (you could use the stick mounted mk4/1500 or get a column switch)
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I use the gmc205 same as the clutch, the real one had a slightly larger reservoir otherwise the same. My mk2 has been using this for 26 years with no problems, just check fluid level regularly
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GD would appear to be a 12/50 ess replacement engine from here [Sorry, link no longer available] still 1147cc though
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I did not change the studs on my mk2 spit when I put wires on with no issues so I doubt a later car would have had shortened studs. I hated the floppy clonky wires so replaced now with steel.
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I have happily run a 1500 engine with the clutch and flywheel from a 1300 Well actually a late 1147 but it's the same) with the holes drilled since 1994. works fine
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I've had a 1500 engine mounted to a 3 rail overdrive for about 20 years. As above I have the 1300 (well actually 1147 spit mk2 but it's the same) flywheel with the holes drilled to take the larger 1500 bolts, with a 1300 clutch and it works fine.
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The valances will all fit exactly the same. The wide rad is basically a copy of the Stanpart one fitted to the mk2 cars. My mk2 doesn't have the valances as they are knackered but they are the same, except the top profile of the carb side engine valance
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probably Royal blue
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they do stick out a bit too far on the roundtail cars as they are designed to finish approximately level with the mk4/1500 rear bumper. which is further back than the valance on early cars and I guess yours
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The 1147 mk2 spit also uses the large journal block with sleeves as per the mk3
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The 1147 mk2 spit also uses the large journal block with sleeves as per the mk3
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plus if it came from a midget I believe it will need the triumph sump pan. The 1500 has a small bulge to accommodate the longer stroke crank as well. I run a 1500 with a 1300 od gearbox in a mk2 spit using the 1300 flywheel. I still us the 4.11 diff and agree it is too low but will eventually return to 1147cc
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the jet and the flexi pipe is one unit. undo the flexi pipe from the float bowl then the jet will be held to the choke actuator by a screw or a clip, release whichever yours has and then the jet just drops down out of the carb
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from Haynes 1. Brown from control box 2. white switched feed to ignition oil light and ignition light via fuse box ( actually 3 white wires but I think they are joined) 3 white/red to starter solenoid The green light in the centre of the dash Do you mean the light for the indicators which would only flash if you use the indicators if the ignition light comes on and the starter turns over, sounds like the ignition switch is working ok. Check the power to the ignition coil ( white wire)
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It could also be that the rubber seals supplied these days are round foam and much thicker than the originals, Mine shut fine without the seals but do stick out with them in place
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1500 yards really isn't enough to test an od. The car needs to be in 3rd or 4th gear for od to work if inhibitors are working correctly and it can take a couple of seconds to kick in. Before going for a recon, check the gear oil level and the solenoid arm adjustment. Reversing should cause no probs as the od cannot be engaged in reverse (hence the inhibitor switches) difficult gear selection could well be the bushes on the remote being knackered
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The bonnet is basically the same bar the light mounting holes and the front grill is a bit different but would work. You would need to change the bonnet/bumber mounts on the chassis and change the front valance or cut holes for the bumper irons which bolt to the front chassis crossmember. Then you would of course need to obtain an early bumper, overriders and mounting irons(could make these) I would also then consider the rears, to make it look right. Basiacally the rears may not be difficult but you would need the mount points on the rear inner wings, just holes with captive nuts, plus I'm not sure how the rear overiders would fit with the mk3 reverse lights
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At a guess it may have been linked to a 1500 flywheel which had a larger diameter clutch
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you may find the mainshaft from that box is good in which case just swap the rest from your non od box. The mainshaft is the only difference. no point in buying new until you are sure that one is scrap.
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How long was the car out of use? If the tank is left without fuel for long periods a huge amount of corrosion and crud can accumulate and cause intermittant blockages. You may need to remove the tank and give it a good clean out, Marine clean is a good product for this.
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no the early 1147cc ones ie up to mk2 were positive earth
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Mine through it's thrusts In 94 the front main cap may be able to be repaired by brazing and a crank regrind with oversized thrust washers, not a difficult job for an engine firm, just depends how bad. my engine is still good after 20 years, though probably only 40000 miles or so, That work was done by HT Howard in Slough I think they are still around Will be going soon as I want to put the car back to original ie 1147cc
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the bonnet is not mounted at the front so needs to rest on something!!! see what happens when the bonnet tubes are attached to the chassis,
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Ive got the moss spacers between the spring and top plate on my car, been there since about 1990 with no problems so they are good but would probably raise yours too much. The ones that sit above the shock top plate a smaller