Van
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Everything posted by Van
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Hi Only just seen this message I have one from Moss/Triumphtune as well. If the spacers you are looking for are the little discs - no I don't have them either. I bought mine before xmas but not fitted it yet. Have you fitted yours? Van
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They are No. 10 UNC, also known as 10-24 UNC or 3/16" UNC. Expensive from a carb specialist but you can get bags of stainless socket head ones on eBay.
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Been thinking about one of these. Without having the car in front of me it looks like it must be a pig to get that top nut on as the stud is captive. Can the starter be fitted with everything on the car in situ? Van
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I generally fit the spring and shock before I fit the vertical link, and fit the steering arm before the hub/disc and caliper because these are heavy and the steering arm stops the vertical link turning as you try to fit them. Van
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I use the plastic ones and buy them from Vehicle Wiring Products (formerly Merv Plastics). Never had any problems except that if you put a bit of 1/4" rubber hose on and it turns out to be too short, you won't be able to get it off without damaging the filter.
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Thanks for the answers chaps. I had thought about blowing down the jets, will try that this weekend. Also I will give the relevant bits a clean, although the way moving the choke in and out a few times helps makes me point the finger at the jets more. Car ran a bit more consistently today and I was troubled more by big puddles than carbs. Van
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Hi All I have a strange problem where my car sometimes lacks power and sounds rough as if only one carb is working (GT6 Mk2 with twin HS6 carbs). The other day this started happening 8 1/2 miles into my 9 mile drive into work. The next day it happened 8 miles into the journey. I stopped for a few minutes, checked a few things and then it was fine. It also happened briefly on the way home. Over the weekend I checked that the pistons move up and down freely, there's oil in the dampers, jets are at the same height, butterflies opening together etc and everything seems fine. Had the problem again today, intermittently, worse on the way home. If it happens, sometimes I can pull the choke out enough to make the jets come down slightly and then it runs fine at lowish revs/throttle openings (30 in 4th or 40 in OD) but complains if I put my foot down. Other times I can make it go away for a while by pumping the choke in and out a few times (enough to raise and lower the jets). Other times it just goes away of its own accord. As everything seems to be OK I am thinking that there must be something lurking in one of the jets that is getting in the way (should not have come in through fuel as there is a filter between the pump and float chambers). Jets and needles have done 40,000 miles (no idea if this is a lot) but the way this has suddenly started coming and going does not seem to me like a wear related problem. Do other people go along with this diagnosis or have you experienced another cause of this? Cheers Van
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I have one strap to gearbox mount, at the front of the system where the downpipe joins the system. One strap off each side of the Y-piece to the diff front plate. One strap off the bracket on each tailpipe to the vertical bit of the boot floor that comes down to meet the rear valance. There are 2 more clamps which hold the rear silencers to the Y-piece. I don't have any straps off these. Van
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Generally the red light ones connect in line with the spark plug and take their power from the spark. That's why they're not very bright and you have to switch the engine off to disconnect the HT lead and connect them. The white ones need another power source, usually clip onto car battery although I did have a mains one years ago which was a pain. Now you're not drawing power from the spark so you can then have one with an inductive pickup which you clip over the HT lead. This is great because if you have a misfire you can hook up the timing light and move the pickup from lead to lead to see which one is not firing without switching the engine off. So I would go for one with white light, car battery power and inductive pickup. Personally I can't see the point in tacho or advance functions. I have a Gunsons one which cost about £30 new off eBay. I keep this in the car and it has been quite handy if I have a problem, eg in the recent bad weather. Van
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We are talking Rotoflex here aren't we? With lower wishbones and half shafts that were all the same length? I have excessive negative camber on the back of my GT6 Mk2 with a spring that is 18 years old and has done about 50,000 miles. Often see people talking about having the spring retempered/reconditioned, but who do you go to have it done? Van
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A colleague at work has a Mk3 with HIF38s (I think, but might be HIF4). I've not been able to have a good look as it's not his everyday car but from what he says it sounds like he has set-up problems. Might just be out of adjustment but I would be interested to see photos of anyone's installation or know what needles people have, what donor car/carb spec etc. Cheers Van
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Interesting to see this - I had this problem on my 2.5 PI and used to rock the car in gear until the starter would bite. Gradually it got worse and I changed the starter and found it was chewed. The problem then happened again years later and I changed starter again. Always knew it must be ring gear. Obviously the professional (who I don't use any more) who fitted the engine and gearbox during the previous ownership didn't notice! Thanks for sharing.
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There should be no need for washers between the top plate and the bushes, as the top plate has shaped recesses to take the bushes. I have Spax which were supplied with 4 washers so I left 2 of them out. The order of the parts is shock - washer - bush - top plate - bush - washer - nut - locknut
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Interesting stuff, thanks chaps and thanks M if you're reading. I would definitely like to give this a go but current predicament means I am more likely to replace the exhaust - I'm using the car every day and also living in a block of flats with the garages just across the garden from the block. Trying to keep antisocial work to a minimum so doing the buy-a-new-one thing a lot more than I used to.
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I have the Bell "wheelbarrow" stainless exhaust on my GT6, fitted in 1995. I sometimes think that over the years it has got louder, or maybe it's just that as I am getting older I want a less loud exhaust. Has anyone else found this? Wondering if the wadding inside the silencers can break up and get blown out? Cheers Van
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When the nut is tightened on the long bolt it closes the gaps in the chassis that the diff rear bushes go in. This makes it hard to get the diff back in with new bushes. If you get a long bit of studding you can thread it through the chassis here with a nut and a big washer in each of the gaps (washer on the outside in each case). Then wind the nuts away from eachother to open up the gaps a tad.
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Just seen a jag video on youtube where someone has added a comment saying you should add 2 stroke oil to the petrol to prevent the damage ethanol in the petrol can do to fuel pumps, carbs etc. I've never heard of this before. Has anyone else or can anyone elaborate?
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It could be leaking out of the master cylinder. Out of the front of the master cylinder, inside the big rubber boot where you can't see it, then down inside the car in front of the clutch pedal. Whether it's master or slave leaking it's probably because a seal is worn and only just sealing, then the cold weather is enough to make it shrink and let the fluid escape.
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Easy if you have an oval drill!
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The calipers are not all the same. Early calipers had 1/4" pad retaining pins. Later ones are smaller, 3/16" I think but not sure. Therefore there are 2 types of pad, with different holes to suit the different sized pins. The change happened around 1972 and affected other cars with these calipers as well. I have used Greenstuff pads for years and very pleased with them (daily driven GT6 with no servo). Early and late Greenstuff pads are both on sale at Rimmers at the moment.
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I got rid of the relays on the bulkhead and put relays and fuses on the passenger side A-panel under the dash but above the parcel shelf. This might be difficult if you have more trim here. I still have the original 3-fuse box, but as I have added relays and fuses for main and dip beam, I have re-wired the original side light fuse so it is in the live feed to the master light switch, protecting the master switch, dim-dip switch, and associated wiring, which was previously unfused. Additional fuses for: Main, dip, OD, fan, radio. Relays for: Main, dip, OD, fan, horn.
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Mine - front: between outrigger and body. Rear: see pic
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Try Robsport. I got mine there for my 2.5PI (a few years ago though) and I didn't need to exchange.
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I also have the 2-speed Pug radiator fan switch. The low speed is 84/79 and the high speed is 88/83. I have wired the fan relay into the lower temp side of the switch. In very hot weather the fan comes on with the temp gauge about 1/2 way up. In very cold weather the fan comes on with the temp gauge about 3/4 way up (the difference is because the temp gauge measures the temp at the top of the rad, and there is a bigger difference in temp across the rad in colder weather). I have re-wired the interior light switch in the dash so it is now an override switch for the fan. One of the advantages of a 2-speed switch is you have 2 attempts to find something that suits you! I did try using the higher temp side of the switch, but had fuel vapourisaion problems in hot weather.
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Previous owner of my car 2.5PI fitted an early Fiesta rad fan switch to my 2.5PI by drilling a hole in the top of the thermostat housing and fixing it in with a "cold weld" type compound. Worked very well but I don't know the temp range and I no longer have the car. My GT6 has a VW rad and a Peugeot fan switch 84/79 degC in the bottom. Thread is the same for these 2 makes - M22x1.5, same for a lot of modern cars, but will not fit directly anywhere in the Triumph. If you put the switch at the top you will want to go a few degrees hotter. I used this site to compare: http://partfinder.smpeurope.com/index.html?p=155&typeid=42&recordset=209&value=42