Freebird Posted August 19, 2006 Share Posted August 19, 2006 Hi allThe Rotoflex couplings on my Vitesse need replacing. I have read many times that new ones vary in quality and can have a short life, also that conversions using FWD CV joints have been successfull. What are the best rotoflexes to use? - Quinton Hazel spring to mind, but are they any good?Does anyone have any details on CV joint conversions? I have access to good breakers yards and machining facilities, but need to know what parts to use and what to modify etc.CheersGlen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5 Chris Posted August 19, 2006 Share Posted August 19, 2006 http://www.tengaston.plus.com/Vitds1.htm#top Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freebird Posted August 19, 2006 Author Share Posted August 19, 2006 Hats off to you cjm. Looks like a very sweet conversion. I can't see what the donor vehicles for the CV joint/driveshaft and the inner joint were though.Glen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5 Chris Posted August 19, 2006 Share Posted August 19, 2006 http://www.bowler.fslife.co.uk/CV_rotoflex_conversion.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5 Chris Posted August 19, 2006 Share Posted August 19, 2006 hi glen, hope this is of more help,glad to pass on help i recieved from forum,hope all works out for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted August 19, 2006 Share Posted August 19, 2006 post removed on request of author Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathan binnington Posted August 19, 2006 Share Posted August 19, 2006 dave, is it too late to ask for a pair of large flange adaptors? I expect to have to do a CV joint conversion in a year's time or so and would like to start collecting the partsfor GT6 327 diff pleasebinman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted August 19, 2006 Share Posted August 19, 2006 Thanks to CJM for posting the link already. Between my site and Joshes site and various threads on this forum most info is available.Mine was the 'prototype' and is still working fine after approx 10K miles, Joshes MK 2 version is the way to go though. Although it involves more machining and will cost a little more initially, I reckon it is well worth it.Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5 Chris Posted August 20, 2006 Share Posted August 20, 2006 that is very kind nick,although yourself and all other pioneers of this very useful developement deserve all thanks,outstanding work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freebird Posted August 20, 2006 Author Share Posted August 20, 2006 I've been looking at Josh's site and like what I see, but have a few questions if is around or if anyone else can help.MGF rear hubs are used, these cars have discs on the back, do our drums fit straight on? Is the wheel bolt pattern the same?Also the photo of the hub entitled "MGF" has a taper roller bearing fitted to it - that can't be right can it? It uses a doulble row ball bearing, also shown, and you can't have both.Are there any details of the upright machining? - eg: Position of the circlip groove from the flange face. Could the circlip be substituted by a step in the bore? For example machine to 67mm diameter to a depth leaving the original, smaller bore to locate the bearing.Yours inquisitivelyGlen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted August 20, 2006 Share Posted August 20, 2006 [quote by=SpitBang link=Blah.pl?b=hervit,m=1155982967,s=13 date=1156104146]Glen,The MGF bearing is a double row taper roller bearing, which can be broken into three pieces, one of which has remained on the hub you saw.Steve[/quote]If we are being pedantic (I am, sorry!) I think the MGF bearing is a double row, angular contact ball bearing pack. These used by most cars today as they have lower rolling friction than taper rollers. The result to the user is the same though - You fit it as one pre-assembled bearing - no more pratting around with shims - marvellous!I see no reason why you cannot use a stepped bore and one circlip rather than two circlips. In fact my Audi A6 has a step on the inside and no circlip at all, the reasoning presumably being that the step takes the cornering loads and the fit is enough to hold it in other conditions. Certainly it was very tight in the housing - had to REALLY belt it to get it out!Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 Arrrgh - wrong again! And photographic evidence. They must use both types.....As far as the step in the bore goes, if you are removing one of these bearings it will be to renew it, so using the inner race to push it out won't matter.Whichever route you like best I reckonNick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 if you use a step you wont be able to get the bearing race out, you could have a step that had caps in i suppose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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