Benjamin Swatton Posted August 3, 2021 Share Posted August 3, 2021 10 year old 20k front top VL balljoint's, seem OK on car with weight of VL hanging off and no slop, but once ball joint removed from VL they are unmovable by hand compared to some I removed from old VLS I bought. As the rubber boots on the VLs are starting to go I am toying with buying new but I see there's 2 types on sale - one with a grease nipple installed. So is the nipple to stop premature slop or is it to stop stiffening ball joints any idea? Which is best? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteStupps Posted August 3, 2021 Share Posted August 3, 2021 I replaced my top ball joints last spring and plumped for the greasable type from Canleys. They are also very stiff to move by hand when new, but the steering is smooth so don't think that's an issue at all. Personally I thought the greasable type looked better made than the alternatives, and being able to lubricate them properly can only extend their lifespan. Barely any miles covered yet though. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjamin Swatton Posted August 3, 2021 Author Share Posted August 3, 2021 My concern is they are being modified in UK to offset the stiffness from new, with somebody drilling a hole and screwing in a nipple and the risk of swarf ingress during this process?. Rimmer don't seem to stock them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjamin Swatton Posted August 3, 2021 Author Share Posted August 3, 2021 I took the rubber gaiter off one that is approx 10yrs 20k old and did same for one of indeterminate age that came with an OEM VL. You can see how little grease is in the modern ones for which the gaiter had just started split and it's stiff where as the other is smooth with a small amount of stiction. what you maybe able to see in second photo is ball diameter towards shank has reduction in diameter to allow grease to sit there and be drawn back into ball recess as ball moves, the drier joint ball seems to have less of a diameter reduction to allow this... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjamin Swatton Posted August 3, 2021 Author Share Posted August 3, 2021 I've ended up ordering a pair of greaseable balljoints and done with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteStupps Posted August 3, 2021 Share Posted August 3, 2021 3 hours ago, 13254 said: My concern is they are being modified in UK to offset the stiffness from new, with somebody drilling a hole and screwing in a nipple and the risk of swarf ingress during this process?. I certainly hope that isn't how they're made! Ignorance was bliss... now I'm worried about them 🤔 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky_spit Posted August 4, 2021 Share Posted August 4, 2021 Maybe give Dave Pearson at Canley's and ask him? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjamin Swatton Posted August 7, 2021 Author Share Posted August 7, 2021 New grease nipple balljoint's arrived - I removed seal to see how much grease was inside as you can see plenty, I can also see ball dia. is bigger than the other old types have. Still plenty stiff from new about same as those removed from car after 20k. Angular movement same at approx 20 deg either side of center 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjamin Swatton Posted August 7, 2021 Author Share Posted August 7, 2021 Applied grease gun and you could see it come past ball to seal side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteStupps Posted August 7, 2021 Share Posted August 7, 2021 Good stuff, I take you didn't see any swarf?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjamin Swatton Posted August 7, 2021 Author Share Posted August 7, 2021 No swarf -I think these are factory made with taller dome to accommodate nut on other side of nipple. I did notice 4 pumps of grease and some waggling and they free up somewhat so happy with these. I'm zinc priming and painting the housing before install as i find the raw steel rusts up super quick there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DVD3500 Posted August 9, 2021 Share Posted August 9, 2021 Those are from Canley correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjamin Swatton Posted August 10, 2021 Author Share Posted August 10, 2021 No Le man's triumph on ebay - formerly jigsaw racing, every where else was out of stock 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjamin Swatton Posted August 12, 2021 Author Share Posted August 12, 2021 Spotted an annoying quality issue with these - the bolt holes are bigger at 9.3mm than OEM 8.5mm which means the already generous clearance with bolt OD 8.0mm is now even greater so much so you would think unless there is sufficient clamp force then the joint could clunk around in the wishbone's. There is sufficient clearance for me to slide a thin wall aluminium tube between bolt and housing with still enough waggle clearance between all items! I am toying with getting a similar brass tube to take up clearance as aluminium is not a good idea here as bolt will end up corroded in solid and getting it out would be hell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjamin Swatton Posted August 12, 2021 Author Share Posted August 12, 2021 Just ordered 12inch Length of 9mm od 8mm I'd K&S brass tube on ebay , that should sort it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjamin Swatton Posted August 16, 2021 Author Share Posted August 16, 2021 Brass tube ideal It just occurred to me there is very good reason for the balls to be sufficiently stiff and that is so you can screw the nyloc nut past the nylon as otherwise turning the spanner would just turn the ball instead of the nut and you would be doomed... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted August 17, 2021 Share Posted August 17, 2021 Like the fix with the brass tube. you can easily tighten the nyloc by putting your foot on top wishbone to hold taper in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted August 17, 2021 Share Posted August 17, 2021 58 minutes ago, thescrapman said: Like the fix with the brass tube. you can easily tighten the nyloc by putting your foot on top wishbone to hold taper in place. In the past if I can't get the nyloc to tighten I've just stuck a jack under it (lower wishbone/upright) and loaded the suspension up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjamin Swatton Posted August 30, 2021 Author Share Posted August 30, 2021 However have found you can only fit one brass spacer as hole pitch is different between wishbone and ball joint -maybe that why they made bore too large! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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