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Unable to start rebuilt engine


paulsv8

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Hi all, I’ve installed a rebuilt engine due to two melted pistons!
I’ve just replaced the starter motor and battery as the old ones wouldn’t turn the engine over.
Good oil pressure on turn over, petrol at the carb, spark plugs firing, I’ve replaced spark plugs, contact points, rotor, leads, the old side entry distributor cap for a top entry cap, but it still will not fire!
I’m at a loss anybody know what I’m missing?
Or is there a mobile mechanic someone can recommend in the Lyndhurst area in Hampshire?
Cheers
Paul

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Hi Alex, I've lined the distributor in roughly the same position as when I removed it initially. I had a mate turn the engine over while I slowly moved the distributor clockwise and then anticlockwise trying to get it to fire. Nothing.

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Ok I'm ready to be shot down.....
Get cylinder 1 to firing stroke(possibly the other point at which its at the top from now,comes up twice for every revolution).
With the piston firing point rotor armature no1.
This is your start point,work around and start car......I hope ;D

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What do you mean by rebuilt engine, by who ?. Also I'd say that the fault is going to be within the camshaft timing, especially after you said about how you reinstalled the distributor.

If all else fails, just strip it down & check this.

Best of luck,
Sam.

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When you say the starter and battery wouldn't turn it over that starts to ring alarm bells, how fast is it turning over now
with the new battery and starter,A rebuilt engine will be a BIT tighter than a used one but should still turn over fairly rapidly, if not some thing is wrong, possibly tight bearings (crank not ground properly) tight pistons (not bored correctly)
even piston rings not gaped correctly can cause this, cam timing is also a contender,  if timing is set correctly to camshaft but not to crank position then it could be firing at bottom dead center with the valves closed, if this happens then the engine will relay struggle to turn over. I have seen all these faults on so called rebuilt engines, not saying that this is the
problem as may well have been built to a high standard but never the less things to watch for.

So remove king lead and plugs turn engine over, it should turn over quickly, if it doesn't  some thing serious wrong,
next check cam timing, turn engine by hand with thumb over number one spark plug hole plugs removed (should feel pressure as piston
moves to top) do two full revaluations like this, you should get one pressure cycle, if you don't then cam is defiantly
not right, if you do then cam could still be a bit out but should get some sort of firing from engine.
  Turn engine by hand again with thumb over number one spark plug hole until you fell pressure, then with something
softish like a pencil feel for the piston reaching TDC on this stroke, fit distributor so that the rotor arm is pointing just before the number one contact on the cap (note rotation of rotor arm) you can turn distributor when sat in engine to get this roughly right, fit leads accordingly 1,3,4,2 fit plugs and give it a go.
  It should sort of run, will need fine tuning and cam could still be a bit out but will at least give a basic starting point
and its always easier  to sort out problems once its running.
  If engine is very slow to turn over on key with plugs out talk your re-builder.
  of course it could be just a really bad earth on the engine, try earthing it with a jump lead.


   Hope this helps and is understandable. easier  to do than explain.    

   Regards  Derek

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Well guys, good news, the timing was 180 degrees out and now she’s finally running!
Just a couple of things to ask.  
What should be the normal running temp on the water gauge?
There’s a slight misfire, checked spark plugs covered in dry, black sooty deposits. Am I right in thinking its over-rich fuel mixture?
Finally I really need to get the car seen by a qualified mechanic to fine tune the timing, fuel mixture, and vacuum advance, extra.   Can anyone recommend someone in the Hampshire area?

Cheers
Paul

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