Doig Posted June 20, 2007 Share Posted June 20, 2007 How big a job is this?Do I need any special tools?Sorry for all the q's but I'm a bit busy this week and need to use the car (she's my only one) so I'm just wondering if I'd be better to get my mechanic to do it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted June 20, 2007 Share Posted June 20, 2007 front (1hr each) or rear (??? but looks a lot harder)CheersColin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted June 20, 2007 Share Posted June 20, 2007 Fronts, a hammer & a work bench.Backs, Specialist equipment to set up. Better off buying an exchange hub from a 2000 supplier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doig Posted June 20, 2007 Author Share Posted June 20, 2007 They're the front wheels,Looks like I'll try it myself.Have to try and find the oil seals though, got the bearings no problem, no seals in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crockett Posted June 20, 2007 Share Posted June 20, 2007 You could also use a proper bearing puller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted June 21, 2007 Share Posted June 21, 2007 What sort of grease should you pack the bearings with?I've got some Lithium grease, but some say you can use Moly grease and some say you can't.I didn't realise there was such a big cavity inside the hub. That's a lot of grease. Do you just fill this back up before you slide the hub back on.Also, after I'd scooped out all the grease I found the little notches which are perfect for placing a screwdriver to punch the bearings out. The only problem is that this has left very slight raised edge on the seating side. Had I best remove this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 I use LM grease.Don't over-pack the hub, you have to allow for heat expansion. If you put to much in you'll see it seeping out the cap and down the brake disk (Bad Karma!)Thats what the slots are for (a Screwdriver).If the raised area prevents the bearing seating flush and level then try cleaning it up a little. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 I have two manuals. One says pack the bearings and the hub. The other says pack the bearings as much as you can but leave the hub empty. Any opinions about this.Is it possible that the grease could migrate from the bearings to the hub if I leave it empty? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doig Posted June 23, 2007 Author Share Posted June 23, 2007 Stupid Q's time.Which way do the oil seals go around?The ones I'm replacing look original and completely different (Ie a metal ring with rubber inside.The new ones are completely rubber and have a spring clip type thing around the diameter visible from one side. Does this face the hub or intoward the stub axle.They are the right part as I brought it from a guy who really knows these cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted June 23, 2007 Share Posted June 23, 2007 Hi Doig. I feel better that someone else is doing this at the same time as me. I've done this on a different car but never on a 2000.I've just prepared the hubs ready to put them back on tomorrow. I'm in the same position as you. The original seals have the metal back to them and my new ones are just rubber. I haven't put the new seals on yet but I'm pretty certain that the side with the spring inside should face outwards towards the hub.I'll check first thing tomorrow and if not I'll get back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doig Posted June 23, 2007 Author Share Posted June 23, 2007 I hope you're right cause thats how I've put them in :)For me its the first time I've done it so at least I've got an excuse if it doesn't work ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted June 23, 2007 Share Posted June 23, 2007 Ok! Before I go out of my mind, will someone please tell me how I'm supposed to get the holes on the brake calipers and dust shield lined lined up so that I can get the bolt through both? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted June 23, 2007 Share Posted June 23, 2007 Quote:how I'm supposed to get the holes on the brake calipers and dust shield lined lined up <li>Carefully</li> <li>with difficulty</li> </ul> ;DTry taking the shield off again and see if any of it is proud and preventing correct location. I've had this before, try taking the brake pads out to give you some leeway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted June 23, 2007 Share Posted June 23, 2007 I tried without the pads. Even then it the fit is tight enough to warrant a lump hammer. This means the holes for the dust shield get pushed out of alignment as the calliper moves into place. The only easy way I can see would be to loosen all four bolts that attach the shock to the axle, or is that a really bad idea?Can't take any more today! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted June 23, 2007 Share Posted June 23, 2007 I really struggled with that a couple of weeks ago. In fact I ruined the thread on the longer bolt by trying to force it. It's a swine of a job.I gave the backplate a serious clean up, beburr and grease and eventually I got it lined up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted June 24, 2007 Share Posted June 24, 2007 Yes try loosening the other bolts, just to get a little bit of leeway. But as Rust Spot says, 'mind the threads'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doig Posted June 24, 2007 Author Share Posted June 24, 2007 Yeah its a bit of a bastard.I pushed the pads out to make it easier to replace them. An extra pair of hands is a great help when refitting the callipers. Get an extra light source and don't forget you can turn the steering wheel to get a better look.Mines all back together know but although I've topped up the brake fluid and the brakes are working fine the brake warning light is on - any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sorbington Posted June 24, 2007 Share Posted June 24, 2007 Doig, does yours have dual circuit brakes? if so you may need to recentralise the shuttle valve which detects uneven pressure in each circuit. It can move from its central position if you've been doing stuff on the brakes apparently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doig Posted June 24, 2007 Author Share Posted June 24, 2007 Excellent, but how do you recentralise the shuttle valve. Do I have to pull apart anything or is it pretty simple? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sorbington Posted June 24, 2007 Share Posted June 24, 2007 Hmm, only read about this in the handbook, mine is single circuit...The dual circuit system should be split front / rear.The book says:Fit a tube to the bleed nipple at the opposite end of the car to that which has just been bled.Open the bleed nippleSwitch on the ignition DO NOT START THE ENGINE- (the book shouts too!) The brake warning light will glow but the oil light will remain extinguished.Exert steady pressure on the brake pedal until the brake light dims and the oil light glows, a click should be felt through the pedal as the shuttle returns to mid position. Take care not to send it too far the other way...Tighten bleed nipple.I hope this helps - I assume that in refitting front brake pads (if I've got the right end of the stick) fluid has been pushed back through the system, so it may actually be a front brake nipple which you need to loosen to sort it. The book caters for bleeding, but in fitting pads to my mind you are doing the reverse of bleeding ie pushing fluid back to the master cylinder.Basically the shuttle switch sits between the front and rear systems - if fluid is lost from one system, it will make a contact and illiminate the warning light. Clearly, any movement of brake fluid in the system can affect it.Its also known as the PDWA pressure differential warning actuator! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doig Posted June 24, 2007 Author Share Posted June 24, 2007 Sounds good. I may just remove the warning light for its WOF (MOT) retest today though and fix it properly tonight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doig Posted June 25, 2007 Author Share Posted June 25, 2007 sorbs wrote:Switch on the ignition DO NOT START THE ENGINE- (the book shouts too!) The brake warning light will glow but the oil light will remain extinguished.Well that answers my Q about why my oil light isn't working.Gentlemen start your bleeding.By the way WOF (warrant of Fitness) was issued, passenger side wheel was borderline although it got through and I've just tightened it. Have to keep an eye on them in future.Wonder how Resto's getting on with his callipers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeks Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 Doig wrote:Well that answers my Q about why my oil light isn't working.Gentlemen start your bleeding. Ah! Maybe that's why mine isn't working very often ... I assumed it was as a result of fitting an oil pressure gauge and that the t-piece wasn't allowing it to work properly. I might have to mess around with me shuttle too! ... no MOTs needed in my neck of the woods, though :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doig Posted June 25, 2007 Author Share Posted June 25, 2007 I believe it was George Dubya who once said 'Mission Accomplished'It was the front brakes that needed bleeding. And steady pressure are the key words.I'm quite happy now, car is warrented & registered and I know understand both front wheel bearings and the brake light warning system.Glad I didn't use the mechanic now :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 Wahoo! I did as I mentioned and loosened the remaining three bolts on the bottom of the shock. Immediately I was able to position the calliper and dust shield holes and bolt everything back in place. Job done. I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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