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Fuel tank question ?


oldmetalhead82

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Dave, when my tank sprang a leak, it turned out that most of the bottom was rusty. A local radiator repair shop cut out the entire base, sandblasted the tank inside and out, welded in a new base and sloshed a sealant around to stop it rusting again. He also fitted a proper drain tap instead of the silly bung. That bung screws into a tube that sticks up an inch from the bottom of the tank, by the way, so it can't ever drain out all the accumulated crud. My new tap does  ;)

The repair wasn't memorably expensive, and meant I didn't have to fit another old tank and cross my fingers it wasn't almost rusted out too. Plus the little tap underneath the car is jolly useful when the lawnmower's out of petrol.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi Dave,
There's more to it than making sure you get a sender if you change tank/sender type.
Can't remember which way around it is, but one type of sender has something, I think a ballast resistor, behind the speedo/fuel gauge, that is required for the fuel gauge to read properly.

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If the car is the 1967 model noted in the OP's signature file, I would expect it to have the 10V stabilised gauge. This makes any swap easier as the car's original sender will fit into the tank from an earlier car intended for the 12V sender.
Going the other way isn't possible as the later tanks have a smaller opening for the sender, though the fixing holes are identical,

Cheers,
Bill.

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