Alternator conversion wiring query

[Pete Arnold]

At the risk of asking what may have already been answered in earlier posts . . .  

I am looking at an alternator conversion for my MKI Vitesse and have gathered plenty of info already.  In order to keep the "original look" I intend using an old RB340 voltage regulator (with the internals stripped out) as a connector box.

Several sources advise that terminals D & B should be wired together internally and so should terminals WL & F.  However terminals D & WL appear to be connected by the original in situ rivets and copper terminals.

This seems a bit puzzling so all comments and/or advice would be welcome!  :-/

[Davemate]

Pictures are very helpful !

These are the only pis I have, theses are my mk1 saloon but it should help you.

Stripped

If you look the big spade (second from the right) has been ground down to let a "small" fitting go onto it

The top can be put on and it will all look like it did

[Pete Lewis]

To reduce  cable run lengths , and loading issues,  its best to up the cable size to cope with the extra charge available and run direct from alt terminal to the starter solenoid,

Pete

[Pete Arnold]

Thanks for the two replies but perhaps I didn't make myself clear.  The guidance notes which I have read state:
1. Disconnect the Black wire from the terminal E and tape over its end. This disables the Control Box

2. Disconnect the browN/Green from terminal F. Disconnect the thin browN/Yellow wire from the terminal WL. Connect these two wires together. They control the ignition/charging indicator light.

3. Disconnect all remaining wires from: B (browN) and D (heavy browN/Yellow) [charging wire].
Connect all of these wires together with a suitable connector.

4. An effective connector can be made by stripping out the internals of an unused RB340 type regulator control box and soldering heavy gauge wire between terminals B and D and, separately between F and WL. This allows all the wires to be connected to their original terminals, thus retaining the original look.

My point is that surely the two connections described in 2 & 3 above have to be kept separate from each other?
But terminals D and WL appear to be joined, so how can they be used as described in 4?

Still confused! :-/

[rubberhead]

done mine as pete lewis said,no problems at all. :)

[Davemate]

912 wrote:

Thanks for the two replies but perhaps I didn't make myself clear.  The guidance notes which I have read state:
1. Disconnect the Black wire from the terminal E and tape over its end. This disables the Control Box

2. Disconnect the browN/Green from terminal F. Disconnect the thin browN/Yellow wire from the terminal WL. Connect these two wires together. They control the ignition/charging indicator light.

3. Disconnect all remaining wires from: B (browN) and D (heavy browN/Yellow) [charging wire] .
Connect all of these wires together with a suitable connector.

4. An effective connector can be made by stripping out the internals of an unused RB340 type regulator control box and soldering heavy gauge wire between terminals B and D and, separately between F and WL. This allows all the wires to be connected to their original terminals, thus retaining the original look.

My point is that surely the two connections described in 2 & 3 above have to be kept separate from each other?
But terminals D and WL appear to be joined, so how can they be used as described in 4?

Still confused! :-/

If you look at my picture you will see :-

1) black is on its own

2) brown/green (fat wire) --brown/yellow (thin wire) ----that's why you have to file the "big tab" down so it will take the small end, which means they are joined together.

3) brown (fat wire) and the brown/yellow(fat wire)  are joined together

If you look at my earlier picture you see the different "PLATES ARE INSULATED FROM EACH OTHER" (the brown non metal bits)so by doing the above you are joining the wires together that need joining in a way that if you ever want to go back to a dynamo and control box you can as the "ends" are left on and it looks original.

You should also do as others have said run a decent wire from the spare terminal on the alternator streight to the + on the battery

Hope that clears thing up  :)
If it doesn't then send me a "pm" with your number and I'll call you

[Pete Arnold]

Thanks Davemate,

I was unable to be sure of the wire colours in your pics but your explanation makes perfect sense.

You have confirmed that terminals WL and D (the latter being the one which is filed down) are connected to each other.  This means that the guidance notes I was using are wrong, so if I'd followed them I might have wrecked the alternator!!

And yes, I know about running a cable from alternator to starter solenoid.
Thanks again.

[Davemate]

On my post I got one thing wrong,I said :- "Brown/green(fat wire) it not ITS A THIN ONE)"


I'm not sure what all the labels are on the control box,I only went by wire colours

1). Black is no longer required--------it can go on its own,make sure it's not going to earth though.

2). Connect thin brown/yellow to thin brown/green ------as they are both small terminals this is why I filed one of the large terminals down on the board so the two could go together    

3). Connect heavy wires together, one is brown the other brown/yellow------ self explanatory

I hope I've not now re confused you  :-/

[Pete Arnold]

No problem Davemate,

There's only one Brown/Green wire anyway.
So size was of no importance as they say!!!!!! ;D