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Davemate

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This is for a 1500,
Is there a "parts required list" anywhere as i now want to start collecting parts.
I'll be useing "microsquirt" to run the ignition and squirty bit.
I have a fuel pump,and the inlet manifold is sorted(soon  ;) )
What size/car do I require for the throttle body,what size injectors and what sensors do I need ?

I can find sites that sell all of them,but no actual list of bits required.
If useing microsquirt I understand I do not need a EDIS thing but I will need coil drivers,just one or do I need 4 ?
or are they built in ?
It's things like that I need to know  :-/
Do I look for injectors from a 1.5 /1.6 engine or will any size do.
There is a throttle body and injectors from a 1.5 Honda civic on the bay
or would you use something else ?

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To answer the easy bits:

Throttle body should be as small as you can go for the size of the engine — one that is too big will cause you issues. Find one that mates up easily, has a throttle position sensor and a decent way to attach a throttle cable.

You need two coil drivers for running wasted spark on a 4 cylinder.

Injector sizing you need to use a calculator (google it) and be realistic about the amount of power you're likely to be producing.

Generally you can use all the stuff from an engine that is of a similar size and power.

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Get an alloy 48mm Rover throttle body, they're really nicely suited and good quality (made by Dellorto). Mine was �12.95 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-25-1-6-throttle-control-body-/270977805947?clk_rvr_id=370055362432&mfe=sidebar

For Ignition I used:

1 Megajolt lite Jr v4
Spitfire pulley with trigger wheel and bracket, off someone elses install, got it on ebay
Ford EDIS crank sensor and connector
Fiesta coilpack
New coilpack connector (from trigger wheels)
Coil pack bracket made from 2mm thick aluminium. Cut out on band saw and bent with vice and pliers, holes drilled for 4 mounting screws/nuts.
Lots of automotive wire inc 2 core shielded
Lots of that split conduit stuff instead of electrical tape
Classic Mini temperature sensor (from MPI cars), search for part #s GTR185 / ADU7161 / EAC3927 - it's a 5/8UNF thread and screws right into the water pump housing
Stanpart thermostat housing to move your old temp gauge sender to if you want to keep the temp gauge working
HT Lead set from an ebay seller with a long length of 8mm silicone HT lead, rubber boots and wierd locking clip connectors for 1st gen Ford coilpacks
HT lead spacers from ebay
Lots of automotive wire, crimp terminals and blade fuses
Vacuum takeoff, inserted into inlet manifold brake servo blanking bolt
Tap for vacuum takeoff
4mm silicone vacuum hose
27mm core plug to blank off distributor

brains frazzled tonight so will post the injection stuff I think I'll be needing (and what I have so far) when I get chance tomorrow

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Use one of the later coil packs so you don't have to specifically use the funny Ford clip connectors.

Practically any coil pack will work.

Best off finding a Bosch one or similar with a JT connector for the coil driver side of things and "normal" HT lead connectors.

A good pair of crimpers is a very big must — pay at least 25 quid or more! Those connections are vital to your car working.

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jcarruthers wrote:




Which are way too massive for a tiny 1.5?

Do they sell chokes?


Actually I was not being completly serious as they are a not insignifigant financial commitment.

You need to get your brain away from carburetors, engine management is a completly different animal.

Chokes are for carburetors they do'nt work on throttle bodies. Chokes are used to increase air speed over a jet not reduce airflow, which is a full throttle side effect.

And they do work on a 1.5 a mate has 40mm Weber Alpha's on a Spit.

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A choke or restrictor will still cause an effect with EFI.

It still won't work as well as a throttle body that is the right size— depends on software and the way the throttle cable pulls open the butterfly. Everything stops being linear.

Most certainly you have to put in workarounds with big throttle bodies.

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Was talking to a guy at the weekend who has Weber (Alpha system) TBs in his TR5.  He has 6 x 50mm (!!) throttle butterflies and was wondering why his throttle response is a bit sudden at the bottom end!  He'd already tried modding the linkage to slow the response, but had run out of room to extend it any further.  He'd also swapped the Weber ECU for an Emerald as the latter was cheaper than a couple of rolling road sessions at a Weber approved dealer (no-one else is allowed Weber mapping software!).

Had come from the PO with the full Weber Alpha system (Revington installed) but plenty of issues.

Nick

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Nick_Jones wrote:
Was talking to a guy at the weekend who has Weber (Alpha system) TBs in his TR5.  He has 6 x 50mm (!!) throttle butterflies and was wondering why his throttle response is a bit sudden at the bottom end!  He'd already tried modding the linkage to slow the response, but had run out of room to extend it any further.  He'd also swapped the Weber ECU for an Emerald as the latter was cheaper than a couple of rolling road sessions at a Weber approved dealer (no-one else is allowed Weber mapping software!).

Had come from the PO with the full Weber Alpha system (Revington installed) but plenty of issues.

Nick

Very suprised at Neil Revington sanctioning the fitment of 50's Neil knows dam well the Triumph 46's are too big for EFI use.
Coz thats what he told me before I used them.
Recon the guy insisted on 50's.

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Maybe so.  Bloke I was talking to was not the original purchaser of the system, just dealing with what came with car and trying to make it work properly.  Also suspect that it had been messed with (and messed up) after leaving Revington as I'm sure he'd have not let it out unless it was working properly and that is not how it was described!

Nick

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Ok will probably miss some things but here's what I think the list is so far for my Injection:

MS3 ECU with MS3X expansion card
MS3 wiring loom
MS3X wiring loom
Jimstim and JimstimX (these were good to bring back my memory of how to solder PCBs properly!)
A few 40A automotive relays (ie fuel pump)
Might need to add more blade fuse capacity by getting a bigger fuse box (currently have eight)
4 x injector 2-pin JT connectors (you can get less bulky ones for injectors as space there can be tight)
2 x 2-pin JT connector for PWM Idle valve and IAT sensor
1 x TPS sensor connector (can't remember what type as TB is with Tim, think its 3-pin JT?)
Shedloads of JT terminals I got a while ago off ebay
1 x Bosch PWM Idle valve from a Volvo part #0 280 140 516
Hose reducers to fit PWM idle hose to TB as they're different diameters
loads of rubber hose
15mm chrome plated copper pipe to replace heater through-pipe original Spitfire manifold had. Will get 50cm and cut to fit.
T piece with 15mm ends to connect hoses on rear end of aformentioned pipe
3.5mm black cotton braided vacuum hose (don't know how much i need yet, 2m?) as I don't like the look of silicone hose
1 x FTP Systems aluminium inlet manifold / plenum
1 x 48mm throttle body from a Rover 25 (fully opening version), TPS built in
1 x metre+ of 3 inch diameter air ducting
1 x universal K&N filter to attach to the above
2 x big jubilee clips for the above 2
1 x fuel tap with 8mm tails
1 x fuel filter (chrome/glass type with 8mm tails)
1 x Webcon WFP502 lifter fuel pump, runs at 2.5-4.5psi and feeds the high pressure pump / swirl pot. This is a very quiet electric pump.
1 x Mini exhaust mounting bobbin to secure above pump to inner rear wing
1 x Webcon WFP600 high pressure pump, built into its own swirl pot. has 8mm hose tails so...
2m of 8mm SAEJ30 R9 7.6mm fuel injection rubber hose
8 metres (excessive?) plastic nylon tubing for running fuel lines under the car. 8mm OD
4 x 8mm to 6mm barbed adapters for joining nylon hose to boot and engine bay fuel lines. Really unsure about these as they seem to leave me with a 4.5mm restriction
2m AN-6 / 8mm Teflon fuel injection hose with stainless steel overbraid
12" x AN-6  fuel rail (the ones Ross Machine Racing make) drilled with a 17/32" drill bit for the injector to sit in and around 8-9mm bit for the other hole
2 x 9/16 UNF to AN-6 adapters for fuel rail
1 x 9/16 UNF tap for fuel rail
1 x AN-6 Teflon straight fitting for fuel rail
1 x AN-6 Teflon 180 degree fitting for fuel rail
1 x Webcon WFR530 billet fuel regulator, 3 bar
1 x bicycle cable for throttle cable?
1 x Some way of getting a fuel tank vent as my locking cap doesnt seem to be vented
Loads of fuel hose clips
1 x spare Lucas distributor I've stripped down and removed the springs from. Just need the mechanical advance tacked up and...
1 x hall effect sensor, to provide a cam signal for sequential injection. Honeywell sensors, cost about �20.
4 x Bosch injectors from a Rover 216, # 0 280 150 749. These give enough flow at 3 bar for 120bhp at the flywheel.

cheers mate, you've just made me realise how much money I needlessly throw at this car  ;D

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