Pete Lewis Posted February 17, 2007 Share Posted February 17, 2007 this got lost in the system problems and re posted as it seemed to raise some interest, we pullled our saloon in by 2" to reduce the spread by1/2" so if doors are in at the top and proud at the bottom heres our method, it does not distort the wing panel as can occur with the torniquet /cargo strap but only works on a saloon with the B post lugs on top of the wing section. have also used seat belt anchor weld nuts but question if this is safe ?another way is devise plates/brackets from the door striker fixing Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 19, 2007 Author Share Posted September 19, 2007 Cliftyhanger, this is one of the ways we sorted our Vit6 but I cant read the blasted tape measure, and having pulled the panels in we now have a paint stress crack on the top of the wing fin next to the roof pillar,, just another job to do...I will try tonight to meassure across the flanges for you ,, Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 19, 2007 Author Share Posted September 19, 2007 if I moved the Tape forward to the top of verticle seal flange I get 46" Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted September 20, 2007 Share Posted September 20, 2007 I will investigate somewhere to attach my winch/puller thing! Might get messy though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bxbodger Posted September 20, 2007 Share Posted September 20, 2007 Mine had different spread either side, probably due to one of the under boot chassis extensions being rotten and one not- more sag to the nearside.Because of the lopsidedness of the spread I had to do a side at a time- I used ratcheting loading straps through the seatbelt mounts in the sills looped through the hood well frame with timber to spread the load around in there (not an option on a saloon though) and it worked well, despite the scarey amout of tension on the straps- I used them doubled up so when one was fit to burst i cracked on with the other. This also allowed me to release the tension bit by bit rather than in one bang.....Wind up-release tension-check door bottom-wind up again etc...I didn't bother working to a measurement, I just did it until the door bottoms were no longer standing proud of the wing.regarding using the seat belt mounts, if they don't stand up to this, then they're not worth a light anyway! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 20, 2007 Author Share Posted September 20, 2007 wish you had taken a picture of your method ,, some would bottle out at the effort/load required to pull the sides back in I originally used the belt fixings and tournequet to see just how much it would improve the built up car and it was easy to pull in but couldnt pull it enough to retain its new set. hence roof and glass off and the rather clumsy puller but it worked....peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 I think this thread should be titled;"Middle Swage Spread" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bxbodger Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 Quote:wish you had taken a picture of your method I can always do a photo-reconstruction! Id've probably done it your way if it hadn't been for more spread one side than the other, and i had to find someway of applying different force to each side. A much easier job in a ragtop than a saloon though. You're right, the tension on the straps felt phenomenal.... that's the reason I doubled them up and did it bit by bit: it is quite a scarey op! It was pleasing though to know that my seat belt mounts were good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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