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scotty71

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fitted a new clutch, but found it slips when you put your foot down. it is a Borg and beck clutch. it was meant to be the correct one for the 1360. when i was bolting the clutch plate on the fly wheel, it look like the diaphragm had move away a bit.
i have the clutch tool to setup the clutch lineament. so do it buy a tool clutch, or this there a fit?

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The clutch hydraulics are unlikely to be responsible for the clutch slip unless it's dumping fluid onto the clutch itself.  It may be the cause of difficulty getting 1st & Reverse. When you fitted the clutch did you fit the drive plate the correct way round?  They used to be marked front but it's 36 years since I fitted a Herald clutch!

Mark

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I agree with you, Mark, about hydraulics unlikely to be responsible for the clutch slip. 99.99% of the time, hydraulic problems mean that you cannot DISENGAGE the clutch. But I just went through replacement of a clutch master cylinder on my son's 1997 Toyota Celica GT because that cylinder was hanging up and not allowing the pedal to return (nor the clutch to fully re-engage after a shift). So perhaps anything is possible? Beyond that, I can't think of any way, short of very wrong parts somewhere, that a clutch -- bolted down to the flywheel -- would not be fully engaged?

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when the engine is cold, I can all the gears. but as it warms up it gets more difficult to get 1st and 2nd. to a point I need to stop select the gear, then pull away.
as for the clutch slip, the clutch is fitted the correct way around. on the clutch plate it states flywheel side, which it is. the problem seams to pop up when you try to accelerate up a hill or trying to over take it is trying to pull. but the engine note changes. this is why I think the clutch is slipping.
as for the slave cylinder question. I have dig out my old cylinder which came with the car. I will replace the seals in it and try what.

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Re the slip:

Do you have OD fitted?  If so, possibly the OD is slipping.

If no OD you need to check whether the clutch release arm is unloaded when you are off the pedal.  Easy with the tunnel cover off, less so with it on.  I'd expect you to be able to feel a bit of slack or free-play in it which goes when the pedal is pressed.  If not slack at any time then something is amiss.
Another thing I can think of is that the clutch assembly is deeper than it should be so the release bearing is in full contact with it all the time.  Or the clutch is no good, new or not.

The problems with release sound like it is not quite fully bled.  Is the slave cylinder fitted with the bleed nipple in the top hole?  Free play in the pedal due to wear in the hole at the top?

Nick

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Worst case scenario is it's dropped a thrust washer on the crank but that wouldn't make any difference hot or cold.  My hunch is it's the wrong clutch for that car, or you've only fitted part of the clutch.  The other thing is that the release arm might be fractured causing it to flex?

M.

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cheers for the reply's. the slave cylinder was the next thing to look at. I had the same idea, there could be at air lock in the pipe it self. being this problem seems to get worst as the engine get hotter.
I do have another slave cylinder to try. and even change the routing of the pipe away from the heat of the engine.
the answer to Rob's question, the complete setup. I do not like mixing old and new parts up when it comes to clutches.

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replaced the clutch slave cylinder and fluid, at the weekend. clutch fluid was like milk when it came out. so some how water has got into it.
with a rebuild slave and new fluid, we have a working clutch. just need to take the car out for drive.

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  • 2 weeks later...

job done . found the release bearing which i fitted,was pushing against a old bit of bearing. this bit of bearing,had been fitted before i had owned the car. so when i came to replace the clutch and bearing. i did just that. now we can get the car back on the road.   

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