Sam C Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 Sorry - another daft question:From searching through previous posts the consensus seems to be 20w 50 oil is right for the engine (GT6) but what is the significance / relevance of:- 'mineral based' oils; and- synthetic and part synthetic oils? The Haynes just recommends the weight and brand but doesn't seem to talk about this. Does it matter so long as it says '20w 50'? The one I've just found in my local shop says 'suitable for lawnmowers' which seems a bit worrying to me!Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 buy one that is branded and has a specification, sf, sg, sh, sj, sl whatever. Or an ACEA (may have the letter wrong!) that means it is a proper oil, not recycled low quality tat.re the numbers they mean viscosity. The first number when cold, the second when hot. You want an oil that is 50 when hot, though I have used 10/40 semisynthetics with no problems, and when I could find it a 5/50 fully synthetic. But if the oil is changed regularly, not used for racing etc a good mineral 20/50 will be fine. Halfords did a classic oil, I presume they still do.Clive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 John Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 Millers is good: http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8184Halfords too: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_catalogId_10151_storeId_10001_partNumber_537977_langId_-1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotoflex Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 I think there is also a consideration I've read of with lower sulfur content in modern oils, which may cause issues in older engines.It seems I saw a list & Castrol was on there as having a good formulation, so I made a mental note & that's what I buy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordleonusa Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 read up on it at http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.htmlL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billspit Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 I cannot think of a good reason to use synthetic over mineral oil in an old British car. I really don't think these cars will benefit from it, especially at the added cost. My car leaks enough already, I don't want something even slipperyer in the engine looking for a way out.I use Castrol 20/50 for the time being. You guys may can still get it with the zinc and phosporus in it.OK maybe one exception. Castrol is supposed to be making a 20/50 with the zinc that is a synthetic or semi-synthetic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferny Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 Depends on Milliage. If you have to change your oil 4+ times a year it gets annoying and isn't cheap. Synthetic lasts longer and when I know my engine doesn't leak (tracing the sources right now) that's what I'll be using.As for mineral - I use Duckhams, Silkoline or Castrol. Simply because I know these to be good. Last time I checked the Halfords stuff (a while ago now) it never had specs on the tin so I left it on the shelf. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotoflex Posted November 3, 2008 Share Posted November 3, 2008 Thanks Léon, Zinc and Phosphorus. I'll be mixing up the whole periodic table next and putting cadmium on french fries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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